willstrickland Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 Let's hear em. What's the best pitch(s) you climbed last year and what made it so good? For me: Spectreman, Vedauwoo. Just a beautiful line, double overhanging corner starting perfect hands tapering to fingerstacks with one savior fingerlock that ends the crux. Perfect rock, less flaring or grainy than most Vedauwoo fare. Runners up: Mr Natural, Glacier Pt Apron, Yos. Maybe the best 5.10 fingercack of all time. Long pitch, on perfect rock with locker yellow tcus/aliens size fingers forever to a very short thinner crux right at the end of the pitch. Slabby enough that you are mostly on your feet with delicate smearing, edging, and toeing in. Last 25' or so: Energy Crisis, Cream Area, Yos. 80' of dead vertical 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" splitter on excellent rock, in an area almost nobody goes to. Solitude, views, and a wicked pump from the horrible size. All fingerstacks, ringslocks, and thin hands. Inconvenient approach, but that keeps the people away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 Igor Unchained, Needles, CA, Pitch 2 A wide crack connecting two even better pitches. Varied hand jamming, yellow lichen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 how bout best pitch you watched SOMEONE else climb? Mine was watching my boy HIKE full japanese gardens this summer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 I am guessing you mean the full p1 not all four pitches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 yes, we did do full pitch 1 and then did pitch 2...i didn't mention that though, cuz he pissed and moaned about it (he was hungry and wanted to go down)... ...next summer, due to ben et. al's cleaning efforts we'll be doing pitch three and four also... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 Headwall pitch/s on SE Buttress of Cathedral peak. I should have linked them up for the for full-value. Not an action shot, but you can get the general feel: P2 of Fine Jade in the Castle Valley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 Freeforsome 11.a all gear. Beacon Rock This climb cannot be beat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 yes, we did do full pitch 1 and then did pitch 2...i didn't mention that though, cuz he pissed and moaned about it (he was hungry and wanted to go down)... ...next summer, due to ben et. al's cleaning efforts we'll be doing pitch three and four also... The third pitch has a flared corner thats quite a bit like Sloe Children with a bit harder but shorter jamming crux. The last pitch has a fun slabby traverse that's probably easier than rated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 pitch 2 of Overhanging Hangover in Red Rocks. A few things mixed in - some crack, steep but juggy face section, a delicate face finish. Cool position, only 1 pitch up but felt pretty exposed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 sounds good... the real goal for next summer is the grand to bellygood (unless its going super great, in which case we'll keep going)... anyone know what the youngest ascent of the grand is? Dru?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 yes, we did do full pitch 1 and then did pitch 2...i didn't mention that though, cuz he pissed and moaned about it (he was hungry and wanted to go down)... ...next summer, due to ben et. al's cleaning efforts we'll be doing pitch three and four also... The third pitch has a flared corner thats quite a bit like Sloe Children with a bit harder but shorter jamming crux. The last pitch has a fun slabby traverse that's probably easier than rated. actually, now that i think about it, sloe children would be a great one to stick him on next summer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 J Gardens is way harder than the Grand but Roman Chimneys finish really improves the Grand. In 2009 you'll be getting hauled up the U-Wall! LOL Unless you mean the Grand Free! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 i've done the grand a bunch so i know what i'd be getting him into...i think its more of the "i'm tired and want to go down" than the actual climbing per se...he'll be a year older and bigger/stronger next summer and will be climbing with Tyson and the team as soon as skiing is over so i think it'll go ok... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 Mr Natural, Glacier Pt Apron, Yos. Maybe the best 5.10 fingercack of all time. Maybe my single pitch valley favorite too. Like the Dr Feelgood access route too. Wuz talked out of doing it this spring due to the rockfall issue. Best route may be Serenity - Sons of Yesterday. Love the length. You didn't fear all that deadly boulder and rockfall Will? I wanted to do that route, we warmed up on Harry Daley and then moved close to over there on Son of Sam and Lonely Dancer next to it. Too scared to jump on Mr natural, I'd gotten lots of warnings from various folks, and the previous year we could have been buried on the other side of Glacier point in a massive rockfall. We were just off Marginal and starting East over that way towards Ilsa She wolf and ? forget the names (Hoppys?) when all hell cut loose....whew! No one was over there, but