Breaking News at Broughton's!

[JosephH]

Some 'police tape' on a bolt higher than the first one with a "to be chopped by the community" notice and a link to this thread marked on it with a Sharpie wouldn't be a bad idea. That or some form of marker that states the intention and has a link to here anyway.

[denalidave]

kevbone was just there and took some photos. we talked while he stalked the base. yes, we both need to get lives.

from the pix, it kinda looks like ya'll shoulda strung up some police tape too

 

the only thing these pix needs are some circles added to them and explanations on the back of them explaining what each one is

How about a chalk line body outline too?

[ivan]

i like the black spot more - maybe i watched too much disney as a kid though?

[Moof]

safeclimbing.org has a nice discussion of pulling Rawl 5 piece bolts. I've had mixed results. Longer bolts (non 2.25") are harder to pull the sleeve out of (hard to snag with a hook), and rusted in place ones are just a bear (another vote for sooner than later). Tools required here are: wrench, needlenose, nail, sleeve snagging hooking device (never found an effective widget for this so far), craw bar, funkness, and hammer.

 

Stud bolts, as jospeh states are either a whack-em deep (if the hole was deep enough) or whack back and forth to snap off, then whack-em deep affair.

 

Knowing what style of bolt these are would help greatly.

 

I'd be happy to help in the bolt pulling effort, as either a mediocre puller, or belay slave. My Saturday is open.

[letsroll]

I find it amazing that the "route" developers have not chimed in with thier thoughts. Think you would have to work hard to not know about this site.

 

THen again given what they have done.......

[JosephH]

safeclimbing.org has a nice discussion of pulling Rawl 5 piece bolts. I've had mixed results. Longer bolts (non 2.25") are harder to pull the sleeve out of (hard to snag with a hook)

 

It's easier to get, or make, a long eyebolt with the same thread as the 5pc, hook the sleeve out, and then funk the wedge out with the eyebolt. That's if you want to salvage the bolts - always a good idea with new ones and you have the time and tools - otherwise just unscrew them and call it good given these holes will be patched as opposed to bolt replacement.

 

Stud bolts, as jospeh states are either a whack-em deep (if the hole was deep enough) or whack back and forth to snap off, then whack-em deep affair.

 

Moof, with studs I'd have to say don't 'whack them deep' (the hole usually isn't deep enough) or 'whack them back and forth' (it breaks up the surrounding rock too badly) - just over-tighten the nut on them until they break off, then tap them back in the hole.

 

Edit: Oh, and you'll need a deep/long socket to over-tighten with a socket wrench. If they are studs, then I've got the sockets and Bill's breaker bar to contribute to the effort if needed.

Edited January 28, 2009 by JosephH

[RuMR]

shit...pull them out and drill a serious of two finger pockets up that mofo!!!

[RuMR]

I find it amazing that the "route" developers have not chimed in with thier thoughts. Think you would have to work hard to not know about this site.

 

THen again given what they have done.......

 

now that's a laugher...most climbers don't bother with cc.com

[letsroll]

Well when I started I was not much of a climber, might not be one still.

 

That aside these guys are clearly not climbers. But if you were going to do true duediligence (sP?) this is one of the places I would start. Might not be the end, but at least a start.

[JosephH]

...these guys are clearly not climbers...

 

I wouldn't go that far. They clearly hold some odd notions about what constitutes climbing, but I think the issue is not so much whether they 'are climbers' or even the fact that the ladder is in close proximity to existing aid or free lines - for me the issue is 'what' they were doing. It's the fact it didn't really require a rock at all to do it; a slab of concrete or a telephone pole would have worked equally well for their purposes.

[ols]

The 'dots' on the diagram are pretty much correct concerning the "Gym" and "Dracula" routes. There were also some older bolts above the lip from an earlier free climb attempt several years back by another party.

[kevbone]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I wish I was more photo savy to mark where the bolts are. I did not have a book reference where the existing climbs are. I do have to make a couple of points. first this bolt ladder sucks. Its is a squeeze job to the highest standard whether is stays or not will have to be addressed very soon. But....(the liberal side of me thinks) I find it hard to complain about bolts on a wall that is COMPLETELY littered with other bolts. I am not advocating that what they did was OK....but.....

