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ols

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About ols

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    n00b
  • Birthday 12/01/1960

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    OR
  1. Dracula on gear

    Kev, Is it when you are lining up and entering the pod that you burn out? Are you pulling sideways on the arete hard enough? Catching the left arete is a tight sequence, and sticking with it as you pull into the pod is a rare treat. Have you got that entire sequence wired? The ending moves (up to and through the pod) are mostly about maintaining enough force once you know the sequence. The right foot placement is crucial (depending on your body build) in order to enter the pod. Do you use the mid-way rest stance on the route to cool down a bit before launching into the remainder?
  2. Broughton Question

    OK...here's the clue FFA = Dave S. Whenever you see Dave's name as the FFA you know it will not be easier, and it will likely be hard, and perhaps even underrated (though he won't agree with that). So now you have met the essence of Dave...before you actually have met him in person. Oh yea...Broughton = slick textured rock which adds to the dimension
  3. PRC 4th edition

    Portland Rock Climbs 4th edition is available in the Portland area, initially at Climb Max, Mtn Shop, OMC, but soon to be at most of the local stores. The book has a new comprehensive chapter on the Ozone wall and The Far Side thanks to the special efforts of Bill, Kevin, Jon, Bryan, Jim, and other climbing associates. For those who did not get the small pamphlet guide (year 2008) to the Ozone wall, this edition of PRC incorporates that legacy thanks to Kevin Evansen and associates. This guide has all the other mega climbing places of course, including Beacon, Broughton, Rocky Butte, etc, etc. Many new action photos, a special tribute to Jim Opdycke written by Jon Bell, various emblems such as an "umbrella" to direct you to the climbs that stay dry on a lightly rainy day. Additional photo diagrams of certain sections of the cliff, the Hardman List (now pegged at 33), Routes by Rating list, various other select lists such as "10 great trad routes under 5.10", etc. The Ozone chapter combines a strong selection of photo diagrams along with the digital illustrations used in the Evensen Ozone guide. And...a great short story by Dave Sowerby about a typical day at French's Dome. Aside from a few minor images that are a bit small...hope ya like it.
  4. Tower Rock

    Tower Rock near Randle, Washington Been there? Done it? Anybody got beta on it? I thought it was sum kind of 5.9R multi...
  5. where is this?

    Bingen Gap...The Syncline...Wankers? OK, what has it really been known as forever and a day? I heard McGown call it 'Wankers' (or sumthin like that) long ago, but since the memory glands are fadin'...but since Bob said it that is what I used in prc... p.s. lots of poison oak is an understatement...
  6. Farside or Dropzone

    Yes, the First Ascent info will be in the upcoming edition of PRC.
  7. First Ascents - how to

    How many people should be there? Just two people...you and the belayer because its a secret. The more people you tell the secret will get out. If yur site is composed of CRB basalt flows from eastern WA it is usually limited in usability. Columbia River Basalt is dense (5-6 hardness). Is the interior one single dark gray or blackish ground mass with no detectable crystals embedded with perhaps olivine? You can tell by simply cracking open a piece. Not easy to drill into. Better to climb on Andesitic formations...the nw Oregon standard.
  8. Beacon Rock: Go Climb!

    Chris is leading RR for certain in the pics. Perhaps a mere name change will work ...like UN-reasonable richard. Great to see that someone still leads up RR once in a while.
  9. Beacon Rock: Go Climb!

    Fixed gear on the ramp would help to solve the long solo run to the first piece of gear. Yet Nate has a point, the remainder of RR is still very bold for any .9 climber [slab-stars-easy-not].
  10. Beacon Rock: Go Climb!

    Iv & Farr... since Reasonable Richard is definitely "un-reasonable" why not jus add a bit more fixed protection. I was climbing well above the .9 level at the time so it got under-fixed. Perhaps that will bring yur hordes to the routes in question above thar.
  11. Right on, Scott! You must have used the GCC. Yah, it is a walk off descent after cruising through the deeeep chimney.
  12. The SE Spur of Washington is still one of Oregon's stellar alpine climbs, good rock, GARBAGE rock and all. It's a rare line that few will succeed at because of the difficulties, such as access and length of time to complete in a day. I have rapped off the route even after being hundreds of feet up the route because of approaching storm clouds, and have even rope-soloed the entire climb on another trip. It is also possible to exit over right below the summit about 200'+ and catch the north ridge a bit early to avoid some of the junk.
  13. Beacon Bolt Replacement

    Perhaps...at the top of Ten-a-cee stemming / Av's Route. People have been lowering off slings wrapped around detached blocks for a mighty long time.
  14. Mt Hood: Razorblade Pinnacle: Machete

    If you succeed in summiting on this isolated pinnacle do send us a PM for record keeping purposes... Cheers.
  15. This is sad to hear. We climbed with Don considerably many, many years ago. Met him again just last summer in the Gorge after all these years. He had recently finished his degree and had great objectives on the horizon with no indication that it would be otherwise. We have lost a valued friend. A good friendship lasts for a lifetime. My condolences to friends and family.
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