[TR] Icicle Buttress - R&D 5/4/2008

[olyclimber]

just for starters, here's five:

Careno Crag

Duty Dome

Pearly Gates

Clem's Holler, etc

Midnight Rock

are far superior to Castle in every way IMO

 

 

blackhead, just try to think of it as a rock that helps keep others from crowding up your favorites

 

i personally find it to be a nice chunk of historical stone to climb on even if it is a bit greasy. the position up on the rock in the canyon is really enjoyable. (is is just pic of the crag, not of the view from it). choice is the spice of life.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

what's all this whining about castle being greasy? So it's a little polished, big deal. The same can be said about manure pile buttress in Yosemite,but it's still good climbing for beginners.

 

There is nowhere in Leavenworth where you can find as many routes as close together under 5.9 as at Castle. The Pinnacles comes close, but there is more hiking there, and the rock is not granite. You can easily spend 3 (or more) weekends at castle working your way up into the hard nines and low tens.

 

Castle is also nice because there are basically no sport climbs. It's all trad. You have to pay your due to climb hard at castle. Another benefit is there are often people around, so if you get in trouble, help is easily available.Hell, I think even verizon has coverage there.

 

I love castle. Too bad it's getting more popular. The last few years I'd go up there and see one other party.

 

I went up to CR on a nice warm day last October and there was only a few other parties there. It was very enjoyable.

 

[TrogdortheBurninator]

just for starters, here's five:

Careno Crag

Duty Dome

Pearly Gates

Clem's Holler, etc

Midnight Rock

are far superior to Castle in every way IMO

 

Castle is so much more unique and interesting than the others of those I have climbed at (havent been to pearly gates or midnight). Careno is a great crag, but regular route is the only really good longer line on it. Clem's Holler is fun, but certainly not a standout crag. Same with Duty Dome, pretty generic, but still fun.

 

Best crags in LW, IMO

1) Snow Creek

2) Castle

3) Careno

 

all others I have been to are far distant and in fact I consider Castle to Careno a decent step down. Looking at it, I'd definitely believe midnight should be high on this list, hopefully I'll get up there sometime.

[olyclimber]

Trog, check out the Pearly Gates. Well worth the hike up there I think.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

definitely hoping to get up there some nice day this spring. looks like a really fun crag.

[blackhead]

"There is nowhere in Leavenworth where you can find as many routes as close together under 5.9 as at Castle."

according to my guidebook there are 61 routes on Castle.

13 are under 5.9, including such classics as North Ridge (5.5)

Clem's Layback (5.8) & Heavenly Traverse (5.7)

where's the beef?

KK: didn't mean to call you an idiot, I think you arrived at that conclusion yourself. BTW, what is the minimum number of posts one needs for credibility?

[G-spotter]

Careno is a great crag, but regular route is the only really good longer line on it.

 

I thought the Bale-Kramar was as good as Reg Route, the boulder start was kind of a sandbag though.

[ericb]

"There is nowhere in Leavenworth where you can find as many routes as close together under 5.9 as at Castle."

according to my guidebook there are 61 routes on Castle.

13 are under 5.9, including such classics as North Ridge (5.5)

Clem's Layback (5.8) & Heavenly Traverse (5.7)

where's the beef?

KK: didn't mean to call you an idiot, I think you arrived at that conclusion yourself. BTW, what is the minimum number of posts one needs for credibility?

 

IMO, Ironically, I think the only way for you to gain credibility here is to have 5 fewer posts

[chucK]

Here's some climbs I've done at Castle

---------------------------------------

Fault/Catapult/Bone

Brass Balls

Saints

Angel

Damnation/Midway Direct (or Direct Direct)

Midway

South Face JT

Old Gray Mare/Crack of Doom

Canary

Cat Burglar

Saber

Century

 

That's a bunch. They are all doable by a weekend warrior. Of that list only a couple are fairly hard, and only a couple I thought were sorta sucky. All concentrated closely together. Super simple descent.

 

Pearly Gates: I went and got a tour from a local (Telemarker). Fun, aesthetic climbs, but all basically one pitch (though some can be contrived into two). But We polished 'em all off and were bored by 2pm. I guess there were a couple of 5.7's that we didn't do.

 

Duty Dome and Careno are cool if following bolt trails doesn't stick in yer craw. Careno you can whip off a bonch o' pitches by taking a couple of laps and mixing and matching through the terraces. Duty you can find some varied stuff, but you gotta work pretty hard.

 

Haven't been to Clem's or Midnight. From what I've heard though, you're gonna have a hard time calling Midnight a good place for moderates.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Careno is a great crag, but regular route is the only really good longer line on it.

 

I thought the Bale-Kramar was as good as Reg Route, the boulder start was kind of a sandbag though.

 

B-K has some good climbing on it, but I dont think that makes it a really good route. I.E. on P2 you climb a fun 5.10- face with a bunch of mid 5th cracks 5' to your right. Best pitch, p3, can be hiked around. On the last pitch, I think pocket meister is better than the regular BK finish.

 

Regular route is much more natural, and takes a logical weakness in the rock (except for the more pleasent 5.10 face variation on p1)

[KaskadskyjKozak]

what is the minimum number of posts one needs for credibility?

 

how about starting with a TR of your own before shitting on someone else's?

 

[Blake]

 

Best crags in LW, IMO

1) Snow Creek

2) Castle

3) Careno

 

 

For climbs in the 5.8-5.11a range, I think Ozone and Pearly gates are both a lot better than Castle Rock. Maybe better than Careno as well.

