OlympicMtnBoy Posted June 5, 2008 Posted June 5, 2008 Trip: Yosemite - Leaning Tower - West Face, 5.7 C2F - Solo Date: 5/27/2008 Trip Report: Whaddya know, I really can solo grade V eh? Pictures are here: picasa Back in 2005 when I was last in Yosemite, being partnerless I contemplated Leaning Tower as a solo trip, but never quite got up the nerve and just found partners for some free climbing. This year, a wedding brought me to San Francisco for Memorial Day and I figured I could probably stretch my vacation for the whole week and just drive down. Since none of my usual aid partners were free, the idea of a solo crept back into my mind. I figured I could use some time on my own for a bit, so I loaded up the haul bag. Last year I spent a few days at Index soloing single pitch stuff with a grigri, and I'd done a few short walls with partners, so why not go for it? I loaded up my haulbag and headed down. Day 1 I arrived in the valley early to somewhat ugle looking skies, parked at Bridalveil Falls, and hauled my first load up with all my hardware and ropes and stuff. The approach was fairly easy to find with the Supertopo guidebook. I dropped my pack and headed out to check out the exposed 4th class to the base of the route unencumbered. I found another party in the process of bailing from halfway up the first pitch bolt ladder due to weather (??). They were the only aid climbers I'd see on the wall. Caching my gear I headed back down for the next load. I had some lunch at the car, moved it out of the parking lot where you aren't allowed to park overnight, and picked up my much heavier haulbag loaded with 4 days of food and water (too much) as well as an unneeded portaledge and fly. The second trip to the base of the wall sucked, especially when the weather broke and it poured rain on me. I was glad for the fixed rope across the fourth class with the huge load too. Just as I arrived at the start of the route again I was greeted by two free climbers rapping down a fixed line. They told me the weather was supposed to get worse. Oh well, this route overhangs right? So there I was, already 400 ft off the ground due to the ledge approach, with all my gear. Shit, I guess I better climb eh? How did it get to be 3:00 in the afternoon already? Maybe I should start tomorrow and see what the weather does? Aww fuck it, I racked up and started out. Pitches one and two are bolt ladders and can be combined to almost exactly 60 meters, so just went for it. By the time I rapped my haul line, and then cleaned the route it was already 7, no way I'm hauling and camping. I went back down to the one person bivy ledge right at the base for a good nights sleep. Day 2 I jugged back up, realizing I'm out of jugging shape, and then made relatively short work of the haul given the free hanging nature of the line. You can see exactly how overhanging this all is in my pics. Mikey and Justin, the free climbers, jugged past me on the fixed line again to finish their free attempt on the route. I climbed and hauled to Guano Ledge at the top of pitch 4 and decided I ought to just bivy on the spacious Ahwanee ledge nearby since there wasn't anyone else there. I took a nice late lunch break and then headed out to climb, clean, and fix pitches 5 and 6. Right as I started I realized the weather was back and it was pouring rain about 30 feet out from me. Then it started to drip a bit on me. No prob, it's pretty sheltered. Around the middle of pitch 5 it started to hail, right when I got to the only exposed part of the route. I was not happy, but there was only one way to go, and soon I was dry at the belay again. I actually managed to clean the traverse without too much trouble and was still pretty happy with myself at the end of the day as i popped open a Guinness. Day 3 I had a leisurely morning alone, then headed up again. As I rapped down from the top of pitch 8 to clean I met another pair of free climbers. I was ready for lunch so I hung out at the top of 8 while they combined 8 and 9. It was cool to watch someone free climb a 5.12b roof right over my head. Maybe next time I'll free it, but as soon as they were clean i had my fun aiding through it. Before I know it I was at the top of pitch 10 behind them and done with the route! Now I had the scariest moment of the climb, rapping my haul line off the top with over 1000 feet of air below me. Now I wished I had a beefier haul line (mine was 9 mm). No probs though, I lowered out the bag, cleaned, and was back on the comfy bivy ledge with all my gear by 7:30. My final beer was well earned. Day 4 I slept in, explored the summit, photographed some lizards in the sun, and then packed up. I had over a gallon of extra water and tons of food still, but I was at the top and it was time to head down. I left the water for the next thirsty party and headed down. I'm sure there is a way to link the rap stations with fewer stops, but still the trip down the chimneys wasn't bad. It was much nicer when I could hang the bag under me and didn't have to wear it, but I still made it down. The final hike out from the base with EVERYTHING in my haulbag REALLY sucked, but despite costant visions of twisted knees and such I eventually stumbled back into the parking lot and then down the road to my car. So that was it? Yep, I soloed me a wall and absolutely nothing exciting happened during it. How cool is that? No go look at the pictures, i think they much be more interesting than my text. Gear Notes: There is so much fixed gear it's almost a sport climb, but I took two sets of cams from ~black alien to #3 camalot, one #4, one set of offset aliens, one set of offset nuts (brass to aluminum sizes), one set of normal nuts and micro nuts, two sets of ball nuts (love those things), and a few hooks (which I used to basically avoid all but two moves of free climbing). I took a portaledge thinking I might be slow or the real ledges might be crowded, never brought it out of the bag. Approach Notes: Head left from the bathrooms, left of the house sized boulder, and then follow the trail and cairns. Quote
underworld Posted June 5, 2008 Posted June 5, 2008 congrats d00d!! nice work and a STEEP wall, eh! those pictures rock! Quote
pink Posted June 5, 2008 Posted June 5, 2008 good yob! love that veiw of the el cap from top of the leaning tower. Quote
billcoe Posted June 5, 2008 Posted June 5, 2008 Great stuff! Nice TR and pics! Thank you for sharing them. Quote
mountainmatt Posted June 5, 2008 Posted June 5, 2008 Sweet job Stewart! Glad the weather worked out for you Quote
DRep Posted June 5, 2008 Posted June 5, 2008 Fully sick man! Congratulations, I'm really jealous. Quote
Moof Posted June 6, 2008 Posted June 6, 2008 As soon as they send out the link, I'm posting pics of you dancing at MJ and Tuna's wedding! Quote
OlympicMtnBoy Posted June 6, 2008 Author Posted June 6, 2008 Awww, now I feel all warm and fuzzy inside. :-) Thanks for the comments. And what are you talking about Moof? I am a totally awesome dancer, I'm sure everyone wants to see that. How are you on that list anyways? Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted June 6, 2008 Posted June 6, 2008 Fucking sweet D00d :tup: Between you and tvash, I'm really getting depressed. Quote
Moof Posted June 6, 2008 Posted June 6, 2008 (edited) I snuck onto the list for the free booze, and to stalk you of course... I was the other guy at Alcatraz with a red beard, if that narrows it down enough. Didn't know you were climber. I don't think I qualify to be called that anymore... It's a small world... Edited June 6, 2008 by Moof Quote
TREETOAD Posted June 6, 2008 Posted June 6, 2008 I wish I could do that!! way to fucking go!!!! Quote
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