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AlpineMonkey

Washington Ice Conditions

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It is hard to believe, but last year one week from now (on 11/28/07) was the opening day of my Washington Ice Climbing season. This year it hasen't got that cold yet, but the season is getting near and I'm getting jittery.

 

This is a call for all WA ice climbers who find ice this year to post it up. The more you know, the more I know, the more we all know and the more we all climb.

 

Cheers to a good season.

 

DSCN3839.JPG

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Thanksgiving last year I climbed ice in north bend and ellensburg on the same day. Heres to hoping for cold weather soon.

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Any condition reports out there? I drove through Lworth during my lunch break today and there is nada down low.

 

Any ellensburg people been on Umptanum yet? I'd be down for some after work ice cragging.

 

What about the Punchbowl at Banks?

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Found this today about an hour drive from Seattle.

Not climbable yet, but by Friday should be good to go if it doesn't get too much more snow dumped on it.

 

IMG_0993.jpg

 

Cheers.

Jimbo

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I got laid off from my seasonal job in redmond, so I went back to ellensburg to work and climb. Anyone want to help me send my project?

[img:left]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/DSCN0129.JPG[/img]

 

 

 

Here is an idea on height: the road is the bottom left whiteness

[img: left]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/DSCN0132.JPG[/img]

 

This is about 15 minutes from my house.

I'll be checking on other local areas in the next couple days.

Edited by kevino

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CascadeClimber, AlpineDave, and myself were all out at Black Ice this morning having a fun time on CYA and "Unnamed" to the right of CYA. That stuff is in and totally leadable. Pics later.

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worthleavin' public service announcement:

 

like alpinemonkey said, as of 12/16 there wasn't much straightup ice climbing in the icicle. plenty to do if you don't mind mixing it up. start to hubba hubba was formed but snowcovered above that. drury and the pencil are coming along but drury still had some holes and was looking wet. the drip was not close to touching. chandelier was thick. hidden lake climbs were coming along but appeared to have some holes as of 12/15.

 

approx. 4" of snow since this morning and still coming down. be prepared to dig if you're heading this way.

 

 

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Drove up entiat yesterday on another lunch break. Nothing in up there eaither. Tyee looks huge, but not quite touching down yet and it is on private property, in full view of many houses.

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CascadeClimber & I climbed the ice route above the black ice crag this morning. Great climbing! About 20 feet of mixed ground to reach the ice (M4/5 WI4). If you had a new #4 or #5 camalot you could protect the crux really well (under the roof). I was able to get some small cams, and a decent blade out left. If Alex's info is correct, I think this is the first time the climb has been led. It has obviously been TR'd before. We also climbed a second pitch, up and right at WI2.

 

Exit38.jpg

P1

 

Exit38_1.jpg

topping out

 

Exit38_2.jpg

p2

 

Then we went over to the ironhorse trailhead, and climbed Pax and Ken's route. Approach up the right side of the drainage in the forest. This route is easily visible from the off ramp.

 

Exit38_3.jpg

p1 WET!

 

Exit38_4.jpg

Nice pillar. Felt 4-

 

don't forget to start the day off right!

Exit38_b.jpg

 

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Here are a couple of Dave leading the first pitch of the route above the black ice crag. This is the route that's clearly visible from I-90 when it's in:

 

Exit38Ice3.jpg

 

Edit to add: I believe this is the route called 'CYA' in Washington Ice. For what it's worth. I think there is enough opportunity for gear to protect the mixed section and that it does not need to be bolted. There are several other potential lines there that could use some bolts, but the ice comes in so rarely...

 

Exit38Ice1.jpg

 

Exit38Ice2.jpg

Edited by CascadeClimber

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As suspected things are little at umptanum are thin. I climbed the drip, only got a handful of solid swings, rest were thin hooks.

 

DSCN0140.JPG

 

Heres the actual falls. I tried the right line but the ice was garbage, so I backed off.

 

DSCN0139.JPG

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I am going to be in the area and though my girlfriend and I would stop at umptanum and run some laps on the drip accross from the main flow. Two years ago that was pretty fat with some mixed on the right side that was fun. Looks like temps will be cold for the next couple of days. Wondering if anyone knows if this is growing or not?

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The snow was so deep and dumping (x38), I wasnt comfortable with parking and it wasnt getting plowed either. Maybe tomorrow

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Too bad you didn't hang around Wayne, Mercyful Fate his friend and I hit it up today in a toyota tracel! We got there about 10:30 or so and the road had been plowed. It was dumping, about 6in while we were there but it was fat! :tup:

 

Mercyful Fate pimpin the mixed start

P1020022.JPG

 

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I am going to be in the area and though my girlfriend and I would stop at umptanum and run some laps on the drip accross from the main flow. Two years ago that was pretty fat with some mixed on the right side that was fun. Looks like temps will be cold for the next couple of days. Wondering if anyone knows if this is growing or not?

Well those photos are from wednesday afternoon. The drip, as you can imagine is fed by groundwater, so until a melt-freeze cycle starts its going to grow slowly. The actually falls will hopefully be growing as the really cold temps continue.

 

oh, and if you do go, please be gentle with the ice. there is not a lot there and it would be really easy to take big swings and knock of lots of chunks of ice down to bare rock.

Edited by kevino

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