Solo? Have you or do you?

[mvs]

I got into soloing because I thought it would make me a better alpine climber (which I really wanted). I think it does help to steel the nerves. Finally though, I did one that was "too big." And it was kind of miserable. I kept thinking how much more fun it would be if I had a partner. Just like Mat said, "why am I putting myself in this situation?"

 

[JosephH]

I should also say I'm not and never was into 'sketching' at all when soloing - I'm either in total control or I'm not soloing, period. I've never had a need to push my emotional envolope that way - I personally like my fear. And now that I'm an old guy I have nothing in particular along those lines that I feel the need to 'conquer' or 'prove to myself'.

 

For me it's simply about experiencing a level of confidence and assurance that doesn't exist with a rope on. I enjoy that, but I've never 'needed' or been addicted to soloing though I do think that it, like many other things in life, has a reasonable addiction potential. But, despite being Irish, it's never really had that big a hook into me.

[Dane]

A quick tally shows there are :

retired soloists

soloist who try not to solo

solo back packers

age dependant soloists

soloists who don't climb above 5.7

soloist who climb best when depressed

old soloists

middle aged soloists

young soloists

soloists that actually enjoy it

 

I like soloing simply because I've found no simplier way to enjoy climbing. Yes, you have to concentrate more as there is generally no "overs". But how fast you can cover technical ground can be amazing. The satisfaction is it's own reward. An out of control solo doesn't leave any sense of accomplishment past living. Not much of an accomplishment to intentionally risk your life and live.

 

I started soloing to speed up my alpine climbing as well. But it didn't take long for soloing to become it's own venue for me. Rock, ice and alpine all shared in the results. Nothing really "hard" by today's standards but fun none the less.

 

FWIW I actually plan my solos, just like I would do a climb with a partner. I check and sort gear very carefully, scope the route, get any beta I can find and do whatever current tests are required to see if my head is screwed on straight. I don't solo at my limit (no matter what that may be at the moment) but generally, at the very least, one full grade down at where I can comfortably lead with pro. More if I haven't been out for awhile by myself.

 

I see in this thread and from a few searches that there are some here that do continue to solo. It would be interesting to hear from some of them and the kinds of climbs they are doing. Numbers aren't important..but cracks, slabs, ice, big walls, alpine..what ever you are into.

 

I've done solos that are pure headpoints after mutiple pervious laps. Done solos that were on sight and big walls that I initially had a hard time getting my mind around. All have been good experiences. And although I spend much more time on a rope than off I am excited about the next time out on my own!

[Sherri]

I've done some roped-soloing trips lately--as in, planned to climb by myself, rather than being forced to do it because someone bailed--and I have observed an interesting phenomena on these trips.

 

Not only do they take on a more personal rhythm than the usual climbing trip, which is primarily shaped and driven by the partner dynamic(where do we meet, what do we climb, who's going to drive, etc), but I find myself gravitating toward more low-key or out-of-the-way routes. If I go to a "popluar" crag, it's on a weekday, or in the late evening, or in bad weather when there's less likely to be company.

 

It wasn't a conscious strategy, but, rather a pattern that created itself, presumably driven by the same impetus that made the solo experience a desirable outcome in the first place. I've learned a lot about myself and my climbing when I'm alone. I also talk to myself(I've got to stop that, it's getting annoying.)

 

The fascinating(and surprising) part of this new world for me was that somewhere along the way to my "solo" experience I slipped into a subculture of other "soloists"(I use the term in its broader sense, as in, someone climbing alone, whether roped, aid, bouldering...). As the clouds roll in or as the sun begins to sit heavy on the darkening horizon, people quietly appear. Some with just a pair of shoes, some with aid gear, some with a rope and I-pod, but each is alone in their pursuit. You hear no one shout "on-belay" or "off-belay" or "WHAAAAT?!"

 

The few times it's happened, I remember it being a surreal scene, such a contrast from hustle-bustle crag activity I'm more familiar with.

 

 

 

 

[pope]

Decided not to solo a few years ago. Glad I lived through it. For a couple of years there, I probably climbed more without a rope than with. Like many, I experimented with making alpine climbs go faster, typically 3rd classing moderate rock with a partner until we got to the harder pitches. After a few trips like this I decided solo climbing was not only reasonable but preferable. Going alone subtracted most of the things I didn't like about climbng (shivering on a ledge, packing gear, sorting gear, rope tangles, etc.) and since I always climbed in control, my mind was only occupied with solving the problems of climbing, never worried about failure. With a rope, I didn't like going after pitches where I was likely to fall (although I liked being challenged), so I didn't miss that aspect of climbing when soloing.

