Rogers Corner and BOC bolts.

[DRep]

So I'm climbing at Index today and what do I encounter????

 

Bolts at the top of Rogers Corner before the start of BOC. This has been done recently, WTF, The tree is still great! Has anyone else seen this ? I've been noticing this BS quite a bit recently, like a bolted thin crack up by the inner walls. I guess we can attribute this to the recent popularity of this place in the past few years, but people need to show some respect for the history of the crag and the ethic of the place. What's next, an intermediate anchor before the traverse across Princely Ambitions? A bolt added to the runout on Zoom? This crap just pisses me off!

Edited September 8, 2008 by DRep

[kevbone]

chop chop chop

[el jefe]

at the smoke bluffs in squamish the anchors used to routinely be the nearest sturdy tree, but repeated rapping, etc is bad for the trees, so bolt anchors are pretty much ubiquitous there now. maybe the bolt anchors on boc and roger's corner are really a good thing? certainly good as far as the tree is concerned.

[Alex]

one vote for chop

[el jefe]

sorry, alex, but this is an important question, so only people with 3 digit IQs are going to get to vote this time.

[Sherri]

How is rapping from the tree any different than rapping from the bolts? The bolts are not changing the length or commitment of that route and, frankly, are more "natural"-looking than the ratty nest of multicolored slingage that used to be inflicted on that tree base.

[Rad]

I've met Alex and he does have a 3 digit IQ.

 

Still, to call for bolt chopping despite having a Bosch avatar suggests some kind of identity crisis. Maybe he's being possessed by Raindawg or Pope.

[archenemy]

Two votes for chop.

[RuMR]

How is rapping from the tree any different than rapping from the bolts? The bolts are not changing the length or commitment of that route and, frankly, are more "natural"-looking than the ratty nest of multicolored slingage that used to be inflicted on that tree base.

plus, you don't damage the tree itself...

[MarkMcJizzy]

These bolts are no big deal. Save your panties

[ScaredSilly]

In many high use areas folks are moving away from using trees as rap anchors and replacing them with bolted anchors. In most cases I see nothing wrong with it as was said it removes the tat slings from the picture and gives the trees a bit more space to breath (i.e. branches are not broken, roots are not exposed, etc). In a few places I have seen folks replace the tat with a long chain around the tree which is certainly not better in my book. My suggestion would be to leave them.

 

As for the other bolts, bolting next to cracks is for lame ass single digit IQ buffoons. Chop the fuckers (nicely)

 

[DRep]

How is rapping from the tree any different than rapping from the bolts? The bolts are not changing the length or commitment of that route and, frankly, are more "natural"-looking than the ratty nest of multicolored slingage that used to be inflicted on that tree base.

plus, you don't damage the tree itself...

 

Ok, for those who may need a refresher:

Rapping from the tree is natural, the tree is super solid (ie. not going anywhere anytime soon) whereas the bolted belay is just another needless scar.

 

OMG I almost forgot, save the trees .

[ericb]

How is rapping from the tree any different than rapping from the bolts? The bolts are not changing the length or commitment of that route and, frankly, are more "natural"-looking than the ratty nest of multicolored slingage that used to be inflicted on that tree base.

plus, you don't damage the tree itself...

 

Ok, for those who may need a refresher:

Rapping from the tree is natural, the tree is super solid (ie. not going anywhere anytime soon) whereas the bolted belay is just another needless scar.

 

OMG I almost forgot, save the trees .

 

A needless scar in an old rock quarry

 

This cannot be!

[kevbone]

As for the other bolts, bolting next to cracks is for lame ass single digit IQ buffoons. Chop the fuckers (nicely)

 

 

I agree....but then you would have to chop most of the sport routes at index.

[Raindawg]

I agree....but then you would have to chop most of the sport routes at index.

