jared_j Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 What are ya'll's recommended chimney routes (or at least routes with significant chimenying) in Washington? I don't really have much chimney experience, but would like to tighten up that aspect of my trad game. Thinking about a trip in a few months to Red Rocks, and I'm curious about climbing Epinephrine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 go to squamish...hike to the cirque of the uncrackables...thrash...repeat... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 Aries (?) at Index got a short flared chimney. Stanley-Burgner rotue on S. face of Prusik got a nice chimney. Damnation Crack at Lworth got a nice if short chimney section. 7-Virgins in Vantage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 (edited) Aries (?) at Index got a short flared chimney. Stanley-Burgner rotue on S. face of Prusik got a nice chimney. Damnation Crack at Lworth got a nice if short chimney section. 7-Virgins in Vantage. Seven Virgins and a Mule isn't hard enough, although it's fun. There is a somewhat harder chimney at Middle East Wall that's a 5.8. (name is not coming to me right now) Â Add to the list Battered Sandwich at Private Idaho, Index and the Northwest Corner of NEWS. Edited September 17, 2007 by catbirdseat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 R&D in Leavenworth has an easy chimney. At the top of the route, there is a more difficult chimney in the ground. Staying along the cliff edge, head to climber's right and look down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 Sunshine Chimney South, Centre and North, and Hiphugger, in the Bulletheads. Â Satans Slit at the Bluffs. Â Navy Seals at Seal Cove. Â Kneewrecker Chimney. Â Tall Skinny People. If you can do this you will have no problems with Epinephrine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Choada_Boy Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 Split Beaver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 not really a "chimney"... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 I always like to recommend the beautiful Rollercoaster Chimney at Midnight Rock. A Beckey classic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 madsen's chimney in leavenworth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstach Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 There is a single pitch 5.8 test chimney at the Yin and Yang area in Red Rocks....here is a pic. Â Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 (edited) wow....that's almost like chimneying... Edited September 18, 2007 by RuMR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 you can also try Beulah's Book (3 pitches at base of Solar Slab) in Red Rocks - pretty much like Epinephrine but only 20 feet long  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 Check out that cam placement. A good one to sling long, the way it flares upward. A #11 hex would be good there endwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 Check out that cam placement. A good one to sling long, the way it flares upward. A #11 hex would be good there endwise. not my cam & not my photo but from what I remember a #4 or something worked fine somewhere there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 I'd use a wedged knot...B O M B E R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 I'd use a wedged knot...B O M B E R Now you're talking, man! Something like an enormous monkey fist, should do the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 actually, i'd just grab the nearest 6 year old kid, tie a rope around him and have him ropegun it for me...now that's BOMBER... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZONK Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 "Open Wide" in Leavenworth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
octopuswithafez Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 What are ya'll's recommended chimney routes (or at least routes with significant chimenying) in Washington? I don't really have much chimney experience, but would like to tighten up that aspect of my trad game. Thinking about a trip in a few months to Red Rocks, and I'm curious about climbing Epinephrine. Â Â Â "This route has been the the subject of much controversy over the years, and many have been arrested for scaling this forbidden spire. The route was bolted every 10 ft or so in the 70s with hangerless 1/4" bolts. Most would forego a rope and solo up and down the 180 feet. However, during a 1999 ascent which lead to a public arrest, the lower 3/4 of the route's bolts were chopped. There is now only about two or three remaining bolts near the top. Be careful when scaling these towers due to PI patrols every 15 minutes." Â alpinedave's topo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 Don't forget the Chimney on Orbit. Oodles of fun that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jared_j Posted September 18, 2007 Author Share Posted September 18, 2007 Too bad about the unprotectability / illegality... Looks like it'd be perfect practice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wakaranai Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 Check out Right Wing in Squamish. It has some great chimney/squeeze sections and the "whats left" pitch is a-typical wide crack climbing. Great exposure, and pitch 2 is the most sustained 10b/c in squamish. Bring the whole rack! -B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 Lamplighter at Index Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 and pitch 2 is the most sustained 10b/c in squamish. -B Â ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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