Anyone here ever been sponsored?

[Braydon]

Marc leclerc and I are hoping to climb Pumori next october but its kinda hard for a 15 and 16yo to get that kind of money in 6 months. Anyone have any firsthand advice/tips?

[davidk]

there are grants available specifically for young climbers (<25 yo) from the American Alpine Club (and possibly other sources too). I have no personal experience with these grants, but have a friend who got one for a big expedition. Some factors why she and her partner were awarded the grant: goals of new routes in a remote, largely undeveloped and seldom explored area, and extensive climbing resumes to back up their ambitions.

 

My advice: search around for grants if you feel you're qualified and/or work your ass off and save up the cash

[Dane]

Lots of resources available for a proven team. I got a AAC grant years ago for a Alaskan trip. All you have to do is ask. But it is generally a stipend and not close to the full amount you'd need to finance a trip.

A selection board picks the teams they think worthy.

 

Advice? You asked but it is going to be harsh. Get some more experience on something lower (and cheaper) than a 7000m Himalayian peak before you get you ass handed to you.

 

What you guys don't know about altitude sickness, snow conditions, glacier travel and weather is what will most likely get you into serious shit. Doesn't matter if you are 15 or 35. Assuming you have the technical skills, without that experience base and knowledge you had better have a good fucking baby sitter that can literally pick you up and haul your ass off the mountain if something goes wrong. Can you do that now for each other? Do you know when you should? Know how to put a med kit together and use it?

 

I say that with all due affection for you guys while having a buddy still sitting at 23,000 on GII and a five more buried forever in avalanches.

 

Climbing above 10K is serious stuff. Getting above 20K even more so. Next to Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua is one of the easiest mtns in the world. You can go to 20K' in tennis shoes on either or die there in a storm the next day.

 

Oct. is Fall and post monsoon. Do you know the difference between post and pre monsoon season? The temp differences?

 

http://www.mounteverest.net/story/DaughterofEverestnotinthemoodthisyearNov102004.shtml

 

http://www.mounteverest.net/story/PumoriwinterattempthaltedatcrevasseJan192005.shtml

 

My suggestion? Take 2 weeks off in winter and climb Libery or Ptarmigan Ridge or Robson if you want an adventure. Pick a date and just go do it. Just like on any mountain the weather will dictate just how far you get. Be a lot cheaper and you'd learn more. Plus you'd have the same opportunity to die in a glorious fashion close to home.

 

High altitude alpinism or just plain old alpinism is a serious, very dangerious and extremely complicated game. Takes some time and real effort to get even the smallest parts of it sorted out. The costs of a mistake are huge. Making that kind of a mistake might well change your life forever or simply end it.

 

[jmace]

Go to University pound all the teenagers and young college broads you can then afterwards go spend your free time sitting in a tent with the guys for 6 weeks telling stories about all that ass you had.

 

when you hit twenty you have all the time in the world to hit 20 and 30 yr old ass but you only get one shot at young hunnies at college/uni. Otherwise your that old guy pervin out in uni wondering why you spent your youth homo huddling some other dude.

 

Plus if you actually have money you can continue your pillaging of the ladies and climb...I mean its a no brainer!

[DirtyHarry]

And if it takes 8 years to finish college who cares?

[pink]

why don't u have a bake sale, the girl scouts make a killing every year and i bet people would support your healthy ambitions. u will enjoy the climb much more if u earn the money urself. i know that sounds corny but i always admired badass climbers that went out and got it all for themselves.

 

how many loonies do u need BTW?

[DirtyHarry]

i know that sounds corny but i always admired badass climbers that went out and got it all for themselves.

 

As opposed to all those filthy rich professional climbers who were just given everything?

[kevino]

And if it takes 8 years to finish college who cares?

 

Well I know Kat doesn't...

[Braydon]

Lots of resources available for a proven team. I got a AAC grant years ago for a Alaskan trip. All you have to do is ask. But it is generally a stipend and not close to the full amount you'd need to finance a trip.

