shaoleung Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 (edited) For new routes or retrobolting old rusted stuff, what are some ideal bolts? I am looking at using 1/2" fixe 5-piece expansion bolts, but they're pricey. Is there an equivalent or superior bolt that is cheaper? Also, I haven't seen any resin bolting such as Petzl's Collinox . Is there any particular reason why these aren't used in Leavenworth? Edited August 3, 2008 by shaoleung Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Argus Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 Why 1/2" bolts? 3/8" should be more than strong enough in granite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 don't know what your plan on working on, but i hope to replace some bolts at midnight rock this fall. would love to team up and get'er done. oh yeah, and get hyped, cuz midnight opens in less than 48 hours! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 Are you talking retrobolting (i.e. adding new bolts), or just replacing the old bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaoleung Posted July 30, 2008 Author Share Posted July 30, 2008 Assuming I can get the old ones out clean, just replacing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 I think that is not called retrobolting. Just bolt replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 Please don't use the term, "retrobolting", for this. Good on ya for rebolting old, rusty, quarter-inch bolts with stainless steel 3/8" gear! By the way, making a wedge puller out of a Lost Arrow piton is a handy way to pull the old bolt. I was foiled until I got a new hacksaw blade at my local hardware store of a particular type: it's blue, and I think is has "Cobalt" in the name. It cut many times faster than my old blade. Just drill a 5/16" hole in the thick part of the piton, and cut in from the thin part. Think "tuning fork". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 This is what I use: Hilti KB3 bolts at MEC There are many other ones that can work. Note: you can find the same bolts at big box hardware stores, and might be tempted to get them as they are cheaper. I've been told that the more expensive ones are individually tested/checked and getting the hardware stores ones is more risky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaoleung Posted July 30, 2008 Author Share Posted July 30, 2008 Thanks for the clarification. It's been a while. I don't plan to add any bolts to existing routes... just replace the nasty ones. 3/8" is solid enough. 1/2" is overkill? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaoleung Posted July 30, 2008 Author Share Posted July 30, 2008 Thanks Rad. In the past, I've heard of the hardware store folks... I feel like if I'm going to bother rebolting, it is worth the extra cash to do it with the good stuff. I'll avoid the hardware store alts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Argus Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 Lots of good info here: http://safeclimbing.com/education.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 Thanks for the clarification. It's been a while. I don't plan to add any bolts to existing routes... just replace the nasty ones. 3/8" is solid enough. 1/2" is overkill? No such thing as "overkill" in climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 Stainless steel only. Stainless wedge anchors work good. SS ONLY. The Collinox would work but for an existing route, you'd have to close it till the epoxy cured. "Original Routesetter?" What kind of gym inspired bullshit is that weakshit terminology? WTF?!Please, speaking for myself only, do not ever say that about me unless I'm dead and you can't just piss easily on my grave. Greg Barnes has some professional tuning forks for sale cheap. link to link I'd jump on that quick. edited to add a smile, it sounded like yelling up there but wasn't, although I'm serious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 haha... routesetter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 Right on Sol, Midnite Rock needs some love. I would like to help clean the munge off a couple old routes up there. I will be home in a week or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 Right on Sol, Midnite Rock needs some love. I would like to help clean the munge off a couple old routes up there. I will be home in a week or so. sweet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 Better to "rediscover" some of the neglected classics in the Icicle than to overbolt some new contrived crap, as is what usually happens there. You should go climb, clean, and rebolt The Great Arch on Snow Creek Wall. That would be a worthy effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 DH, the terminology in the title is a misnomer. The OP is proposing to replace some old bolts on existing climbs, not "overbolt some new contrived crap" or add bolts to existing routes. Your project sounds like a good one, you've got skillz, when you gonna get on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaoleung Posted July 31, 2008 Author Share Posted July 31, 2008 (edited) Yes... I renamed the thread to better reflect the topic... rebolting rather than retro/FA rather than routesetter... geez... gotta get on the jargon... Just bought a tuning fork to get the 1/4" bolts out. My partner in crime and I are looking for a good deal on 3/8" or 1/2" stainless bolts and hangers. Edited July 31, 2008 by shaoleung Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 I'll leave that project to someone with more of a community service mentality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtyleaf Posted August 1, 2008 Share Posted August 1, 2008 I expected something like that from a guy like you Peter, always thinking of numero uno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cskidmore Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 Thanks for the clarification. It's been a while. I don't plan to add any bolts to existing routes... just replace the nasty ones. 3/8" is solid enough. 1/2" is overkill? No such thing as "overkill" in climbing. No such thing as overkill??? 13mm rope, steel gear, OSHA approved harnesses . . . . all sound like overkill for recreational climbing to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason_Martin Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 I did a bunch of rebolting in Red Rock Canyon. Greg Barnes at the ASCA donated all of the bolts. You should contact him about this. http://www.safeclimbing.org/ If they can't help, check out the Anchor Replacement Initiative: http://www.climbing.com/community/ari/ Those guys heard about some rebolting going on and wanted to help out. In other words, the resources are there and you probably won't have to spend any money at all. Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 thanks for the links jason! let's ressurect midnite, anybody been up there yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 Thanks for the clarification. It's been a while. I don't plan to add any bolts to existing routes... just replace the nasty ones. 3/8" is solid enough. 1/2" is overkill? No such thing as "overkill" in climbing. No such thing as overkill??? 13mm rope, steel gear, OSHA approved harnesses . . . . all sound like overkill for recreational climbing to me. Who uses 13mm ropes? Who uses steel biners or OSHA approved harnesses to rock climb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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