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Kev, Is it when you are lining up and entering the pod that you burn out? Are you pulling sideways on the arete hard enough? Catching the left arete is a tight sequence, and sticking with it as you pull into the pod is a rare treat. Have you got that entire sequence wired? The ending moves (up to and through the pod) are mostly about maintaining enough force once you know the sequence. The right foot placement is crucial (depending on your body build) in order to enter the pod. Do you use the mid-way rest stance on the route to cool down a bit before launching into the remainder?

OK...here's the clue FFA = Dave S. Whenever you see Dave's name as the FFA you know it will not be easier, and it will likely be hard, and perhaps even underrated (though he won't agree with that). So now you have met the essence of Dave...before you actually have met him in person. Oh yea...Broughton = slick textured rock which adds to the dimension

Portland Rock Climbs 4th edition is available in the Portland area, initially at Climb Max, Mtn Shop, OMC, but soon to be at most of the local stores. The book has a new comprehensive chapter on the Ozone wall and The Far Side thanks to the special efforts of Bill, Kevin, Jon, Bryan, Jim, and other climbing associates. For those who did not get the small pamphlet guide (year 2008) to the Ozone wall, this edition of PRC incorporates that legacy thanks to Kevin Evansen and associates. This guide has all the other mega climbing places of course, including Beacon, Broughton, Rocky Butte, etc, etc. Many new action photos, a special tribute to Jim Opdycke written by Jon Bell, various emblems such as an "umbrella" to direct you to the climbs that stay dry on a lightly rainy day. Additional photo diagrams of certain sections of the cliff, the Hardman List (now pegged at 33), Routes by Rating list, various other select lists such as "10 great trad routes under 5.10", etc. The Ozone chapter combines a strong selection of photo diagrams along with the digital illustrations used in the Evensen Ozone guide. And...a great short story by Dave Sowerby about a typical day at French's Dome. Aside from a few minor images that are a bit small...hope ya like it.

Tower Rock near Randle, Washington Been there? Done it? Anybody got beta on it? I thought it was sum kind of 5.9R multi...

Bingen Gap...The Syncline...Wankers? OK, what has it really been known as forever and a day? I heard McGown call it 'Wankers' (or sumthin like that) long ago, but since the memory glands are fadin'...but since Bob said it that is what I used in prc... p.s. lots of poison oak is an understatement...

Yes, the First Ascent info will be in the upcoming edition of PRC.

How many people should be there? Just two people...you and the belayer because its a secret. The more people you tell the secret will get out. If yur site is composed of CRB basalt flows from eastern WA it is usually limited in usability. Columbia River Basalt is dense (5-6 hardness). Is the interior one single dark gray or blackish ground mass with no detectable crystals embedded with perhaps olivine? You can tell by simply cracking open a piece. Not easy to drill into. Better to climb on Andesitic formations...the nw Oregon standard.

Chris is leading RR for certain in the pics. Perhaps a mere name change will work ...like UN-reasonable richard. Great to see that someone still leads up RR once in a while.

Fixed gear on the ramp would help to solve the long solo run to the first piece of gear. Yet Nate has a point, the remainder of RR is still very bold for any .9 climber [slab-stars-easy-not].

Iv & Farr... since Reasonable Richard is definitely "un-reasonable" why not jus add a bit more fixed protection. I was climbing well above the .9 level at the time so it got under-fixed. Perhaps that will bring yur hordes to the routes in question above thar.

Right on, Scott! You must have used the GCC. Yah, it is a walk off descent after cruising through the deeeep chimney.

The SE Spur of Washington is still one of Oregon's stellar alpine climbs, good rock, GARBAGE rock and all. It's a rare line that few will succeed at because of the difficulties, such as access and length of time to complete in a day. I have rapped off the route even after being hundreds of feet up the route because of approaching storm clouds, and have even rope-soloed the entire climb on another trip. It is also possible to exit over right below the summit about 200'+ and catch the north ridge a bit early to avoid some of the junk.

Perhaps...at the top of Ten-a-cee stemming / Av's Route. People have been lowering off slings wrapped around detached blocks for a mighty long time.

If you succeed in summiting on this isolated pinnacle do send us a PM for record keeping purposes... Cheers.