[G-spotter]

Soloing is like driving a car without your seatbelt on, or taking the batteries out of your smoke alarm..

[G-spotter]

Or maybe like eating fugu. (I have never eaten fugu).

[dmuja]

Its mostly relative..

 

Personally im not impressed at all by solo'rs (no matter how difficult the climbing is) who Know the route because its their home crag or because they have rehearsed every move a kazillion times- its just a simple monkey concentration game then. (this is soloing's dirty little secret)

 

Now onsighting the unknown - and if it's near or at your physical limit- that's impressive.

Edited June 20, 2008 by dmuja

[chris]

I solo fairly regularly now. Just climbed a 800'-long ridge near Whitney two weeks ago. Stop over at Lovers Leap every time I'm driving back and forth and back again from Bishop. When I'm tired of the Leap, or when I've climbed everything I'm comfortable soloing there, I plan on moving down to Sonora Pass, and then Tioga.

Earlier this winter I solo skied the Sierra High Route from Alta Peak to Kearsarge Pass in 2.5 days. I took Sunday off, did laundry, and then guided the same route from west to east in 7 days.

I only solo something when I'm completely confident that I will not fall. Mark Twight mentioned something similar in writing once. I know that may be wrong, but there you have it.

I've bailed off a few times. Tahquitz. Rainier. Big Four. Mt Erie. Leaning Tower.

Perhaps most interesting is that MontanaPup was surprised to learn exactly what I was doing when I told her about my latest solo. She said she knew I was soloing, but never realized that I was climbing 5th class routes. She thought I was keeping it at the 5.4 or lower. Ooops. I don't go into a lot of detail when I tell her I solo, and she never really asked questions that needed detailed answers. Maybe we were both avoiding the "why"? She doesn't like climbing a lot of boulders because they're too high.

[plexus]

Funny thing is I can never "plan" on going soloing, it is always a spontaneous thing when I am out bouldering someplace like the Flatirons, or other places.

 

 

[eric8]

have not done a route solo since I spent a month in Cham. with perfect weather and no partner..

[Dane]

Its mostly relative..

 

Personally im not impressed at all by solo'rs (no matter how difficult the climbing is) who Know the route because its their home crag or because they have rehearsed every move a kazillion times- its just a simple monkey concentration game then. (this is soloing's dirty little secret)

 

Now onsighting the unknown - and if it's near or at your physical limit- that's impressive.

 

This is a fun and though provoking thread with some great responses.

 

"Dirty little secret"?

 

I used to live in an area where I heard a similar chorus from a small group of guys who climbed really hard but never soloed anything. Being one of the guys who did in fact head point stuff and then later solo it, (after a gazillion repeats) and onsighted stuff as well, I never figured out what the "secret" was. I've wired stuff that was really easy and wired stuff that I could just barely lead and soloed both. One climb was so hard for me that while I could do the moves, placing the pro could easily blow me out if I didn't get the pro sequence perfect and fire the stuff in. After leading the climb for the second time, no hang, no falls, with a major effort, I had this thought..."shit, bet I could flash this thing without a rope" and I did. Didn't get pumped because I didn't have to hang out and put in tricky pro. No secret there. That was only a single 100 foot pitch.

 

Also done climbs that were multiple pitches long that I had climbed several times before. And I worked every rest on every pitch to stay calm and focused. Made the climbing much easier. I rested places I typically wouldn't when I lead the same climb. Knowing the rests were there and how to work them made a big difference in the level of power and control on that climb.

 

Something really fun about going from one good hold to another and knowing what is in store for you. At least for me it allowed me to solo closer to what I was physically capable of, in control and safely. No way I would try to onsight, solo, something at that grade.

 

I don't know of many hard climbs that get soloed on sight. Astroman, the Rostrum, the Cookie Wall, Half Dome, El Cap? Most of the solos that get done including many of Bachar's, Croft's and Potter's were done after a few (or many, many) repeats of the route. Astroman is certainly well under Croft's and Potter's technical abilities. Were the climbs any less impressive because of that? Not to me on either count. Potter's ascent of Fitzroy's Super Coulior more or less impressive? The dude drank his own piss to finish Fitzroy. Solo the changing corner's pitch on Astroman or drink your own piss to survive? Interesting choice depending on which is harder for you?

