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Posted

It's pretty presumptuous of you to assume that anyone who is top roping something you happen to feel like leading doesn't aspire to be a leader, or isn't *already* a leader, and just happens to be following their friend up a climb, or out for an easy day. Just because someone is seconding, or even thirding, Penny Lane doesn't mean they can't lead, and they could very well lead a hell of a lot harder than 5.9.

 

How is it not selfish behaviour to expect everyone to leap off climbs that they got to first and bow and scrape out of your way because "I'M A LEADER!"??

 

Finally, how is following not toproping? And how is it that you can't learn anything about climbing except by leading? Does your brain shut off when you're not leading or what?

 

 

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Posted

I'd just like to add that had you been with me at Lightning Dome, we would have had the entire area to ourlseves, and you wouldn't have had to wait for anything. And that would have been a good thing, since I was partnerless. He bailed on me after we had made phone arrangements to meet at the campground, and I had descended into the canyon and lost cell reception. Didn't learn the full extent of the bail until two days into the weekend when I came up for air out of the canyon and got the "three beeps" on my cell.

 

So, what I'm saying is at least you got to climb this weekend. Take solace in that, friend.

Posted

I totally agree.

 

That czech hottie who kept eyeballing my junk from that 11c she was styling totally wanted me, I could tell by the way she stared at my flexing glutes as I fully stemmed thru the crux, skipping all the reachy moves with true style. And when her boyfriend had to leave early because he sharted thru his bikini briefs...oh man, it was on...dirty, nasty (seriously, she needed a shower in the worst way)hot lovemaking in the sun, the kiteboarders down in the Sound appearing to time their jumps with her carnal thrusts as the clouds streamed around Garibaldi....whoa, what was I smoking at the bluffs?

Posted

Still, it does seem like leaders used to get more respect. In the climbing circles I grew up in (leavenworth, early '80s), if someone was top roping, and a leader walked up, the top ropers would immediately bail. Leaders were something everyone aspired to...and respected.

 

Now, who cares if you can lead? Just get a rope gun to take you and your friends up whatever you want to climb. Never mind that your lack of skill and selfish behavior plugs up a rare route for hours. Forget about learning the leading skills yourself the hard way. It's so much work climbing all those less glamorous routes to build up leading skills.

 

How judgemental. I have gone climbing from time to time and never lead anything. Maybe they are all 5.11 climbers who simply did not feel like leading or climbing anything hard?

Posted

I rarely see anyone on anything harder than 10b in the Bluffs with the exception of Crime of the Century (although when I do they're usually polishing the opening moves of some steep slab).

Posted

not to be a pill but Mark, does your wife lead everything she climbs? I know mine doesn't. She loves to get out climbing, but would much rather belay and follow or TR routes. After some rough experiences during her first few leads her headspace is very poor, though she's slowly working on it. Does that mean that She shouldn't have the opportunity to climb?

 

I guess one of the basic questions is, "Is leading more valuable than top roping?" such that everyone should only climb what they can lead?

Or does the individual who loves climbing but doesn't lead, have less right to a route than someone who will lead it?

 

Sieging climbs and not letting others in in BS though :tdown: I don't mind people stringing a TR, but at least be willing to pull it to let other parties climb.

 

 

 

Posted
do you close your eyes when you walk by Kangaroo Corner?
No, I stare up at it every time I walk by and in about 10 passes this summer I saw one person on it and they were done in about 10 minutes.
Posted (edited)

it's simple: soling supersedes leading and leading supersedes top roping and top roping supersedes lurking and lurking supersedes the "GREEN DRAGON"

 

 

 

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Edited by pink
Posted

even pansy ass golfers let the wanna bees play through. it's all about ethics, stop putting bomber anchors on top of every pitch and you won't have this problem, just sayin :grin:

Posted

no anchors on top of the climb in question. Gear. You must have missed the memo.

 

Hint: Quality, uncrowded climb of similar grade = Supernatural P1 ... oh yeah but you have to walk more than 5min to get there.

 

Complaining about crowds doing ANYTHING* in the Bluffs is so silly.

 

*acceptable complaints may or may not include:

-not picking up poop after or controlling dogs

-littering

-stealing

-other things that bug me...

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