 

 

 

 

[backcountrydog]

those bolts are fine.

that tree has been butchered enough by cutting all but a single line of limbs up the thing, and now these are even starting to encroach on the climb. when they do fully get in the way of the climbing, they will get thinned. then that tree will be nothing but a single pole 5 ft from the crack and will most likely get completely "thinned". also, the wad of slings that have been slung to it in the past are more of an eye-sore than 2 fixe bolts w rap rings.

if you want to help out index, go scrub some moss, or do some trail work. that helps us all out a lot more than trying to make some huge issue out of an anchor on a climb.

 

 

[el jefe]

As for the other bolts, bolting next to cracks is for lame ass single digit IQ buffoons. Chop the fuckers (nicely)

 

 

I agree....but then you would have to chop most of the sport routes at index.

 

most of the sport routes at index aren't cracks.

[el jefe]

How is rapping from the tree any different than rapping from the bolts? The bolts are not changing the length or commitment of that route and, frankly, are more "natural"-looking than the ratty nest of multicolored slingage that used to be inflicted on that tree base.

plus, you don't damage the tree itself...

 

Ok, for those who may need a refresher:

Rapping from the tree is natural, the tree is super solid (ie. not going anywhere anytime soon) whereas the bolted belay is just another needless scar.

 

OMG I almost forgot, save the trees .

 

"rapping from the tree is natural"? is your rope natural? how about your slings, shoes, or harness? all natural fibers, too?

 

like i said, a 3 digit IQ should be a requirement for a discussion like this.

[kevbone]

As for the other bolts, bolting next to cracks is for lame ass single digit IQ buffoons. Chop the fuckers (nicely)

 

 

I agree....but then you would have to chop most of the sport routes at index.

 

most of the sport routes at index aren't cracks.

 

 

Ok...."most" is the wrong wording. How does "alot" work?

[TimL]

As for the other bolts, bolting next to cracks is for lame ass single digit IQ buffoons. Chop the fuckers (nicely)

 

 

I agree....but then you would have to chop most of the sport routes at index.

 

Sorry for matching your stupidity, but thats just a dumbass fucking statement.

[TimL]

those bolts are fine.

that tree has been butchered enough by cutting all but a single line of limbs up the thing, and now these are even starting to encroach on the climb. when they do fully get in the way of the climbing, they will get thinned. then that tree will be nothing but a single pole 5 ft from the crack and will most likely get completely "thinned". also, the wad of slings that have been slung to it in the past are more of an eye-sore than 2 fixe bolts w rap rings.

if you want to help out index, go scrub some moss, or do some trail work. that helps us all out a lot more than trying to make some huge issue out of an anchor on a climb.

 

 

I agree 100%. Those bolts are fine. Putting a bolt station next to the tree is no big deal. You also have to consider that nearly every route at Index has bolt stations next to perfectly protectable cracks. Great Northern Slab, GM, Godzilla...just to name of few. There are bolted anchors everywhere. This is not a big deal.

 

So I wonder why a big deal is being made about this station?

 

Hmmmmm....You guys smell something.......it's the thick scent of bullshit.

 

I do have issues with one or two routes at Index with bolts next to cracks that don't need to be there, but I'm not going to spray about it.

 

If anything, we should be buying a beer for the guys that have been cleaning up and taking care of Index. I did Bwana Dik (don't have my guide and don't know the spelling) and thought it was an amazing route. Big thanks to the folks who scrubbed it. I can't tell you how many times I've walked past it and never given it a glance.

Edited September 6, 2008 by TimL

[el jefe]

split hairs any way you want to, i agree with TimL about the thick scent of bullshit in a lot of these posts, yours included.

[kevbone]

I smell a troll.

[el jefe]

you smell your own butt.

[XXX]

How is rapping from the tree any different than rapping from the bolts? The bolts are not changing the length or commitment of that route and, frankly, are more "natural"-looking than the ratty nest of multicolored slingage that used to be inflicted on that tree base.

 

Agreed, leave the darn bolts. A new generation of climbers are coming and they are demanding bolts. The war will inevitably be lost my freinds.