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Rumors of ice?? conditions update??

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"Alex always seems open to name changes out at Strobach when you get the FA."

 

Didn't realize there was a name approval board for climbs anywhere, let alone a dinky little collection of ice in WA lol.

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Lillooet is still good. Locally, probably over except above 5000 or so.

i don't know what gives you this idea? granted there is still some snow on north side of the Chief on some ledges, however freezing levels are waaaay above 2000m!

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Still some climbable ice in Box Canyon as of Saturday. It won't be there for long! Look out for the giant red spot of frozen blood.

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I didn't realize there was a name approval board in Washington either. To my knowledge, there still isn't. Josh, all I was saying is that Alex and Jason, who wrote the guidebook, are tracking FAs in all areas of Washington. If you get the FA, just like any other FA, you can name it. I think that Alex is only naming things so he doesn't have to keep describing them in the guide with long, directional names. As for Strobach being small, name another reliable ice climbing area that has over 30 routes in Oregon, WA, or ID that is larger besides Banks. At Banks the climbs are pretty spread out. Same as Lillloet. Largets concentration of known ice in the pacific Northwest on one cliff face. Ever been there Josh?

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Lillooet is still good. Locally, probably over except above 5000 or so.

i don't know what gives you this idea? granted there is still some snow on north side of the Chief on some ledges, however freezing levels are waaaay above 2000m!

 

Shriek of the Sheep is in real good shape. You should go get on that rig glass! I imagine you probably have, but it's gonna be there for a while as a lot of the north facing stuff in the Bridge.

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I didn't realize there was a name approval board in Washington either. To my knowledge, there still isn't. Josh, all I was saying is that Alex and Jason, who wrote the guidebook, are tracking FAs in all areas of Washington. If you get the FA, just like any other FA, you can name it. I think that Alex is only naming things so he doesn't have to keep describing them in the guide with long, directional names. As for Strobach being small, name another reliable ice climbing area that has over 30 routes in Oregon, WA, or ID that is larger besides Banks. At Banks the climbs are pretty spread out. Same as Lillloet. Largets concentration of known ice in the pacific Northwest on one cliff face. Ever been there Josh?

 

Strobach is the largest concentration of hard ice (and ice in general) in Washington outside of Banks. The only reason I've named some of the shit is because it gets awful old calling stuff "Unnamed Strobach A" or "First Unnamed Climb on the Right of Foo". Evenso, for a long time Jason and I went through the motions of calling stuff "Unnamed Soap Lake A" and so on, exactly because we knew climbers would be sensitive to naming without "FA rights". That said, I am trying - I got the FA on Dropline last year with Jeff, and another route, and two more this year that Jeff had named but I will rename now with the "FA rights" ha! Jeff finally got the FA on Right Stuff, but declined to name it something different: it doesnt really matter in the end, it's just climbing. But if you (JoshK or anyone else) put in the work, you can name shit whatever the hell you want. No one really cares one way or the other. Only about 10 or 15 people have ever put in the work to go into Strobach more than once; they ain't complaining and I respect their opinions on the naming of our local routes over armchair tools any day.

 

Largets concentration of known ice in the pacific Northwest on one cliff face.

 

Yeah its not quite Willoughby, but it's all we got! My partner Dan who just returned to the PNW after 2 years ice climbing out East wasn't unhappy with the place.

 

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Lillooet is still good. Locally, probably over except above 5000 or so.

i don't know what gives you this idea? granted there is still some snow on north side of the Chief on some ledges, however freezing levels are waaaay above 2000m!

 

A bunch of friends (not just Scott, Pat, and Jens) have been climbing up in Lil'wet the last week, and things up high and North facing are still in good shape.

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Only about 10 or 15 people have ever put in the work to go into Strobach more than once; they ain't complaining and I respect their opinions on the naming of our local routes over armchair tools any day.

 

...and with all the work Jason and Alex did putting the guide together along with all the crap they had to deal with from the Mounties in the process, I don't know why anyone would want to bitch about the names they decided to write even without the FA. This isn't trying to solve world peace or anything :crazy:

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Pacific Northwest is only in the U.S. Canada doesn't count anyways Dru! Just out of curiosity, what would you say has more than 30 multi-pitch ice routes on a single cliff line in the Pacific Northwest? Eastern BC does not count as PNW nor does MT or WY or UT. Lillooet is too spread out. Banks has more climbs in total but again, more spread out. So......do tell.....

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While you guys were bickering about naming routes, I went out and climbed some.

 

I'm hella stylish.

 

n39203244_31305445_8951.jpg

 

Apparently the falls is not in good climbing shape right now.

 

n39203244_31305460_3548.jpg

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For those of you still chasing ice, the Baker Ski Area still has it. Pan Dome, East Table Three, Death Picnic, and other assorted lines are all still in. most look pretty blue--almost Canadian.

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climbed Pan Dome yesterday. good sticks and mostly good pro. given the forecast, it looks like it will probably stay in for 2 more weeks.

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