Bolt Replacing- Icicle

[shaoleung]

For new routes or retrobolting old rusted stuff, what are some ideal bolts?

 

I am looking at using 1/2" fixe 5-piece expansion bolts, but they're pricey. Is there an equivalent or superior bolt that is cheaper?

 

Also, I haven't seen any resin bolting such as Petzl's Collinox . Is there any particular reason why these aren't used in Leavenworth?

 

 

Edited August 3, 2008 by shaoleung

[Argus]

Why 1/2" bolts? 3/8" should be more than strong enough in granite.

[Sol]

don't know what your plan on working on, but i hope to replace some bolts at midnight rock this fall. would love to team up and get'er done.

 

oh yeah, and get hyped, cuz midnight opens in less than 48 hours!

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Are you talking retrobolting (i.e. adding new bolts), or just replacing the old bolts?

[shaoleung]

Assuming I can get the old ones out clean, just replacing.

[counterfeitfake]

I think that is not called retrobolting. Just bolt replacement.

[Otto]

Please don't use the term, "retrobolting", for this. Good on ya for rebolting old, rusty, quarter-inch bolts with stainless steel 3/8" gear!

 

By the way, making a wedge puller out of a Lost Arrow piton is a handy way to pull the old bolt. I was foiled until I got a new hacksaw blade at my local hardware store of a particular type: it's blue, and I think is has "Cobalt" in the name. It cut many times faster than my old blade. Just drill a 5/16" hole in the thick part of the piton, and cut in from the thin part. Think "tuning fork".

[Rad]

This is what I use:

 

Hilti KB3 bolts at MEC

 

There are many other ones that can work.

 

Note: you can find the same bolts at big box hardware stores, and might be tempted to get them as they are cheaper. I've been told that the more expensive ones are individually tested/checked and getting the hardware stores ones is more risky.

[shaoleung]

Thanks for the clarification. It's been a while. I don't plan to add any bolts to existing routes... just replace the nasty ones.

 

3/8" is solid enough. 1/2" is overkill?

[shaoleung]

Thanks Rad. In the past, I've heard of the hardware store folks... I feel like if I'm going to bother rebolting, it is worth the extra cash to do it with the good stuff. I'll avoid the hardware store alts.

[Argus]

Lots of good info here:

 

http://safeclimbing.com/education.htm

[kevbone]

Thanks for the clarification. It's been a while. I don't plan to add any bolts to existing routes... just replace the nasty ones.

 

3/8" is solid enough. 1/2" is overkill?

 

 

No such thing as "overkill" in climbing.

[billcoe]

Stainless steel only. Stainless wedge anchors work good. SS ONLY. The Collinox would work but for an existing route, you'd have to close it till the epoxy cured.

 

"Original Routesetter?" What kind of gym inspired bullshit is that weakshit terminology? WTF?!Please, speaking for myself only, do not ever say that about me unless I'm dead and you can't just piss easily on my grave.

 

Greg Barnes has some professional tuning forks for sale cheap. link to link I'd jump on that quick.

 

edited to add a smile, it sounded like yelling up there but wasn't, although I'm serious.

[marc_leclerc]

haha... routesetter?

[lancegranite]

Right on Sol, Midnite Rock needs some love.

I would like to help clean the munge off a couple old routes up there.

I will be home in a week or so.

[Sol]

Right on Sol, Midnite Rock needs some love.

I would like to help clean the munge off a couple old routes up there.

I will be home in a week or so.

 

sweet!

[DirtyHarry]

Better to "rediscover" some of the neglected classics in the Icicle than to overbolt some new contrived crap, as is what usually happens there. You should go climb, clean, and rebolt The Great Arch on Snow Creek Wall. That would be a worthy effort.

[Off_White]

DH, the terminology in the title is a misnomer. The OP is proposing to replace some old bolts on existing climbs, not "overbolt some new contrived crap" or add bolts to existing routes.

 

Your project sounds like a good one, you've got skillz, when you gonna get on it?

[shaoleung]

Yes... I renamed the thread to better reflect the topic... rebolting rather than retro/FA rather than routesetter... geez... gotta get on the jargon...

 

Just bought a tuning fork to get the 1/4" bolts out. My partner in crime and I are looking for a good deal on 3/8" or 1/2" stainless bolts and hangers.

 

 

Edited July 31, 2008 by shaoleung

[DirtyHarry]

I'll leave that project to someone with more of a community service mentality.

[Dirtyleaf]

I expected something like that from a guy like you Peter, always thinking of numero uno.

[cskidmore]

Thanks for the clarification. It's been a while. I don't plan to add any bolts to existing routes... just replace the nasty ones.

 

3/8" is solid enough. 1/2" is overkill?

 

 

No such thing as "overkill" in climbing.

 

 

No such thing as overkill??? 13mm rope, steel gear, OSHA approved harnesses . . . . all sound like overkill for recreational climbing to me.

 

 

[Jason_Martin]

I did a bunch of rebolting in Red Rock Canyon. Greg Barnes at the ASCA donated all of the bolts. You should contact him about this.

 

http://www.safeclimbing.org/

 

If they can't help, check out the Anchor Replacement Initiative:

 

http://www.climbing.com/community/ari/

 

Those guys heard about some rebolting going on and wanted to help out.

 

In other words, the resources are there and you probably won't have to spend any money at all.

 

Jason

[Sol]

thanks for the links jason!

 

let's ressurect midnite, anybody been up there yet?

[kevbone]

Thanks for the clarification. It's been a while. I don't plan to add any bolts to existing routes... just replace the nasty ones.

 

3/8" is solid enough. 1/2" is overkill?

 

 

No such thing as "overkill" in climbing.

 

 

No such thing as overkill??? 13mm rope, steel gear, OSHA approved harnesses . . . . all sound like overkill for recreational climbing to me.

 

 

Who uses 13mm ropes? Who uses steel biners or OSHA approved harnesses to rock climb?