[TR] Icicle Buttress - R&D 5/4/2008

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Trip: Icicle Buttress - R&D

 

Date: 5/4/2008

 

Trip Report:

 

I know this is ho-hum for must rock-jocks here, but my TR to Spray ratio sucks.

 

I drove up from the Eastside and met two guys at the Snow Creek TH Sunday at about 9. They had been top-roping all day the day before up to 5.10b, but still considered themselves "newbies". I suggested we do an easy multipitch and we drove up to Icicle Buttress to take a look. We saw two parties en route - the second was about halfway through the 2nd pitch, so we hiked up to the base of the climb and geared up.

 

I've never been up R&D and was going by a route description from SummitPost. The description mentioned heading up to some easy cracks and a slab with bolts. I saw some shiny bolts over an awkward bulging start and no cracks, and some older bolts next to a "gash". We opted for the latter. The slab had some lichen and my footing was a little sketchy, but that eased off and I seemed to be on route. I ran the rope out to close to 200 feet and belayed the two followers (the middle guy dragged a second rope).

 

The second pitch went well too, with mostly easy terrain and a few moves. I ran the rope up close to the chimney, but I think I ended up too far up, and had to set up a belay from a smallish ledge.

 

 

This freaked out my 2nd especially when he saw a biner was caught on the runner on one of the anchors and was almost coming off (I looped a flake with one runner and girth-hitched a separate chock with a second, so we were good with a back-up).

 

Third pitch was short and super easy. The few moves in the chimney were hella fun. One thing worth noting: as I placed my first piece below the chimney I saw a small snake slither in a horizontal crack. I don't know if it was a rattler or not. I moved above it quickly.

 

The fourth pitch started with a near fall. A few moves into the right crack (5.7) I stepped up and somehow caught some of my pieces and/or a runner from my rack harness on the piece I had just placed. I couldn't move up, and couldn't clear the problem directly, so I just unclipped a piece and a runner and shook them loose and moved up.

 

My follower moving up the right-most crack on the fourth pitch.

 

At this point I saw a tree and thought that was the spot to belay from (as per the route description). So I belayed my followers, and then looked for the walk-off. Ooops. We weren't done. So we did a fifth pitch to make it interesting. I zipped up the crack with about 6 cams and topped out quickly.

 

KK ready to walk off.

 

The walk-off sucked, and I think I put some permanent scratches on my climbing shoes on the way down. We got off the trail somehow. We only carried up some water and food (the 2nd did) and not shoes.

 

Temps were in the 70's, sunny, PERFECT. We enjoyed a beer at the car and drove home.

 

 

View up the route after our descent - time for a beer!

 

It took way too long (5 hours?) but we didn't hold anybody up. One party almost caught up to use on the "5th" pitch.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Nuts, Hexes, Cams up C4 #4, green and yellow alien.

 

Approach Notes:

Walk off sucks.

Edited May 9, 2008 by KaskadskyjKozak

[olyclimber]

Way to get out there KKKK! Sounds like a great day out.

[Off_White]

Nice, I've never done that route, sounds like a good time. Five hours three people five pitches is not bad. Sounds like you were the guide and ropegun? That feels really different than swinging leads.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Nice, I've never done that route, sounds like a good time. Five hours three people five pitches is not bad. Sounds like you were the guide and ropegun? That feels really different than swinging leads.

 

Yeah, guide and ropegun. I told the guys if I took a bad fall, they'd have to rap down somehow and call the helicopter.

 

[Bug]

Cool.

You got onit.

[lnunn]

we were the last party of two on the Buttress, saw you guys walking off. We did the same thing on the final pitch. my partner was about to coil the rope until I realized there was one more "roll" to climb.

 

but it was a decent consolation prize after a horrible experience on Castle Rock that morning. not because of the climbing itself, but because we mananged to get caught in the middle of the worst Mountaineers fiasco I've ever seen. Not only did they take over all of the main routes, but members of their party were moving SO SLOW (on a two pitch route, mind you) that an observer in their group actually called SEARCH & RESCUE thinking someone was hurt!!! turns out they weren't, of course, just retarded.