 

No less impressive climbing or control imo. Alpine stuff is a different story and hard to rehearse. Steck's recent sub 3hrs on the Eiger was a good example of a climb that was pretty wired and rehearsed with his 10 previous ascents of that climb, and all but one, in a day or less! Gotta say I was still impressed. Hard climbing and a lot to get wired, even in 10 trips

 

But hard solos in the alpine and on rock do get done. Generally the practioner has done his "home work" on a rope elsewhere at a higher grade and on more demanding routes. But I don't think there is any "secret" to it. No one is hiding anything that I know of. You may assume something and think it is "dirty" but soloing seems pretty transparent to me..it all boils down to, "feet, hands and heart", no matter how many times you have done the route.

 

Generally when I run into a soloist I assume (incorrectly or not) it is his home turf and they are looking for mileage to get into or stay in shape. Only because that is how I generally use this part of the sport. I don't make judgements on why they are there or question their motives.

 

They're soloing. How much simplier can a climber really be?

 

Maybe "simple monkey concentration" is what we all really aspire to anyway. Maybe it is just the desire to have simple, safe movement in the vertical world. Sounds a lot like sport climbing and clipping those bolts doesn't it

 

I don't think soloing is for everyone. Shit, I was roped up and fell off a 5.6 and damn near died a few weeks ago. I know I am mortal! But soloing is and has always been a part of the sport. To put it off as a "death wish" or irresponsible isn't any better than a troll coming here and saying the same about climbing as a whole.

 

 

 

[marc_leclerc]

problem with soloing around here is alot of the climbs ar insecure slab climbs and most face climbs are above 5.10 wich I admit is too scary for me to solo at the moment

 

[JosephH]

"simple monkey concentration"

 

Hmmm. I wish it were that simple and in some ways it is I guess - but I consider it less a matter of concentration and more one of 'zen', 'flow', or whatever 'xxxx' word you want to use I suppose (actually, I strive for the same in all my climbing). I've soloed onsight only very occasionally and do rope solo onsight a fair amount each year while traveling. Most of the difference for me between the two is the thought processes going on before I leave the ground - once I'm on the rock it's pretty much the same deal either way. That's because I try not to think or concentrate or otherwise get in the way at all when I'm soloing. As a geek I'd say the most actively conscious part of soloing for me is what I'd call 'exception management' - if anything looks or feels in any way unusual I let thinking kick in again - otherwise, Dane's "feet, hands and heart" sounds about right to me.

 

Wired or onsight - you're either 'in-the-zone' or you're not. If you're not, you're sketching and sketching completely sucks regardless whether it's wired or onsight. So, from my perspective, onsight soloing in total control is bad ass - onsight soloing sketching your brains out and ending up lucky enough living to tell the tale is a mistake in perception and judgment.

 

[dmuja]

 

 

Well as a musician, I always try to hear my music the way a non-musician listener might hear it, raw. That way I get the perspective of what is "honest" in the music, no trade secrets that only the musician knows - ei polished, overly produced, rehearsed, they even have gadgets that will correct your tone if it's off pitch!

 

So from a non-climbers perspective, (ie beginners mind Zen sorta thing) it looks like this: Whoa! dude climbed that freakin mountain without a rope! Man is he crazy? Dude gets the girl and golden cookie award for his ego and for having giant size gonads!

 

But the climber (solo'r) knows that half the battle never really happened. The intricacies of working out the moves has at least been greatly diminished if not removed entirely. Route finding - a fundamental problem (challenge) that is essential to what most people think of as climbing - has been taken out of the equation.

 

Tell the girl (ego) that "well, really I have done this route a dozen times before.. etc.." and see if she still goes home with you. Im not saying that there is no challenge to soloing, just that if were honest about it, we will see it for what it really is - ei Dru's "..driving without a seatbelt..".

 

I guess im simply saying lets get honest about this and trash the image of the solitary super human zen solo'r, completely one with the rock who wants nothing to do with ego, an audience, topo or rope for that matter. Its mostly illusion (rehearsed) with few (maybe a handful in the world) exceptions.

 

Personally, I believe safe climbing is an art in itself. I like this saying I read hear a while ago, "if you can't protect the pitch, you got no buisness climbing it." Not that that is completely the case here, but it illustrates that there are things about climbing that only climbers know.

