elliottwill Posted May 17, 2008 Posted May 17, 2008 (edited) I recently inherited a box of Black Diamond angle pitons in the full size range. The larger angles aren't useful to me, but the narrower sizes are. I wondered about thinning down the larger sizes so they'd fit into narrower cracks. Is this possible? Edited May 25, 2008 by elliottwill Quote
pink Posted May 17, 2008 Posted May 17, 2008 use a saws all and finish them off with a grinder to smooth and round your edges. use oil when grinding. Quote
MarkMcJizzy Posted May 18, 2008 Posted May 18, 2008  and cutting oil  And a geologic era. Better use something that is tied into the electric grid  use a saws all and finish them off with a grinder to smooth and round your edges. use oil when grinding. I have never heard of anyone, anywhere using oil when grinding, except is very specialized machine tool applications.  Tools of choice ( in descending order): Horizontal band saw (oil bath, professional tool) vertical band saw Porta-band Saw-zall Abrasive chop saw.  I would not hesitate to use any of these tools to cut pitons, including the chop saw. I would want to see how much the local area was heating up before I gave the final blessing to the chop saw method.  Quote
billcoe Posted May 19, 2008 Posted May 19, 2008 Blades for chop saws come in many different configurations. Chop saw works fine if you use a gritty, fast cutting blade Mark. It won't get it hot enough to affect the temper at all and is very fast. Keep the pieces clamped down tight.... Quote
MarkMcJizzy Posted May 19, 2008 Posted May 19, 2008 Lets have a contest over who has used any metal cutting tool more, me or you. I've used chop saw for days, I mean eight full hours, then more of the same the next day. Let me be the chop saw expert. Quote
tomtom Posted May 19, 2008 Posted May 19, 2008 Better use something that is tied into the electric grid  Lemme guess. You also use the elevator to go down a flight of steps.  Quote
billcoe Posted May 19, 2008 Posted May 19, 2008 Lets have a contest over who has used any metal cutting tool more, me or you. I've used chop saw for days, I mean eight full hours, then more of the same the next day. Let me be the chop saw expert. Â OK, what do I win then? Â I wasn't contesting your list Mark but rather adding to it. I think you nailed it. We had a hydrolic horizontal bandsaw at the last place I worked and it was the total Schizz. I cut mucho metal on that bandsaw including scads of All Thread rod to various lengths for mfg and contractors and most of the custom channel for new building hydrolic line installs around here. When that wasn't being used we had a big custom made chop saw that was used a lot as well. I've been (happily) out of that niche since @1997 though, and if I bump into it I'm paying someone to do the job now: so I rarely touch the single chop saw we have anyway. Â I still like the smell of burning metal though. Quote
MarkMcJizzy Posted May 19, 2008 Posted May 19, 2008 OK, what do I win then? Wow, you have an awesome metal cutting resume. Too bad I'm still aheead of you. Add track burners, motorized torches, Okie burners, plasma cutters, arc gougers, shears, irown workers, punches etc etc etc Quote
fenderfour Posted May 19, 2008 Posted May 19, 2008 Find a fat kid. Dip one end of the piton in peanut butter. Wait. Quote
Briang Posted May 19, 2008 Posted May 19, 2008 Two cents here: Â Don't under estimate the versitility of a regular jig saw. Â Secure the piton in a bench vise. Use a good bi-metal blade (Lennox are good) and a bit of lubricant. USE A BLADE MADE TO CUT WOOD! They will work very well and be much faster than a blade made to cut metal. The piton will get hot! Â The jig saw will be much better than a sawzall (easier to control and more precise) and less hassel than clamping it in a chopsaw/band saw vise. Â Use safety glasses! Â Good Luck! Â Brian Quote
Hugh Conway Posted May 19, 2008 Posted May 19, 2008 Two cents here: Don't under estimate the versitility of a regular jig saw.  Secure the piton in a bench vise. Use a good bi-metal blade (Lennox are good) and a bit of lubricant. USE A BLADE MADE TO CUT WOOD! They will work very well and be much faster than a blade made to cut metal. The piton will get hot!  The jig saw will be much better than a sawzall (easier to control and more precise) and less hassel than clamping it in a chopsaw/band saw vise.  Use safety glasses!  Good Luck!  Brian  dumbest post yet on this thread - thats quite an honor! Quote
rat Posted May 19, 2008 Posted May 19, 2008 "I recently inherited a box of Black Diamond angle pitons in the full size range. The larger angles are pretty big, heavy, and seem redundant given the existence of nuts and cams in the same size. I wondered about cutting off some of the material so they'd fit in smaller cracks,....." Â forgive me if my reading comprehension is poor but..... Â you have an assortment from probably 1/2" babies to regular 2" angles and you want to cut the larger ones down to fit "smaller cracks"? this sounds like you don't want to make sawed-off "shotguns" for bottoming pin scars but actually want to shave material off the long axes of the pins. if that's the case, it sounds like a pain in the ass and you might be better off selling/trading the ones you don't feel you will use. Â Â Quote
mattp Posted May 19, 2008 Posted May 19, 2008 That was my initial reaction, Rat, but then again I didn't want to get in an argument over who knows the most about metal chop saws. Quote
rat Posted May 19, 2008 Posted May 19, 2008 no way to win that one unless you tally missing appendages of various sorts. Quote
Hugh Conway Posted May 19, 2008 Posted May 19, 2008 no way to win that one unless you tally missing appendages of various sorts. Â so which ones the eunuch? Quote
olyclimber Posted May 19, 2008 Posted May 19, 2008 well, Mark know more about it than all of you put together, so there. Quote
fenderfour Posted May 19, 2008 Posted May 19, 2008 More importantly: Â Pitons are specialized equipment. They are mostly used for hard aid climbing routes. Many people bring them along for winter alpine climbing and for first ascents. Using them as a standard part of your rack is probably a bad idea. It is such a bad idea that you are likely to receive a beatingg from the "locals" if you decide to place any on a free climbing route. Â The fact that you are perplexed at the similarity in size to other clean climbing gear leads me to believe that you don't know what these things are for. Either put them in your closet until you know you need them, or sell them to other people that do. Quote
pink Posted May 19, 2008 Posted May 19, 2008 seems like most sawed off angles can be placed clean anyway and isn't that what this thread is about. Quote
Hugh Conway Posted May 19, 2008 Posted May 19, 2008 seems like most sawed off angles can be placed clean anyway and isn't that what this thread is about. Â run along dear, man talk < slaps pink on the ass > Quote
pink Posted May 19, 2008 Posted May 19, 2008 sorry maam. it's just what i heard. i have no experience with nail ups or body weight gear placements whatsoever. Quote
kevbone Posted May 19, 2008 Posted May 19, 2008 sorry maam. it's just what i heard. i have no experience with nail ups or body weight gear placements whatsoever. Â Â :wazup: Quote
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