 

long story short, my partner and i waited on top of the first pitch of the route just right of Jello Tower (i forget the name) FOR AN HOUR so the last party of two could move off. finally, we just climbed past.

 

personally, i love bringing new people into the activity & and I dont mind being patient while someone attempts their first trad lead. my beef is that while they're "learing the ropes," they're not being taught basic climbing etiquette at the same time. they apologized to us when we hit the ground, but I would much rather have someone on the rock helping these people (who were really clueless) get it done instead of shrugging their shoulders and saying sorry.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

we were the last party of two on the Buttress, saw you guys walking off. We did the same thing on the final pitch. my partner was about to coil the rope until I realized there was one more "roll" to climb.

 

but it was a decent consolation prize after a horrible experience on Castle Rock that morning. not because of the climbing itself, but because we mananged to get caught in the middle of the worst Mountaineers fiasco I've ever seen. Not only did they take over all of the main routes, but members of their party were moving SO SLOW (on a two pitch route, mind you) that an observer in their group actually called SEARCH & RESCUE thinking someone was hurt!!! turns out they weren't, of course, just retarded.

 

long story short, my partner and i waited on top of the first pitch of the route just right of Jello Tower (i forget the name) FOR AN HOUR

 

I'm glad we didn't head over to Castle Rock... that was my second possible idea for a multipitch.

 

The route right of Jello Tower - could it be Winter Solstice (5.6, traverses under a bulge)?

 

[lnunn]

we were the last party of two on the Buttress, saw you guys walking off. We did the same thing on the final pitch. my partner was about to coil the rope until I realized there was one more "roll" to climb.

 

but it was a decent consolation prize after a horrible experience on Castle Rock that morning. not because of the climbing itself, but because we mananged to get caught in the middle of the worst Mountaineers fiasco I've ever seen. Not only did they take over all of the main routes, but members of their party were moving SO SLOW (on a two pitch route, mind you) that an observer in their group actually called SEARCH & RESCUE thinking someone was hurt!!! turns out they weren't, of course, just retarded.

 

long story short, my partner and i waited on top of the first pitch of the route just right of Jello Tower (i forget the name) FOR AN HOUR

 

I'm glad we didn't head over to Castle Rock... that was my second possible idea for a multipitch.

 

The route right of Jello Tower - could it be Winter Solstice (5.6, traverses under a bulge)?

 

yeah, that's the one. at least we had an opportunity to get caught up on all the latest gossip while we waited... and a nice sun tan to boot!

[Sherri]

We got caught in the Castle Rock Traffic Jam, as well.

 

Seeing that the starts of Midway and Saber were stacked with people in matching orange shirts(?), we opted for the wide-open Cat Burglar route. I left most of my shin skin on that start . The rest of the route was spicy but interesting and went quickly.

 

Our progress came to a screeching halt at Saber ledge, however. We neglected to factor in that it converges with Saber at that point. Oh well, win some lose some.

 

Got to second Angel for the first time later that day. That's a sweet crack!

 

 

KKK, congrats on your R&D send. Sounds like you gave your "clients" a terrific experience and enjoyed a fine day out. That route gets my vote for the worst walk-off in the Icicle. I don't think that there really is a descent trail there, at least not one that deserves to be called a "trail." It's nasty even in approach shoes.

[Rad]

This site can use more TRs so thanks for posting

 

It sounds like someone needs to invest a little effort in putting in a decent trail. Perhaps a group (mounties?) that uses the climb a lot could be encouraged to invest time to build one.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

We got caught in the Castle Rock Traffic Jam, as well.

 

Seeing that the starts of Midway and Saber were stacked with people in matching orange shirts(?), we opted for the wide-open Cat Burglar route. I left most of my shin skin on that start . The rest of the route was spicy but interesting and went quickly.

 

It's funny, I was justing asking CBS about Cat Burgler and he recommended aiding that first move on the route. Good job getting off the ground cleanly!

 

[Sherri]

We got caught in the Castle Rock Traffic Jam, as well.

 

Seeing that the starts of Midway and Saber were stacked with people in matching orange shirts(?), we opted for the wide-open Cat Burglar route. I left most of my shin skin on that start . The rest of the route was spicy but interesting and went quickly.