This is sad to hear. We climbed with Don considerably many, many years ago. Met him again just last summer in the Gorge after all these years. He had recently finished his degree and had great objectives on the horizon with no indication that it would be otherwise. We have lost a valued friend. A good friendship lasts for a lifetime. My condolences to friends and family.

The 'dots' on the diagram are pretty much correct concerning the "Gym" and "Dracula" routes. There were also some older bolts above the lip from an earlier free climb attempt several years back by another party.

On Wayne's premier test piece A4+...? Followed Wayne on this one...and personally repeated the lower portion (below the hook section) about a dozen times so it is not a once traveled nail route. A 5.13 climber establishing the next 5.15 free climb would seem legitimate enough. Been wondering if someone might have the energy to work out a free route up through there. Kev & Crimper have a point; a visual is helpful. There may be sufficient room to put a line or two near Hanging Tree and Back To The Gym now that the tree has fallen.

Excellent... What's the ice rating and grade?

Wind Mtn...the saga continues...You might want to join the Bad Rock Climbing Association first before venturing on this raw vertical terrain.If any nice rock exists, it is usually layered with considerable amounts of loose rock & moss that will keep you on edge. Not a likely place where tourists would ask, "How do you git them ropes up there?"1. Always wear a helmet.2. Never expect good rock.3. The boulderfield approach can cut loose some really BIG ones, so be careful.4. Avoid the place when it is windy.5. Avoid the place if you hesitate, whether in town, or on the approach, or on the climb.6. It is usually better to let someone else climb on the Wind, and just tell you about it later, risk free!Other than that, Wind Mtn. is sort of a feasible chunk of junk to climb on if you are accustomed to the typical nasty Gorge stuff...and I am really stretchin' it just trying to say that much.We climbed on Workman's Comp/Lost Wages for about 5 pitches (some full pitch and some half pitch leads) today, the hardest section might be about 5.8 stemming up out of the vertical walled cave. Much of the grind is 4th or easy 5th class climbing. One hour approach with some poison oak to contend with. Expect a bit of a challenge finding the initial ravine portion of the Workman's Comp route. Expect runout sections on all pitches where the leader does not fall. Set all belays under or behind an obstacle to protect your belayer. We expanded the height of the route today, also. It now continues another 50' to a small ledge up right from last years anchor. This line may eventually continue up to the huge roof. Gear rack: Minor rack of nuts and cams to 3". Some thin pitons and angle pins. Small cams needed especially on the new upper slice.Our line of ascent is not the Elder route (which is a long crack system that lands in the prominent central gully). We are slightly left of the Elder route directly on the main west face that has a very massive fir tree about 1/2 way up in a large ravine system.Route Specs:Route Name: Workman's Comp/Lost Wages. Seen less than 1/2 dozen ascents.The photos as shown (1-5): 1. Leading the 3rd pitch crux (5.5). 2. Sorting gear and hanging flags. 3. Prayer flags up and running. 4. Mike in the vertical walled entrance to the cave. 5. In the cave. 6. At the giant tree rappel.

Thick onion layers, indeed. The little black book at the County Tax Assessors office reads as just USA, nothing more. A phone call to Skamania County Title Co. and they will tell you it is CRGNSA office in Hood River, OR. Yet 330' southward from center may encompass the entire crag...

From a recent visit to Stevenson.... Here is a Skamania County Assessors map for the section on the Ozone. The link is: www.portlandrockclimbs.com/ozone/ozone.jpg I can keep it active at that link temporarily till you all can analyze the map. The map shows the state highway 'right of way' section. They have about 300'+ from center southward toward the cliff. Section 101, section 102 are USA on the Assessors map as per the county office, but it is administered by CRGNSA as per Skamania County Title company. Section 103 may also be the same, but someone can easily call the Skamania County Title company to verify again just to be certain your cards are all in the right pocket.

Here is a photo of Ainsworth Left...today! Looks like plenty of ice.

It is what it is...local crag info.

Several remaining copies available of Portland Rock Climbs 1993 & 2001 edition. For pricing info send email to: prc@portlandrockclimbs.com

Informative analysis on the south face aspect of a local crag. Access information, general history, directions, and more. Check it out: http://www."".com