it easily could have been fatal. It was friggan huge. Kind of gun shy now but love that area. That stuff was so big on the East side, that 3 of the best helmets in the world wouldn't have mattered. Looking at the result of the fall on the West side, those blocks on the ground looked even bigger. Course, bet you had the route to yourself. Best single pitch....hmmm, maybe the 2nd pitch of Trezlar at Smith, any one of 3 or 4 pitches above the Elephants Trunk on Epi in Red Rocks, or the 2nd pitch of Blownout when I did it with Ujahn. (I fell on it with JH, so it got downrated:-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 Now that it's all cleaned up the new pitch above Rythmn Method is quite nice and varied. But one new pitch in all of 2007? Have got to be a bit more productive in 2008... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 Now that it's all cleaned up the new pitch above Rythmn Method is quite nice and varied. But one new pitch in all of 2007? Have got to be a bit more productive in 2008... Link 07? 06? You might need to toss off some tired old dogma baggage and get out more:-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted January 15, 2008 Author Share Posted January 15, 2008 Bill, I basically make one and only one trip to the Apron on any extended stay. Don't care to hang around there much because of the rockfall history. This time it was a repeat of Cold Fusion (3pitch 10c slab) and Apron Jam->Mr Nat. And yeah, had the entire apron to ourselves. Seems like Goodrich is getting a decent amount of play since it's in the Supertaco free guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 Bill, I basically make one and only one trip to the Apron on any extended stay. Don't care to hang around there much because of the rockfall history. This time it was a repeat of Cold Fusion (3pitch 10c slab) and Apron Jam->Mr Nat. And yeah, had the entire apron to ourselves. Seems like Goodrich is getting a decent amount of play since it's in the Supertaco free guide. Good call, I do envy you being able to live in the valley for an extended time like that. Apron jam just seems like a lot of graceless work. I haven't done it for years. Rowell was always in great shape all his life, I don't think shit like that affected him or slowed him down at all. Maybe it's my pear shaped body type which refuses to fit in there? I do have a possible route eyeballed of a harder, shorter version of that one and recently bought the gear for it, but despite owning larger gear now, my balls still seem excessively small to take a shot. Want to see pictures? The last week I've been mentally working on prepping for a spring time shot at it. There s an easy 5.9 route in Red Rocks called Chrystler Crack I'll look at too next time I'm down there now that I have the wide gear for it. Very similar, but Apron Jam takes some smaller gear, Chrystler crack is strictly a wide off width/squeeze chimney. Goodrich (Right)is a nice route, but it also seems like it is also a fair ways away from all the rockfall on both ends. I almost forgot but I did Cold Fusion as well in between doing Harry Daley and the other 2 routes. Andrew and Dave Hardin let me lead the 3rd pitch, which puts you right above the 2 dudes belying directly below - and if you grease, you land on them and they get to soften the blow! Ha ha, bony dudes would have felt my fat ass landing on them for sure if I'd peeled! Nice route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 Of my gear OMG, pictures of my gear. *blush* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 Tie between 2 pitches for me this year! Managed to get Stems and Seeds clean for my first 11 gear lead! and got on Wartley's Revenge, for my first onsight attempt at 11 on gear :) (didn't get it clean but damn what a climb! Next spring here I come!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 Bill, the Third Rail was '06. Interesting, but I wouldn't call that a 'best' pitch. That next pitch through the roofs may end up taking all of the 2008 season for the 27 gallons of epoxy to harden behind the first block off the high anchor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 joseph, i look forward to getting on those roofs with you next year! here's my favorite: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 Who took the picture Mark? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 jim ablao. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 the most memorable for me was probably the pressure chamber pitch on the snow creek wall, and i didn't even lead that one! the pitch before was the nastiest squeeze chimney i'd ever led, leaving me exhausted, and as my partner completed the last bit of the pitch above in the fading light, i realized i'd have to do that tight-ass chamber in a jacket, w/ headlamp/helmet and pack on. utterly frustrated by an inability to move my head or body while frantically straining to stay put, i slid off into the void, the slender rope ripping over a rock edge as i went careening out in the inky blackness...wow! and then to discover my prusiks wouldn't really work on so thin a rope, even better! i really did enjoy the hell out of that climb though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.