 

So have at it, it's cool and all that - and yes Ive "soloed" easy shit 5.6 and below - mostly when I wanted to get the hell off of it. But in fact, I'll revoke my earlier statement and say that I am probably impressed by intentional free solo climbing to an extent - just not as much as I would be if I didn't know certain things about it. And like other aspects of climbing "sport" and "siege climbing" it's just not what I got into it for. Mountains dudes, I want to climb mountains, with ropes and gear and well.., thats just me.

[MATT_B]

 

Well as a musician, I always try to hear my music the way a non-musician listener might hear it, raw. That way I get the perspective of what is "honest" in the music, no trade secrets that only the musician knows - ei polished, overly produced, rehearsed, they even have gadgets that will correct your tone if it's off pitch!

 

So from a non-climbers perspective, (ie beginners mind Zen sorta thing) it looks like this: Whoa! dude climbed that freakin mountain without a rope! Man is he crazy? Dude gets the girl and golden cookie award for his ego and for having giant size gonads!

 

But the climber (solo'r) knows that half the battle never really happened. The intricacies of working out the moves has at least been greatly diminished if not removed entirely. Route finding - a fundamental problem (challenge) that is essential to what most people think of as climbing - has been taken out of the equation.

 

Tell the girl (ego) that "well, really I have done this route a dozen times before.. etc.." and see if she still goes home with you. Im not saying that there is no challenge to soloing, just that if were honest about it, we will see it for what it really is - ei Dru's "..driving without a seatbelt..".

 

I guess im simply saying lets get honest about this and trash the image of the solitary super human zen solo'r, completely one with the rock who wants nothing to do with ego, an audience, topo or rope for that matter. Its mostly illusion (rehearsed) with few (maybe a handful in the world) exceptions.

 

Personally, I believe safe climbing is an art in itself. I like this saying I read hear a while ago, "if you can't protect the pitch, you got no buisness climbing it." Not that that is completely the case here, but it illustrates that there are things about climbing that only climbers know.

 

So have at it, it's cool and all that - and yes Ive "soloed" easy shit 5.6 and below - mostly when I wanted to get the hell off of it. But in fact, I'll revoke my earlier statement and say that I am probably impressed by intentional free solo climbing to an extent - just not as much as I would be if I didn't know certain things about it. And like other aspects of climbing "sport" and "siege climbing" it's just not what I got into it for. Mountains dudes, I want to climb mountains, with ropes and gear and well.., thats just me.

 

I think dmuja is missing the point. It's not about a battle or ego or being super human for the vast majority of people that solo at what ever level or style they do it at. There are probably as many reasons that people solo as there are soloists. I bet for most it is a deeply personal thing. I kind of look at it like "armchair mountaineers". They know all about climbing, they may have even been climbing a little bit but they aren't really climbers and don't really understand it. You can't really understand it unless you do it. Soloing does not make any one any more or less of a climber. The same can be said for those that don't solo. We have all seen the big glossy photos of the climber of the week soloing what ever big impressive route. It is easy to question their motivations to "solo" the route with all the cameras around. But we all know that is the exception, not the rule. Most of the time it is just people doing their own thing on their own terms.

 

On a somewhat similar note, did anyone catch frontline last night about the first solo non stop round the world sail boat race? That is a different bread of solo.

[plexus]

If anything, soloing makes me more humble and reminds me how small I am on this 3-400 foot climb. I think many climbers would agree it's much more of an internal challenge than anything else.

[JosephH]

Highly premeditated, public soloing of any kind for an audience or camera at a pre-arranged date/time is to me pretty inconceivable and stupidly banal. Can't relate to it at all.

 

As far as the onsight/wired thing goes, I think if you have it going on within a certain level, you have it going on - it doesn't matter all that much if you are playing something you've played a hundred times or are improvising - it's all just happening regardless. Does one happen a great deal more than the other? Sure. Novelty and familiarity co-mingle in an interesting dance all the time.

[dmuja]

If anything, soloing makes me more humble and reminds me how small I am on this 3-400 foot climb. I think many climbers would agree it's much more of an internal challenge than anything else.

