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Posted

I'd say the most fun pitch I climbed in 2007 was either Penny Lane or the 11a to the right of it at Squamish. I had never been to the Smoke Bluffs, so many good cracks. The hardest and most memorable was the second pitch of Accidental Discharge on Gunsight. Yuck.

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Posted

Did you climb the thin crack to the left of Penny Lane? 11b fingers with real smeary feet. I think it's called crime of the century. That may have been my favorite of the year. I also really enjoyed Even Steven's at Index.

Posted
Did you climb the thin crack to the left of Penny Lane? 11b fingers with real smeary feet. I think it's called crime of the century. That may have been my favorite of the year. I also really enjoyed Even Steven's at Index.

this one?

IMG_2920.jpg

 

i was informed by the 7 year old that its "only 5.7 max"...

Posted

no, not a 4...sick high step...his damn foot would actually go into the route at the bottom...not his toe, but his foot...at the time he wore a size 11 (that's toddler size) mad monkey shoe...

 

i think he was serious when he said it felt like a 5.7...sheesh...

 

this group that was right beside us got all pissed off at him and starting saying stuff like "ego blah blah blah"...i honestly think he wasn't trying to be a smart ass...

Posted
Did you climb the thin crack to the left of Penny Lane? 11b fingers with real smeary feet. I think it's called crime of the century. That may have been my favorite of the year. I also really enjoyed Even Steven's at Index. [/quote ]

 

I never did do that one because I was too lazy to set a TR on it and too scared to lead it. Looks fun though, maybe next year. for a 7 year old I'd guess its more of a small handcrack.

Blake just reminded me of the 2006 route on Gunsight's East Face. The second pitch (and all the rest really) is up there as one of my favorites.

Posted

this group that was right beside us got all pissed off at him and starting saying stuff like "ego blah blah blah"...i honestly think he wasn't trying to be a smart ass...

 

:lmao: I'm sure their own egos were hurting after being overshadowed by a kid.

Posted

the funny thing was that he was pretty upset over it...i didn't really tell them to shut the f-up, but i should have cuz drew was talking to me not them...punterz...

Posted

no...drew is definitely on crime of the century in that picture...you need glasses...

 

and yes...Penny lane is to the RIGHT of crime...

 

I had an interesting time climbing both routes...(it was kinda wet, actually, really wet)

Posted

Sweet climbing by the young honemaster!

_______________________

my favs of the year.

Las Vegas Limestone

or

Mixed Master final pitch on the Icefields Parkway (ice).

Posted
Sweet climbing by the young honemaster!

_______________________

my favs of the year.

Las Vegas Limestone

or

Mixed Master final pitch on the Icefields Parkway (ice).

 

No sh*t. Rudy, you might ask him what his fav. pitch this year was.

 

I've reconsidered my previous response. It was the entire (complete) SE corner cordless (so as a single pitch) early AM on one of those perfect summer days. To answer the rest of Wills question "What made it so good?" The smell of the dew just burning off in the am as the crisp of the evening departs, and the freedom of easy 600-700' of uninterrupted flow....well, thats what made it so good.

Posted

Good pic of the young-un, RuMR!

This could be a great thread, people, if we post up some pictures with 'em. Let's brighten up these grey days of winter; it's what us cubicle dwellers need these days, good daydream material. So c'mon, post up!

 

Possibly the best pitch I followed, this 3rd pitch of Igor Unchained, up the center of the yellow wall, top:

Needles_2007_024r.jpg

 

Best pitch led was probably the Double Roofs pitch on SEWS, what a wild hang-out over space... but no pics of that one!

Posted

Sick!

 

 

Here's my warm weather pics of one route I noted earlier then. Added a pic of Dream of Wild Turkeys too, 3 -4 real good pitchs that might be best of class except for Jim Dying that very day (at Smith Rocks) and it being his favorite route in the world I think - it was just last November and 75 degrees warm.

 

The 2nd 5.10 pitch on DWT. This is Ujahn, I got the wide one earlier and he had his hands on the belay so theres no pics of that one.

Ujhan_on_P3_of_Wild_Turkeys.jpg

 

Epinephrine_p8_Ujahn.jpg

Bill on the Elephants Trunk below about to slot a wired nut into that stacked block. I'd considered passing on it wondering if it would pull that block in a fall...No helmet either eh...

Bill_leading_the_Elephants_trunk.jpg

 

don't have pics of the other routes, I don't carry a camera when I free solo.

Posted
Let's hear em. What's the best pitch(s) you climbed last year and what made it so good?

away.

 

 

Third pitch of Liquid Gold because it was long, scruffy, and the inconvenient approach keeps people away. The fact I mistakenly thought the rating was about a grade higher than it turned out to be kept it exciting, too, as I kept waiting for the hard part for 70 meters.

 

IMG_4045a.JPG

Posted
I've reconsidered my previous response. It was the entire (complete) SE corner cordless (so as a single pitch) early AM on one of those perfect summer days.

whoa! bill, i thought you didn't go in for such tomfoolery!?! was it a devil that pushed you off the Path of the Prudent? :):P

Posted

I just don't usually talk about it Ivan. Best pitch at Arapiles 10 years ago was an easier steep 1500' free solo I still dream about. (tiptoe ridge 5.5)

 

Better than all the ones I mentioned above. Still remember how sweet that one was.

Posted

Best pitch led was probably the Double Roofs pitch on SEWS, what a wild hang-out over space... but no pics of that one!

 

 

This pitch?

 

 

zg.jpg

 

What route on SEWS is that pitch on? It looks rad

Posted
Did you climb the thin crack to the left of Penny Lane? 11b fingers with real smeary feet. I think it's called crime of the century. That may have been my favorite of the year. I also really enjoyed Even Steven's at Index.

 

My guide calls it 11.c. I top roped it and thought 11.c was spot on. Penny Lane rules……

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