A selection board picks the teams they think worthy.

 

Advice? You asked but it is going to be harsh. Get some more experience on something lower (and cheaper) than a 7000m Himalayian peak before you get you ass handed to you.

 

What you guys don't know about altitude sickness, snow conditions, glacier travel and weather is what will most likely get you into serious shit. Doesn't matter if you are 15 or 35. Assuming you have the technical skills, without that experience base and knowledge you had better have a good fucking baby sitter that can literally pick you up and haul your ass off the mountain if something goes wrong. Can you do that now for each other? Do you know when you should? Know how to put a med kit together and use it?

 

I say that with all due affection for you guys while having a buddy still sitting at 23,000 on GII and a five more buried forever in avalanches.

 

Climbing above 10K is serious stuff. Getting above 20K even more so. Next to Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua is one of the easiest mtns in the world. You can go to 20K' in tennis shoes on either or die there in a storm the next day.

 

Oct. is Fall and post monsoon. Do you know the difference between post and pre monsoon season? The temp differences?

 

http://www.mounteverest.net/story/DaughterofEverestnotinthemoodthisyearNov102004.shtml

 

http://www.mounteverest.net/story/PumoriwinterattempthaltedatcrevasseJan192005.shtml

 

My suggestion? Take 2 weeks off in winter and climb Libery or Ptarmigan Ridge or Robson if you want an adventure. Pick a date and just go do it. Just like on any mountain the weather will dictate just how far you get. Be a lot cheaper and you'd learn more. Plus you'd have the same opportunity to die in a glorious fashion close to home.

 

High altitude alpinism or just plain old alpinism is a serious, very dangerious and extremely complicated game. Takes some time and real effort to get even the smallest parts of it sorted out. The costs of a mistake are huge. Making that kind of a mistake might well change your life forever or simply end it.

 

 

Hey Dane,

 

Thanks for the reply. I just thought I could give you a little more information than my mom who, in all due respect, knows about as much about climbing as a pencil. Which I would agree is a thing I need to correct. Anyway, I thought now that I've been to altitude and done some technical stuff, a high altitude training course would be a good idea.

 

http://peakfreaks.com/everest_mountaineering_course.htm

 

Another thing I would like to clearify before I continue is that we won't be taking the east ridge (can you say avalanche?), but the south ridge. While it is a little more technical, it doesn't have the avalanche hazard that kills so many people.

 

I've climbed with Tim before and although I know all accidents in mountaineering are unavoidable, I wouldn't want to be on the mountain with anyone else. Rescuing someone from the South Summit of Everest isn't easy and I understand he's not just in it for the money. He has waiting lists for all his climbs and could easily make just as much money without taking me. Just put in the next person on the waiting list.

 

I understand pre and post monsoon, the problem with the south ridge of Pumori premonsoon is the amount of snow it gets. In my understanding, its much better to do it postmonsoon when there isn't as much laying around. This obviously doesn't completley eliminate the problem though; they had to turn around at Camp2 last year because of deep snow. Your right, this time of year the Himalayas are very, very cold. I'm planning on using alti mitts, millet boots, and a down suit on summit day. If thats not enough, well I can say I did all I could. Anyway, I just wanted to clearify a few things I'm sure my mom had trouble doing. I really appreciate your advice though and

[CollinWoods]

And if it takes 8 years to finish college who cares?

 

If it takes 8 years to finish high school who cares?

Edited March 13, 2009 by CollinWoods

[Dane]

Braydon,

The idea I was trying to get across...is "experience" will be invaluable keeping you and Marc alive. Up high no one can take care of you, but you, no matter how good the guide.

 

I thought now that I've been to altitude and done some technical stuff, a high altitude training course would be a good idea.

 

You are not being realistic if you think one trip on Rainier, and a walk up Aconcagua is "altitude" or a something like N face of Observation rock..technical.