 

If they would have just started 5 feet farther left.....but what they did makes the start of Dracula optional now. That will not do.

[Thrush]

The close-up shot should narrow down the selection of equipment (no deep socket) required to properly chop the "route".

[corvallisclimb]

yeah 30 min chop and pach job no more. no need to try to pull the cone like moof suggests wich is good but only for replacing 3/8 rawls with 1/2, not to mention a pain in the ass, and damn near impossible in the basalt. chop but dont patch then those guys can have a sick bat hook ladder, you may learn a little more about aid climbing that way.

[JosephH]

I find it hard to complain about bolts on a wall that is COMPLETELY littered with other bolts.

 

Hopefully we can presume those 'other bolts' were put there for the purpose of climbing rocks as opposed to climbing bolts. But, I'll agree that, once bolts are flying at any density, it gets hard to discrimminate between one line of bolts and another on any but a fairly tenuous ethical basis.

[ivan]

chop but dont patch then those guys can have a sick bat hook ladder, you may learn a little more about aid climbing that way.

i agree - hooking in holes iz kewl!

[JosephH]

chop but dont patch then those guys can have a sick bat hook ladder, you may learn a little more about aid climbing that way.

i agree - hooking in holes iz kewl!

 

I'd disagree, patch'em.

[hemp22]

So, looking at the full-size version of one of Kevbone's pics, you can see there's a locking leaver biner on what appears to be the highest bolt (the one a few feet above the little roof).

So, maybe these guys did at least stop after crimper talked to them...

full size pic link

 

 

[Joe_Poulton]

chop but dont patch then those guys can have a sick bat hook ladder, you may learn a little more about aid climbing that way.

i agree - hooking in holes iz kewl!

 

I'd disagree, patch'em.

 

Yeah...holes are just as bad as the bolts....

[EgoBoy]

Wow...I am really surprised those bolts are still there. The hangers alone would be worth the trip. Anyhow, I feel like I should add a twist. The upper section of this "route" seen some attempted free climbing. A couple individuals have managed to break left from Dracula and pull through the roof seen in the previous pics. However, the rounded upper section seems about as desperate as the top Frightnight. Anyhow, I have a little free time on Sat and some PC7 to boot...any takers?

[JosephH]

Anyhow, I feel like I should add a twist. The upper section of this "route" seen some attempted free climbing. A couple individuals have managed to break left from Dracula and pull through the roof seen in the previous pics.

 

I'd say the odds of the hangers being where you'd want them on lead is slim, but who knows. I'd say erase it and if someone wants to put up a variation go ahead and do that as a seperate deal. Sounds like it's been a TR project until now - maybe keep it that way until you know it goes...

[kevbone]

It appears the anchor that they were heading too is old. Not new.

[ivan]

chop but dont patch then those guys can have a sick bat hook ladder, you may learn a little more about aid climbing that way.

i agree - hooking in holes iz kewl!

 

I'd disagree, patch'em.

b/c you don't like aid - holes are essentially invisible and not going to ruin anyone's free-climbing experience - that salvages something good from the bad

[markd]

Wow...I am really surprised those bolts are still there. The hangers alone would be worth the trip. Anyhow, I feel like I should add a twist. The upper section of this "route" seen some attempted free climbing. A couple individuals have managed to break left from Dracula and pull through the roof seen in the previous pics. However, the rounded upper section seems about as desperate as the top Frightnight. Anyhow, I have a little free time on Sat and some PC7 to boot...any takers?

 

the upper bolts were put in around 2003 when a few of us were attempting bolted routes at broughton on gear. as far as i know no one has 'freed' that section on lead, however, i do remember hearing from them that it was v10 over the roof or some such hard number.

 

[JosephH]

I'd disagree, patch'em.

b/c you don't like aid - holes are essentially invisible and not going to ruin anyone's free-climbing experience - that salvages something good from the bad

 

Not at all, I actually do like aid. The issue for me is one of both principle and asthetics - principle as in they may have been climbers, but this wasn't climbing, so simply reset it; asthetics in that with the right hook it's trivial hooking and a line of holes, in this context and origin, has no asthetics. When I want to practice aid with any asthetics at all I go do one of the lines at the Butte, if I don't have time, or Beacon if I do...