[TR] The Tooth - 5-10-2009 5/10/2009

[mr.radon]

Trip: The Tooth - 5-10-2009

 

Date: 5/10/2009

 

Trip Report:

First alpine climb for my partner Matt...

 

Left work parking lot (car pool) a little after 6AM. Drove to upper Alpental parking lot. I had skins on AT skis, partner was in boots but was carrying downhill skis and snowshoes.

Saw WAC group behind us.

Tried to haul ass, long story short they caught us.

At the basin below the Tooth we passed the WAC's and to my horror saw a big group of Mounties ahead of us

This was my climbing partner's first alpine rock climbing trip ever, gym rat meets early PNW approach. Oh and I was the one that convinced a beginner skier to hump in downhill gear.

Stashed skis below notch. Made it to notch, waited for partner who arrived with the WAC group hot on his heels.

They had mentioned that two instructors humped in about an hour before to put up "FIXED LINES".

Arrived at base of climb. In horror I saw said fixed lines and instructors, plus the Mounties were there gearing up.

So there were the two of us surrounded by 18 WAC's and Mounties.

Switched to rock shoes and roped up. WAC's and Mounties were cool with allowing us to pass. Interesting 25' section of deep snow, had to kick step in rock shoes, not fun.

Final pitch finally decided to place pro for newbie to remove! (other then the bomber belay anchors I made for him to avoid the rap anchor CF)

Topped out, 3rd and 4th to reach summit. Enjoyed two Pilsner Urquell beers at the summit, watched weather move in. Were motivated to head out.

Rapping through 18 climbers was a nightmare.

Got to base just as rain started. By the time we descended from the notch it was raining hard. WAC's and Mounties were in for some fun.

Ski'd down basin while newbie learned what wet snow and a pack do to ones skiing ability. Met up with me and switched to snowshoes.

About one hour had passed, still no WAC's or Mounties had descended.

Back to car and warmth, waited for climbing buddy to hoof it out.

 

 

Gear Notes:

AT skis, rope, rappel device, beer, smile.

 

Approach Notes:

Approach: Got an early start, firm enough to walk on. Late start bring flotation or skis.

Exit: Soft wet snow. Skiing was pretty good.

Route: Its the Tooth...

Weather: Nice then rain.

[genepires]

Funny how you got the whole tooth to yourself in january and february but the hordes in may.

 

Sounds like a good time though. Good to hear that you made it down before the rain but the large groups got the alpine feel of weather.

[ScottP]

The north ridge descent is a faster, easier, and lonelier way to descend when the south route is as impacted as you decribe. The way around back to Pineapple Pass is very straightforward.

[ivan]

they said it couldn't be done!

[Alpinfox]

The north ridge descent is a faster, easier, and lonelier way to descend when the south route is as impacted as you decribe. The way around back to Pineapple Pass is very straightforward.

 

This time of year, I would expect that route to be pretty snowy and slow and not rock-shoe friendly.

 

 

[olyclimber]

Da Toof is a killer climb. Thanks for your report as to how Da Toof is doing. Its looken good.

[ScottP]

The north ridge descent is a faster, easier, and lonelier way to descend when the south route is as impacted as you decribe. The way around back to Pineapple Pass is very straightforward.

 

This time of year, I would expect that route to be pretty snowy and slow and not rock-shoe friendly.

 

 

My comment was for future reference.

That said, if you have the skill, forethought and some fortitude, it is less hassle than rapping through the crowds, even in May.

[LostCamKenny]

The north ridge descent is a faster, easier, and lonelier way to descend when the south route is as impacted as you decribe. The way around back to Pineapple Pass is very straightforward.

 

This time of year, I would expect that route to be pretty snowy and slow and not rock-shoe friendly.

 

 

My comment was for future reference.

That said, if you have the skill, forethought and some fortitude, it is less hassle than rapping through the crowds, even in May.

 

Buh duh duh...

[Demslam]

Thanks again for the climb and the attempt at backcountry skiing.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

 

18 people in two parties? W T F?

 

Good job!

 

[Pete_H]

What a clusterfuck. That type of beer you brought is good though.

[belayerslayer]

Good work! I never tire reading reports on the Tooth. what section of the climb were you kicking steps in your rock shoes?

[mr.radon]

Good work! I never tire reading reports on the Tooth. what section of the climb were you kicking steps in your rock shoes?

That short section before the last pitch to the summit.

 

I usually don't post Tooth TR's but the pictures turned out too cool, plus first alpine ascent for partner needs to be documented.

[TMO]

My and my brother did the Tooth 3 weeks ago... we left the parking lot at 5 am to try to beat the mounties to the route. It worked like a charm except we had to rappel right through the middle of the cluster fuck (I counted 5 people including myself at the second belay/rap). Need to learn that north side descent route! I was crackin' up at my bro doing that 3rd snow pitch in rock shoes.

 

Do an alpine start, bring boots, and ski out!!

 

 

[Mendizale]

May I ask which way you approached? Thanks...

[cman]

So there were the two of us surrounded by 18 WAC's and Mounties.

 

Great TR, i love the blow by blow drama.

[mr.radon]

May I ask which way you approached? Thanks...

 

Regular winter trailhead, upper Alpental parking lot. Stay on left side, just before Source Lake peel off uphill. Follow boot tracks and skin tracks to PineApple pass basin. From there, you can't miss the gully. Ski down uphill tracks. Nice chute a little to the left.

[kevino]

Anyone been up there recently? Wondering how the warm weather as affected the snow level? Thanks.