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Bolt Replacing- Icicle


shaoleung

Should you contact the original routesetter before retrobolting?  

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  1. 1. Should you contact the original routesetter before retrobolting?

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For new routes or retrobolting old rusted stuff, what are some ideal bolts?

 

I am looking at using 1/2" fixe 5-piece expansion bolts, but they're pricey. Is there an equivalent or superior bolt that is cheaper?

 

Also, I haven't seen any resin bolting such as Petzl's Collinox . Is there any particular reason why these aren't used in Leavenworth?

 

 

Edited by shaoleung
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Please don't use the term, "retrobolting", for this. Good on ya for rebolting old, rusty, quarter-inch bolts with stainless steel 3/8" gear!

 

By the way, making a wedge puller out of a Lost Arrow piton is a handy way to pull the old bolt. I was foiled until I got a new hacksaw blade at my local hardware store of a particular type: it's blue, and I think is has "Cobalt" in the name. It cut many times faster than my old blade. Just drill a 5/16" hole in the thick part of the piton, and cut in from the thin part. Think "tuning fork".

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This is what I use:

 

Hilti KB3 bolts at MEC

 

There are many other ones that can work.

 

Note: you can find the same bolts at big box hardware stores, and might be tempted to get them as they are cheaper. I've been told that the more expensive ones are individually tested/checked and getting the hardware stores ones is more risky.

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Stainless steel only. Stainless wedge anchors work good. SS ONLY. The Collinox would work but for an existing route, you'd have to close it till the epoxy cured.

 

"Original Routesetter?" What kind of gym inspired bullshit is that weakshit terminology? WTF?!Please, speaking for myself only, do not ever say that about me unless I'm dead and you can't just piss easily on my grave. :lmao:

 

Greg Barnes has some professional tuning forks for sale cheap. link to link I'd jump on that quick.

 

edited to add a smile, it sounded like yelling up there but wasn't, although I'm serious.

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DH, the terminology in the title is a misnomer. The OP is proposing to replace some old bolts on existing climbs, not "overbolt some new contrived crap" or add bolts to existing routes.

 

Your project sounds like a good one, you've got skillz, when you gonna get on it?

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Yes... I renamed the thread to better reflect the topic... rebolting rather than retro/FA rather than routesetter... geez... gotta get on the jargon...

 

Just bought a tuning fork to get the 1/4" bolts out. My partner in crime and I are looking for a good deal on 3/8" or 1/2" stainless bolts and hangers.

 

 

Edited by shaoleung
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Thanks for the clarification. It's been a while. I don't plan to add any bolts to existing routes... just replace the nasty ones.

 

3/8" is solid enough. 1/2" is overkill?

 

 

No such thing as "overkill" in climbing.

 

 

No such thing as overkill??? 13mm rope, steel gear, OSHA approved harnesses . . . . all sound like overkill for recreational climbing to me.

 

 

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I did a bunch of rebolting in Red Rock Canyon. Greg Barnes at the ASCA donated all of the bolts. You should contact him about this.

 

http://www.safeclimbing.org/

 

If they can't help, check out the Anchor Replacement Initiative:

 

http://www.climbing.com/community/ari/

 

Those guys heard about some rebolting going on and wanted to help out.

 

In other words, the resources are there and you probably won't have to spend any money at all.

 

Jason

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Thanks for the clarification. It's been a while. I don't plan to add any bolts to existing routes... just replace the nasty ones.

 

3/8" is solid enough. 1/2" is overkill?

 

 

No such thing as "overkill" in climbing.

 

 

No such thing as overkill??? 13mm rope, steel gear, OSHA approved harnesses . . . . all sound like overkill for recreational climbing to me.

 

 

Who uses 13mm ropes? Who uses steel biners or OSHA approved harnesses to rock climb?

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