 

When things go wrong...and they do, you'll need every little bit of the experience you do have (and it isn't enough right now) to get out of what ever mess you get into.

 

Aconcagua should have been an eye opener to you. There were climbers there from all over the world. Take the time to get hold of some of them, that have real altitude and technical experience and ask them what you should be doing right now with your time and money to actually become a competent alpinist that doesn't need a guide dragging them around.

 

You'll be hard pressed to find a full UIAA guide or guide service willing to take a 16 old with your specific experience level on Pumori.

 

I know it is not something you want to hear or believe but obviously something no one has bothered to clue you in on.

 

 

 

 

 

[StreetBoss]

To get the money you're looking for will have to be a first ascent or something far more difficult that Pumori. It would be hard to get a photographer to tag along.

 

Find something that drives you. Something that no matter what hurdle would be - that you are willing to overcome and move forward. It's amazing once you and your team commit to your innermost self what will happen. My best trips have nearly disintegrated at times but drive and will were stronger than the roadblocks.

 

I have to agree, if college take 7 to 9 years....so what. You can never get younger or a second chance.

 

Dream Big and GO FOR IT

 

[CollinWoods]

The average age for the big E is pretty old be cause you need experiance points. I dont know much about Pumori but you really should maybe get some more experiance but... Good luck to you and you quest for altitude! You might want to reed the book Within Reach: My Everest story by Mark Pfetzer. Its about a young climber who attempts Everest (didnt summit due to May 1996 disaster). He wrote letters to local businesss about his goal and asked for support and it worked. You really should read that book. The author did a lot altitude and tech-skills befor he attempted the E.

[Braydon]

Thanks Colin, I've read that book and thought it was really good. Mark climbed Huascaran, Catopoxi, and Aconcagua his first time before Everest from the north in 95 but turned around at 25,000ft from the khumbu cough. Next he climbed Ama Dablam the Fall before, and attepted Everest again from the south in 96 but turned around because of weather as you said. He summited Cho Oyu after that with Russell Brice but never returned for a 3rd attept on Everest...not sure why. I know he did a lot of altitude but he lived in New York I think and, other than the day waterfall ice climbing intro he did with the guide and the nols (backpacking) course, I'm not sure he did much technical stuff...at least he didn't write about it in the book.

[Braydon]

My bad, he was from Rhode Island and he also did a high angle rescue course and emt course...not a bad idea.

[Dane]

5.21.03: JESS ROSKELLEY BECOMES YOUNGEST AMERICAN TO SUMMIT WORLD'S TALLEST MOUNTAIN

 

Word has just been received via Iridium satellite phone that at 7:30 am on May 21 (NEPAL TIME), American climbing legend John Roskelley, 54, and his son Jess, a college student and mountain guide, reached the 29,035 foot summit of Mount Everest. Jess at 20 years old is now the youngest American to ever climb the mountain. Their final ascent day was very difficult with snow and heavy winds all the way up. They spent a short time on the summit and were returning to high camp at 27,500 feet when they called at 9:30 PDT this evening. The return to base camp will take a few days, depending on conditions, and they expect to leave the mountain and return to the U.S. by the end of the month.

 

Jess Roskelley:

Jess was born in Spokane, Washington in 1982. Throughout his years in junior high school and high school, he competed in a variety of sports, such as wrestling, cross-country, track and mountain biking. After graduating from Mt. Spokane High School in June 2001, Jess tested and was hired as an apprentice guide for Rainier Mountaineering, Incorporated, Lou Whittaker’s prestigious mountain guide service on Mt. Rainier. In September 2001, he continued his education at Spokane Community College, working to fulfill standard requirements. Jess worked another summer guiding on Mt. Rainier in 2002, before transferring this past year to the University of Montana to study Recreational Management. While the Generations on Everest expedition will be Jess' first Himalayan climb, he has proven his technical experience on 35 ascents of 14,410 Mt. Rainier. (plus climbing since childhood with one of the best in the world, his father)

 

Jess loves mountaineering, waterfall ice climbing and rock climbing and looks forward to each new experience. Over the past several years, he’s had several opportunities to join his dad, John Roskelley, adventuring throughout the Himalayas. In 1997, he trekked in Ladakh, northwest India, and summitted on 20,187-foot Stoke Kangri. In 1999, Jess assisted his dad on a trek into Gangor Punsuum base camp, located in north central Bhutan on the Tibet border. He thoroughly enjoys Asia–it’s people and customs–and plans to use his guiding experience to lead treks in the future.