 

Midnight has a good routes but not too many of them, and its such a long walk! (and quite difficult to move from climb-to-climb) The pitches that exist though are on par with Index, or Nightmare Rock, in terms of quality.

[ilookeddown]

what is the minimum number of posts one needs for credibility?

 

how about starting with a TR of your own before shitting on someone else's?

 

 

 

:tup:

 

 

 

 

[sobo]

"There is nowhere in Leavenworth where you can find as many routes as close together under 5.9 as at Castle."

according to my guidebook there are 61 routes on Castle.

13 are under 5.9, including such classics as North Ridge (5.5)

Clem's Layback (5.8) & Heavenly Traverse (5.7)

where's the beef?

KK: didn't mean to call you an idiot, I think you arrived at that conclusion yourself. BTW, what is the minimum number of posts one needs for credibility?

 

IMO, Ironically, I think the only way for you to gain credibility here is to have 5 fewer posts

My vote for POTD. 5 stars.

[ZONK]

R&D with or with out the C.C. start is a good starter route. All My kids but the 6 year old have followed me up it at one time in there life.

 

Castle is a mixed bag. Good Climbs and busy on the weekends. I hit it once a Year always on a weekday.

I have done over 20 diffrent routes there the ones I go back and do will always put a smile on My face, Year after Year.

 

That said there is much better climbing in many diffrent locations in both the Tumwater and the Icicle Multi-pitch and Single, Sport and Trad. Look around people ! Stop following the crowd ! it seems to Me most people go to the same damn spot as everyone else, just to be seen.

 

The story about the group on Castle Last Weekend is Freaky and those who are responsible should sit there butts down and question there leadership ability.

[Off_White]

Easy folks, no sense getting riled over a little banter and punditry.

 

I've always liked Castle, though I probably haven't been there in over a decade. I think Royal Columns in the Tieton is one of the premier beginner crags in the state, so many good moderate cracks. I took my 14 year old daughter there for a day of crack school, we had such a good time and never climbed anything harder than 5.6.

 

Of course, this is wandering a little far afield in a TR, but it's generally a pretty good conversation...

[bwrts]

It sounds like someone needs to invest a little effort in putting in a decent trail. Perhaps a group (mounties?) that uses the climb a lot could be encouraged to invest time to build one.

As for trailbuilding in Icicle Creek Canyon, many people have talked with the rangers over the years and they have generally asked climbers NOT to undertake any trailbuilding.

 

The standard descent route off Icicle Buttress is "loose" in a few places which is typically avoidable with a little care and creative wandering. If 'one' has issues with this descent then I do not recommend ever wandering up to snow creek wall/crag as that loose gully will leave you for the goats. Remember this is rock climbing and not hiking; descents are (in my opinion) sometimes way more dangerous than the climb. Take your time and look around before you tread downward.

 

hey KKK-

I saw you belaying below the chimney while climbing up to the cave. (I doubt you saw a snake but a tail of lizard perhaps.)

Now that you have climbed R and D, head back for the cave route via leaner crack or chicken gully. ***But be careful of the large very dangerous yet avoidable death blocks in the cave proper (not suitable for belaying on- adjacent crack in slab way better).***

Exit the cave to the right and follow ramp to crack staying left vearing right is 5.10-. Good moves and great location.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

hey KKK-

I saw you belaying below the chimney while climbing up to the cave. (I doubt you saw a snake but a tail of lizard perhaps.)

 

No, it was definitely a snake.

 

 

[lancegranite]

Odds are that it was a rare north american Rubber boa constrictor.

I have seen one on the ledge above the R&D chimney and, just last weekend, in a similar spot near Duty dome.

[olyclimber]

http://www.californiaherps.com/snakes/pages/c.bottae.html

[Bug]

I have seen a number of rattlers in Icicle.

I am always very careful about jumping down to a spot that might be in front of a snake.

[eric8]

 

Castle is also nice because there are basically no sport climbs.

 

Das Muzack is the only hard route I have ever seen people on at Castle and its bolted. Unless you count DDD which is a top rope probelm and requires even less due paying.

 

Almost all leavenworth crags have about a day worth of climbing on them if you get after it, with the exception of Midnight and SCW. The best climbing in leavenworth is actually bouldering...and I don't even boulder so the top crags

 

1. Forestlands

2. Mad Meadows

3. The Icehouse area

4. Midnight

5. SCW

6. Pearly Gates

7. Rattlesnake rock

8. JY boulders/crag combo

...

[mattp]

Here's a shot of the first ascent. Fred and friends took the "preferred variation." By the time the guidebook came out, climbers had discovered that it was slightly easier to cut right under the roof and slither up the chimney that has become known as "Midway." This error has been faithfully reflected in every guidebook since.

 

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Odds are that it was a rare north american Rubber boa constrictor.

I have seen one on the ledge above the R&D chimney and, just last weekend, in a similar spot near Duty dome.

 

it was green with a yellow stripe, I believe. Not a rubber boa.

 

I did a quick google search and my guess is that it was a garter snake:

 

http://www.bentler.us/eastern-washington/animals/snakes/common-garter-snake.aspx

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Here's a shot of the first ascent. Fred and friends took the "preferred variation." By the time the guidebook came out, climbers had discovered that it was slightly easier to cut right under the roof and slither up the chimney that has become known as "Midway." This error has been faithfully reflected in every guidebook since.

 

 

somebody warned me that when you go in the crack to the right your rope can get stuck in a crack there, so I was careful to put in a piece with a single runner (with a knot tied in it to shorten it) to keep the rope out of that crack.

 

Matt: is Midway direct really that much harder than the variation to the right? Why do you say it's not for beginners?