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Jeepenfool95

Revision three of the Portland rock guide.

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So... I just bought the new Portland Rock guide to see what would be in it.

 

First, as much as we have talked about poor old lake "O", there's still no mention of it in the book.

 

Second, without disclosing any names or mile markers, because I don't want all of Hell's furry and on-line slander coming down on me for saying the wrong thing. There is a little area in WA that hasn't made it into the book either. I thought that it was funny too, because I just saw the note, the "Chop Chop" subject was referring to this last week. Is the area supposed to be on a Super Double Secret Probation or something. I'd love to get some better Beta on the area, but it seems like a big "hush hush, it's my private play ground" kind of spot.

 

Third, and I'm sure there is more to talk about, I like that the topos have been updated with pictures of the rock. It will help a lot when trying to find some of the more obscure lines at Broughton. Speaking of which, I climbed "dynamic Friction" yesterday, I'm really glad I was cleaning and not leading.

 

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you can have all the top-secret beta, you just have to take the siegfried oath first...

 

...and based on the dozen cars that frequently seem to be parked there (even when it's a beautiful day for beacon just a few more miles away) it's hardly secret, just not in a big guide-book

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Anyone have a copy yet?

 

My original message

 

So... I just bought the new Portland Rock guide to see what would be in it.

 

 

maybe he meant other than you . wayne is an old school gorge climber and he's got my respect. if there is a history section in the book you might take notice he has quite a few first ascents in the portland area. don't shit where you eat dude.

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I can already tell that the one thing I will trully love about communicating on this site, is that anyone and everyone can take anything out of context.

 

I actually figured that he was referring to someone he may know, yet at the same time doesn't the question seem odd when I started the post with "I just bought a book". Maybe something like "has anyone I know bought one? any of my favorite locals bought one?".

 

As for "shitting where I eat", everybody on this site is disrespectful to one another in one way or the other. The precedent was set long before my reply.

 

I apologoze if I mis-stepped. However I don't know you and you don't know me, and I surely don't know everyone that replies to every message. I was merely carrying on, IMO, the merry jabbing that goes back and forth so frequently.

 

"So get off your fence, and come down here, because rock and roll ain't no riddle man, to me it makes good, good, sense"

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the truth hurts :)

 

yeah, so is the i-rock section expanded?? the 2nd edition didn't have much but some lame descriptions...

 

no real need for a guide for the prg's outdoor site - the smallness of the wall and the chalk on every remotely concievably hold is plenty enough beta - and truly a fun place to climb too, just many notches below the magnificent beacon w/ all it's verticality and wildlife and vistas

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no, I-rock is not mentioned at all in the new Olson guide.

It covers Broughton, Rocky, Carver, Beacon, and French's.

It includes some slightly better topos, and a lot more pictures. But it doesn't include the section in the back on the more obscure/adventure areas, or the gorge ice.

Also, it does not list the FA information anymore either

 

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no, I-rock is not mentioned at all in the new Olson guide.

It covers Broughton, Rocky, Carver, Beacon, and French's.

It includes some slightly better topos, and a lot more pictures. But it doesn't include the section in the back on the more obscure/adventure areas, or the gorge ice.

Also, it does not list the FA information anymore either

 

sounds like a step down to me, that old adventure section was really cool, same with having the ice in there... wtfs up with this new breed of shitty oregon books now :(

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Also the new book is a little larger and doesn't pack quite as easy as the older one.

 

I bought one just for Sh@$'s and giggles, but I think it will spend more time on the shelf than at the crag.

 

I liked that the Beacon area was updated with the same topo used on the poster. I wish we had had that about two years ago the first time I went up. Though we were lucky enough to have great big arrows scratched into the rock for us, so we found our way OK.

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Though we were lucky enough to have great big arrows scratched into the rock for us, so we found our way OK.

 

:mad::mad::mad:

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also heard the xavier master's wacked-out peyote story got the chop

 

fawking retarded that all the adventure shit got the boot

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no, I-rock is not mentioned at all in the new Olson guide.

It covers Broughton, Rocky, Carver, Beacon, and French's.

It includes some slightly better topos, and a lot more pictures. But it doesn't include the section in the back on the more obscure/adventure areas, or the gorge ice.

Also, it does not list the FA information anymore either

 

sounds like a step down to me, that old adventure section was really cool, same with having the ice in there... wtfs up with this new breed of shitty oregon books now :(

 

it is my understanding that this book is almost like a "sample" and another addition will be coming out after six months or so.

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Wayne,

so when you were up there, did you check out & do you recall the names of some other folks who've done it & signed the register (your ascent was #13 right)? do you remember any names by chance? There's a gentleman (Don Baars, FA of Steins & 2nd ascent of St. Petes) who's trying to piece together the history of St. Peters climbs. Thanks!

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I have the info, I copied the register by hand and turned it over to the mazama historical. I can dig it out,

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Ok there must have been another summit register that was pulled off after his ascent.There is a big blank between 194 and 1958, When did he do it? Here is what I pieced together from the Dodge guide

1940 Orig. ascent party of 5

1958 NE Face party of 2

1965 Var. of orig rt party of 3

 

Then the register had the following:

Nov 12 62 Party of (claiming the 2nd ascent of NE face) Bob Martin, Eugene Dod, Dave Jensen, and Kim Smitz

 

Sept 7 1963 (3rd Ascent NE Face) Dean Caldwell, Bryan Babcock

 

Nov 30 63 S rt Gerald Bjorkman ,Ted Davis, Kim Smitz

 

Jan 4 64 (must have been a mild winter?)Alan abixas Jim Berge, Kim Hink.

 

Mar 4 64 Ted Davis Dave Chattin,,

 

8-9-64 Ted Davis, Allen Smith,Bill Cummins The Day after the N face of Crown Point

 

8-29-65 Bill Cummins, Ted Davis Dick Scheideman

 

5-6-67 Mazama Adv School: Bill Cummins,Larry Sandstrom, Art Revel,Thomas Plaaman, Jim Nieland, Scott Arighi, Robin Baker

 

9-28-68 Glen and Don Kirkpatrick

 

9-16-72 Dean Fry, Paul Fry

 

6-17-77 Dave Zimmerman, Will Tuttle, Ted Mayfield

 

6-19-94 WW solo

 

There was some interesting banter in there especially when Ted Davis was involved. He must have been quite the character. He is known to have done the 1st ascent of the Black Spider, I suspect it was up the rt I call the Davis Ramp though I cant be sure. It is the only way up it I would solo comfortably. He is rumored to have left for Canada when his draft card came up. Let me know if I can be of further help, Wayne

 

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