 

Sure, I think it can work both ways. Maybe Im over emphasizing the "ego" thing here and I don't mean to cuz thats not the point. I'll just say that Im not ashamed of my ego and further that there is little in this endeavor -no matter what form it takes- that is not about ego in some respect. Re: "First Ascent" credits etc.. Some are less willing to admit that, while others simply aknowledge it and move on. Its fun, and gratifies my ego, so what, lets get on with it. I am not questioning the motives of any climber or style of climbing for mine are as impure as the next guys. (I will admit however that I never really got the modern "project" type of climbing where you work something from the top down for weeks and then claim a first ascent - but again thats just me and there's plenty to critisize on my side of the fence as well).

 

All Im saying is that free solo climbing is 99% of the time rehearsed climbing. You can take that fact however you want to, for some it will mean nothing, while for others it puts the feat in a clearer perspective (clearer for them).

 

One thing I really like about solo'rs is that they probly make good partners in that they are less likely to call "take".

[NateF]

I don't solo or even climb all that much, but I do appreciate alone time. Interesting comments from Sherri.

 

I can understand that there are people at a whole other level of climbing, fitness, mental control, and who want to challenge themselves in this way, that they even feel safe in doing so. For me the occasional runout is the closest I will come to entering that sort of mindspace. I have had a euphoric feeling a few times climbing way out past that last bolt or piece, a calmness and feeling of serenity, the lack of options has a way of erasing doubts and improving your technique and trust in yourself. Seems it can bring out your best climbing. Alternatively, it seems quite easy to climb like a bumbling buffoon with the safety of a toprope. Ever second a pitch and tell your buddy, "wow, nice lead, that was hard!", and their response is "huh, I thought it wasn't that bad, you could easily lead it".

 

I'm curious to hear from the soloists out there, does it bring out the best of your climbing when you're soloing something that is close to your technical limit?

[JosephH]

Not having soloed anything harder than a 5.9 I don't know about soloing at your limit. But for me, soloing doesn't bring out my best climbing - my best climbing brings out the soloing.

[Bug]

Soloing has nothing to do with ego for me. There is no one else around. No one else cares. I don't solo to pump my ego any more than I walk through an alpine meadow to pump my ego.

It is all about being someplace cool in the simplest possible (and still reasonably safe) way.

There is a lot of talk about "Chest-beating" on this site and certainly there is a lot going on. But there is also the occasional occurrence of a reasonable conversation between climbers who are really excited about a particular climb. They describe it in tones that are raw.

Saying something was "really hard" does not imply that they are really cool. It is about the route being expressed in english by someone who is not necessarily a poet.

The same often goes for soloing. It is something different from roped climbing.

[Dane]

All Im saying is that free solo climbing is 99% of the time rehearsed climbing. You can take that fact however you want to, for some it will mean nothing, while for others it puts the feat in a clearer perspective (clearer for them).

 

Not a fact at all. And I suspect from doing and knowing others that also make a habit of soloing not anywhere close to being true. And I agree with a previous poster you miss the point.

 

 

[RuMR]

Soloing has nothing to do with ego for me. There is no one else around. No one else cares. I don't solo to pump my ego any more than I walk through an alpine meadow to pump my ego.

It is all about being someplace cool in the simplest possible (and still reasonably safe) way.

There is a lot of talk about "Chest-beating" on this site and certainly there is a lot going on. But there is also the occasional occurrence of a reasonable conversation between climbers who are really excited about a particular climb. They describe it in tones that are raw.

Saying something was "really hard" does not imply that they are really cool. It is about the route being expressed in english by someone who is not necessarily a poet.

The same often goes for soloing. It is something different from roped climbing.

 

this is true, but man, my more sketchiest moments have always been when i was tied into a rope...anyone else find this to be true...

[jshamster]

38 yrs. young.

1 child.

I climb by myself at least a few times a year.

Sometimes on a rope (aid), most times, not.

I can only think of one climb that I have solo'd

that I climbed beforehand. Diedre in Squamish.

I definately keep soloing well below my roped free climbing

limit. Hardest prob. around 5.8.

 

I generally don't talk too much about solo climbing.

My freinds and family know, and are okay with what I have done

in the past.

I have never felt the need to spray.

I like moving quickly over rock/snow/ice.

I like climbing with minimal gear and maximum peace.

My favorite is having a general plan and moving forward as long

as I feel comfortable.

I have never felt bad about turning around because it was not the right time/day/climb to be on alone.

 

My 2cents.

 

Cheers.

Jimbo