AlpineK Posted January 2, 2009 Posted January 2, 2009 Think your decisions over Be really critical about choices both before you leave the house and at the base of the climb. It may be good, but don't be afraid to walk away from a climb. Quote
Bug Posted January 2, 2009 Posted January 2, 2009 Think your decisions over Be really critical about choices both before you leave the house and at the base of the climb. It may be good, but don't be afraid to walk away from a climb. Really good advice right now especially. Quote
Alex Posted January 2, 2009 Posted January 2, 2009 The main falls is still flowing - I don't know if it ever freezes up. Oh it definitely freezes, it's just been too warm the last week now for that to happen. Good on you for getting out and thanks for the pics! Quote
Bug Posted January 2, 2009 Posted January 2, 2009 I toproped a line at Franklin Falls on Monday. The main falls is still flowing - I don't know if it ever freezes up. We were almost all the way left on a solid bit. I don't have a photo of the line we climbed but it was WI 2. For a bunch of newbies, it was a good time. Setting up the top rope required a little work, but it was worth it. I went up there with two newbies on the 26th. It was pretty reasonable as far as avy danger went. I climbed the slab in the middle and set up a top rope over the steeper stuff between the slabs and the main falls. I looked at the stuff to the left but was too afraid to get any closer to the highway. The plow went by twice and dropped crud from 180 ft above. I keep getting errors trying to load the photo here. So the link is below. Franklin Falls pic Quote
sobo Posted January 2, 2009 Posted January 2, 2009 hell of a deal http://www.komonews.com/news/36957019.html Read the list of comments following this story. It's the same old tired "They should have to pay for their rescue" bullshit from the Barca-Lounger set again. When will the Great Unwashed ever get it? Quote
kevino Posted January 2, 2009 Posted January 2, 2009 So any word on ice in eastern washington? Forecast through the weekend looks great. Quote
AlpineMonkey Posted January 2, 2009 Author Posted January 2, 2009 Kevin, I'm going to try to get out both days, give me a call if you want to hook up. I'll be with Denise so you can be the third wheel. I've got some ideas. The forcast looks super. Quote
hotworkcoldplay Posted January 3, 2009 Posted January 3, 2009 First post, I felt a need to give an update on the Banks scene: Not much in yet as of the 31st. We did find some stuff at "pee-wees" south of devils punchbowl. punchbowl The cable Quote
Alex Posted January 3, 2009 Posted January 3, 2009 Thanks for the pics! Looks like it's cold enough, just not enough water. The recent snow should help a little bit with that. Quote
AlpineMonkey Posted January 3, 2009 Author Posted January 3, 2009 I'm posting this early so those of you still in search this weekend can go get some. Today we climbed the Sundance Kid in Moses Coulee. Approx 125 ft, WI5. This one goes on my list of classic climbs. Take the Jameson (sp?) road off of Highway 2 (approx 18 miles from Coulee City) and follow it for 4 miles. This will be the second climb you see up the road. The first one you see is Butch Casidy. The approach is flat and takes about 10 minutes. In fact there is an offical trail leading to the falls. Below the falls there is a sign by the Nature Conservancy calling it Dutch Henry Falls. Only one rope needed for the climb. Walk off the top to the left. No avy, no deathcikles, just plain fun. Enjoy! Quote
sobo Posted January 4, 2009 Posted January 4, 2009 Sweet route and beautiful pic, Craig. Did Kevin manage to make it out there with you? Quote
wayne Posted January 4, 2009 Posted January 4, 2009 Will someone please check out Snow Creek Wall? Quote
AlpineMonkey Posted January 4, 2009 Author Posted January 4, 2009 Nope, haven't heard from him, just my little sweetie and I. Checked out Dusty's In and Out supposedly by Dusty Lake today. Checked the place out in summer and didn't find any wet spots. Went back today and I couldn't even see any place where ice could be. On a side note, there are some routes in above ancient lakes that arent in the book. I did one of them several years ago. They looked pretty good right now. Quote
rat Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 dusty's in and out is on the north facing wall of the coulee west of the dusty lake --- approached from the road along babcock bench, 80' of wi3 on the fra, walk off to the left (no need to rap as noted in k&m's book of wet dreams). doesn't look like not much on scw. perhaps the mini-pineapple express will change that. the drip is still in --- heard it was tr'd a couple times. drury and the pencil are fat. Quote
jordansahls Posted January 6, 2009 Posted January 6, 2009 What do you all think the chances are that ice around Leavenworth will still be in this upcoming weekend? Weather looks like crap, but you never know. Quote
kevino Posted January 6, 2009 Posted January 6, 2009 well its suppose to cool back down by thursday night...never hurt to hope! Quote
sobo Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 KO- I'm s'posed to have a penis pass for this weekend. If it's cold enough, ya wanna grab SP and head to Moses Coulee and get on that Robert Redford climb that Craig and Denise just did? That stuff looked sweet. Quote
Peakpimp Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 I have this saturday and sunday off too and would love to head east in search of ice if anyone else is interested! Quote
AlpineMonkey Posted January 7, 2009 Author Posted January 7, 2009 It's suppose to be 56 degress here in Wenatchee today. Last night there was an exteremely warm wind that blew through the area, now most of the snow in the area is gone. Please don't anybody climb under any death icicles. Quote
sobo Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 Yeah, a Chinook blew through here (Tri-Cities) yesterday evening as well. Almost 60*F at 8 p.m, with winds at 40-45 mph. About knocked my rig off the causeway. Everything's gone... Quote
kevino Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 Yeah, it was 53 last night at 230 am in yakima. My morning: I-82 closed due to high winds, power went out at my house, hwy 10 closed due to flooding. Talk about bad luck. wanna go rock climbing paul? Quote
Jens Posted January 8, 2009 Posted January 8, 2009 It's suppose to be 56 degress here in Wenatchee today. Last night there was an exteremely warm wind that blew through the area, now most of the snow in the area is gone. Please don't anybody climb under any death icicles. Rock climbing will be the call for this weekend. I'll bet it will be shirtless climbing on south facing routes in the sun pretty much anywhere. The skiing and alpine will suck bad. Quote
Calder Posted January 8, 2009 Posted January 8, 2009 I was in Banks on Sunday and there were more Deathcicles above the punchbowl than in the photo above. They streched all the way across the route and two of em came down while we were there. It was cold as shit too. If you climbunder those things you are a crazyperson. Quote
sobo Posted January 9, 2009 Posted January 9, 2009 wanna go rock climbing paul? Actually, this w/e I'm taking down the Christmas tree and going back up on the roof to pull down the lights. I'm the last person to do so on the whole block. Dem lights don' look so purdy with all the snow gone... Quote
IceFrog Posted January 10, 2009 Posted January 10, 2009 (edited) Goat's Beard in Mazama on January 9, 2009. Still hanging in there after 2 warm days on heavy rain. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_nBLxvUAKInU/SWkVbJVdeYI/AAAAAAAAACQ/IUVS3MMFRxM/s1600-h/Goat2-Jan9-09.jpg http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nBLxvUAKInU/SWkVLP0bPrI/AAAAAAAAACI/HwYcPXa2XLo/s1600-h/Goat1-Jan9-09.jpg Drury Falls on the same day http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nBLxvUAKInU/SWkVun5tXoI/AAAAAAAAACY/PakbP1SYGKA/s1600-h/Drury1-9-09.jpg Edited January 10, 2009 by IceFrog Quote
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