 

It's funny, I was justing asking CBS about Cat Burgler and he recommended aiding that first move on the route. Good job getting off the ground cleanly!

 

Thanks. I think my shins would have rather done it with aid.

 

 

The moves on the rest of the route weren't particularly straightforward(balancy traverse, sparse pro, etc), but they were certainly less painful.

 

I think you made the right call taking your chances on R&D. I really enjoy that one, especially the chimney bit.

 

 

 

 

 

[blackhead]

The best descent from Icicle Butt is to the right over to the duty dome trail. (as it states in the guidebook) going left into the gravel chute is just dumb.

Speaking of dumb, climbing on that greasepit Castle Rock (especially when its already covered with idiots)might just be dumber.

[mattp]

In my opinon, that greaspit Castle Rock is the best crag in the state for climbs below 5.9. There's a reason it is so popular.

 

As for trailbuilding in Icicle Creek Canyon, many people have talked with the rangers over the years and they have generally asked climbers NOT to undertake any trailbuilding.

[sobo]

5K-

Nice job on R&D. Ten years ago, I took my fiance' up that route. At the top of the fourth, I reached into my pocket and pulled out "the rock" and handed it to her (I had already proposed at Punte Hilbrunner in the Italian Alps about 6 months earlier, but didn't have a suitable ring at the time). She almost fell off at the belay. That's when I realized we still had that last pitch to go to finish. Kind of the story of my life: just when you think the effort is over...

 

Sherri-

Noticed your beat up shins, too!

[rob]

Part of my toenail is still black from walking off R&D in my rock shoes several years ago. Fucker won't come off.

[ericb]

Part of my toenail is still black from walking off R&D in my rock shoes several years ago. Fucker won't come off.

 

hmmmm....I was considering taking my wife up this climb, but I'm rethinking it if the walk-off is really that bad.

[sobo]

It's really not "that" bad. My fiance' still married me after that epic descent outing.

[Bug]

The walkoff is not bad if you take tennis shoes.

Be kind and haul them through the chimney pitch for her.

I took my brother and his wife up the climb 10 years ago. She had never climbed anything. She enjoyed it but is still not into climbing.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Part of my toenail is still black from walking off R&D in my rock shoes several years ago. Fucker won't come off.

 

hmmmm....I was considering taking my wife up this climb, but I'm rethinking it if the walk-off is really that bad.

 

Well apparently we were just "idiots" according to our 2-post wonder above (who, BTW, can go lick s...)

 

Just bring up the tennis shoes. My rock shoes are 1/2 size smaller than my street shoes, so my griping is mostly due to the excruciating pain from banging my toes into the front of my shoes. The sand chafing inside the shoes was only salt on the wounds.

 

[blackhead]

IMO, Castle is about the 26th best crag in Leavenworth.

5.9 and under? Like what?

Canary? very greasy

Saber? extremely greasy

Midway, catapult, S Face Jello are OK

what else?

 

[TrogdortheBurninator]

name 25 better crags. hell, name 5 better crags.

 

[blackhead]

just for starters, here's five:

Careno Crag

Duty Dome

Pearly Gates

Clem's Holler, etc

Midnight Rock

are far superior to Castle in every way IMO

 

[lnunn]

Castle was supposed to be a warm up for us. It was my first time on rock since last summer, so a couple mellow multi pitch routes to start was the plan. Hence our frustration when we got caught in all the BS.

[markwebster]

what's all this whining about castle being greasy? So it's a little polished, big deal. The same can be said about manure pile buttress in Yosemite,but it's still good climbing for beginners.

 

There is nowhere in Leavenworth where you can find as many routes as close together under 5.9 as at Castle. The Pinnacles comes close, but there is more hiking there, and the rock is not granite. You can easily spend 3 (or more) weekends at castle working your way up into the hard nines and low tens.

 

Castle is also nice because there are basically no sport climbs. It's all trad. You have to pay your due to climb hard at castle. Another benefit is there are often people around, so if you get in trouble, help is easily available.Hell, I think even verizon has coverage there.

 

I love castle. Too bad it's getting more popular. The last few years I'd go up there and see one other party.