kevbone Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 Who put the bolts in? You? Tom? or (other guy, cant remember his name)? Why is there a lone bolt 12 feet up from the roof? This bolt I am referring too is about 6 feet up and left of the bolt ladders last bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 but this wasn't climbing, Climbing means to ascend. So by the actual definition, this was climbing. Or do you mean…..YOU do not see it as climbing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 but this wasn't climbing, Climbing means to ascend. So by the actual definition, this was climbing. Or do you mean…..YOU do not see it as climbing? Music means making noise. So by the actual definition, pretty much anything is music... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 kevin, it wasn't me that put the bolts in, though i wouldn't be embarrassed if it was. the route the developers were going for was visionary and would have been and will be the hardest route at broughton. edit: i'm referring to the two upper bolts that were place for free climbing, not the bolt ladder just drilled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 Mark....I was not judging you. I could really care less. It’s just there are bolts high on this wall that are not in the Olson guide. I am sure they were placed on rappel. This route you are referring to is apparently unfinished. I never heard a peep from the community. Now someone shows up and adds more bolts to this littered wall and the community wont stand for it. Seems weird to me. But oh well……. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 but this wasn't climbing, Climbing means to ascend. So by the actual definition, this was climbing. Or do you mean…..YOU do not see it as climbing? Music means making noise. So by the actual definition, pretty much anything is music... Yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 the route the developers were going for was visionary and would have been and will be the hardest route at broughton. now i know your talking about "toms bolt ladder" your a sucker for sick aid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 (edited) Yes Very inclusive of you, then it's simply a matter of context and taste whether you appreciate it or not - well, there you have it. Drilling a 13 bolt ladder up a wall and clipping up it in isolation from any other free or aid climbing before, during, or after it - be it on concrete, wood, or rock - maybe climbing to you, it most assuredly is not to me. I'd say take it to the nearest telephone pole and spare some poor rock the embarassment. Edited January 29, 2009 by JosephH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 tyler, you're funny. i was actually talking about the two bolt tr that people have been working for years. the bolt ladder is not-so-sweet at all. how's your bolt ladder going down at smith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 Yes Very inclusive of you, then it's simply a matter of context and taste whether you appreciate it or not - well, there you have it. Music is a matter of taste. Calling a bolt ladder that you ascend not a climb is not being factual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 tyler, you're funny. i was actually talking about the two bolt tr that people have been working for years. the bolt ladder is not-so-sweet at all. how's your bolt ladder going down at smith hehe ya... the rivet ladder at smith is proud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 This is the essential philosophical divide. You may consider this use, or any use at all, as a valid reason for setting a drill to rock and littering it with steel, I do not. Quite the contrary, that "god put it all here for us to consume" attitude, along with the associated, "I'm too busy, tired, or indifferent to give a fuck" one, simply opens other vertical surfaces to unrestrained bolting going forward. I'm just me, what happens at Broughtons, in lieu of it's history, happens - I'm personally not going to exert much more energy over the place than commenting here - but let this stand and you folks with an affinity for the place will likely regret it, and I'd expect to not hear a peep if and when similar activities appear at Ozone. Bring this sort of thing to Beacon and it won't last long enough to even have a conversation about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtysloper Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 can we lie in wait for the rout setter to come back and then beat his a** with one of 111's stick clips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 "god put it all here for us to consume" Who thinks like this? and I'd expect to not hear a peep if and when similar activities appear at Ozone. Bring this sort of thing to Beacon and it won't last long enough to even have a conversation about it. I see 5 pages of people who care. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 "god put it all here for us to consume" Who thinks like this? People who think all forms of ascending are climbing and equally legitimate reasons for installing bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 So....now we are five pages deep. What is to be done with these new bolts? Anyone.....anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 Again, what's with the agonizing and equivocating? If there's ever been a no-brainer it's this one. Pull & patch. But it's for you folks who love the place to work that out for yourselves. My offer on the patching once things warm up stands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 Remove them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimper Posted January 29, 2009 Author Share Posted January 29, 2009 (edited) kevbone, you kill me. with 1 or 2 exceptions, it's otherwise been pretty unanimous that people want the bolts gone, and it's only a matter of how and when. so are you trolling us? Edited January 30, 2009 by crimper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moof Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Anyone want to join me Saturday or Sunday for a chop session? I'm happy to do the pulling if someone just wants to be a belay slave, but would be very thankful for someone with more bolt pulling experience than I have. I'll even drive. Ivan, don't you owe me a 5 hour belay? I figure the way to go is simply lead the thing to the last bolt, and start pulling and down aiding. Come warer drier stuff maybe Jospeh can do a little community outreach and show us his patching skills? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 can we lie in wait for the rout setter to come back and then beat his a** with one of 111's stick clips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djohnson Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 I agree that it was wrong to put a bolt ladder here. I'll add a couple completely conflicting thoughts for your consideration: 1. The damage is done, so why not let it be. I've heard people get extremely bent out of shape about a bolted crack at a Sport crag. Removing the bolts on the crack are not going to return a sport wall to the point where bolts are unnoticable. If someone feels that it is wrong to use bolts for a crack climb, then don't clip them. I agree that climbs that don't require bolts to climb should not be bolted, but once the damage is done, what's the point in chopping them. Perhaps the same goes here. I understand that not many will want to use these bolts, as it looks like aiding is the only use of them, but some may want to aid here? This is a horrible place for them, but again, the damage is done. 2. On the other hand, too many bolts on a wall can make the bolting more obvious and offend some folks. I can see where that could be the case with these bolts. Access to an area can be put at risk if unethical events occur, like too many bolts on a wall degrading the view for non-climbers who use the area. So, one might say it is the ethical duty of the climbing community to protect the crag by removing unnecesarry hardware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Ivan, don't you owe me a 5 hour belay? i do, but my folks are in town this weekend or else i'd be out at beacon (and skipping a climb there on the last day of the season to yank some tools dumbass route is a poor choice, imho - wait till sunday!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moof Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Dude, I wasn't being serious... Anything interesting planned for the last day at Beacon? Weather looks iffy. I was kind of just going to blow it off (turnabout is fair play!) for the last day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 1. The damage is done, so why not let it be. I've heard people get extremely bent out of shape about a bolted crack at a Sport crag. Removing the bolts on the crack are not going to return a sport wall to the point where bolts are unnoticable. Given the proximity to existing routes, they should go as soon as possible. Otherwise, it may be like herpes and it will spread fast. My earlier post was thinking that they had a clear blank line. The only question is this: is it better to yank em and patch immediately, or wait and patch it later. If you answer patch now, suppose these folks show up, ignorant of this discourse, and re-drill? At least if they see holes there, and put more bolts back in (to the same holes), by the 2nd time their stuff gets yanked, they will have gotten clued in if no one has seen them to discuss this. Hmmm, but Bryan did converse with them. Bryan, what do you think is the best course of action? Yank and patch or yank and patch later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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