 

 

[NoahT]

The more I get out, in a constant effort to work towards those "dream climbs," the more I realize our wee-cascades have all the adventure and challenge I really need to feel truely satisfied. Then the big opportunities present themselves, and you take 'em, with deserved confidence.

[DirtyHarry]

Jess worked another summer guiding on Mt. Rainier in 2002, before transferring this past year to the University of Montana to study Recreational Management.

 

pound all the teenagers and young college broads you can then afterwards go spend your free time sitting in a tent with the guys for 6 weeks telling stories about all that ass you had.

 

I think we're all on the same page here.

[Braydon]

So Dane how would you suggest I prepare if I tryed to become the youngest American to climb Everest?

Edited March 13, 2009 by Braydon

[mattp]

Good question, Braydon. Dane's looking out for your interest here, and I agree with him nearly fully -- but in fact younger climbers CAN do some amazing things. The #1 thing you should do is to get as much as possible experience on the biggest mountains you can find. Rainier is better training than Mt. Si, but McKinley would be better training than Rainier. I don't know exactly how high Pumori is, but people die at that altitude just because they happen to be there. It is serious.

[Braydon]

Thanks Matt. I was looking a little bit more for specifics though...

[Dane]

You have what, a bit less than 5 years, to beat Jess' time frame? I'd get hold of JR and Carlos and ask them. Since he is local I'd also make an effort to talk to Ed Viesturs, 206-780-0205, eviesturs@earthlink.net Check your email.

 

But 35 ascents of Rainier by half a dozen routes would teach you more about climbing than one guided ascent of Pumori and give you at the very least, twice the time in the mtns. Shit happens on big mtns.

 

I have known, iirc, nine Everest summiters by 3 or maybe 4 routes. None thought it easy and all used O2. Many thought Denali almost as hard and much colder. All were exceptional ice climbers. Rainier and waterfalls would be a good start.

 

You want to be the youngest...? Get on a '12 team and a '13 team and come in from the north.

 

 

[mkporwit]

BTW, as of 2007, the youngest American on Everest was Samantha Larson, age 18. And she bagged the 7 summits...

[genepires]

why try to beat some record? Why not just go out and climb for the personal experience? Climbing for fame (definately not fortune) is one of the stupidist things going.

 

While I don't know Jess at all, I bet that he wasn't racing for the record but getting on everest because he wanted to. He probably wasn't focusing on getting on the record books but got it as a nice after thought. Maybe I am wrong.

 

Record get beat frequently and makes the dangerous activity seem stupid. Do you want to be the guy who gets hurt trying to achieve fame or the guy living for personal fulfillment?

 

Dane is spot on with the experience needed. If your goal is the big mountains, then work your way up to them. Take our local hard man (once hard boy) Colin Haley. He spent the time getting after it locally, now taking it internationaly. Not saying you should follow his particular path but the progression is what is important. Seek mastery, not records (which will follow when you have mastery).

 

Last time I was in talkeetna, I went to the climbers memorial and nearly lost it when I saw that 2 teenagers (19 yo) died in the ruth gorge in the late 90's. It is one thing when some 50yo bites it but when a young-un dies doing this, well, it does hurt those who care a bit more.

 

I hope you get after it, smartly of course.

[kevbone]

i always admired badass climbers that went out and got it all for themselves.

 

 

 

Like Brad