Jeepenfool95

Also the new book is a little larger and doesn't pack quite as easy as the older one. I bought one just for Sh@$'s and giggles, but I think it will spend more time on the shelf than at the crag. I liked that the Beacon area was updated with the same topo used on the poster. I wish we had had that about two years ago the first time I went up. Though we were lucky enough to have great big arrows scratched into the rock for us, so we found our way OK.

I don't know that area very well, but I think if you were to get the "Climbing Oregon: Falcon Guide". I believe there was a lot of information in their for that neck of the woods.

I can already tell that the one thing I will trully love about communicating on this site, is that anyone and everyone can take anything out of context. I actually figured that he was referring to someone he may know, yet at the same time doesn't the question seem odd when I started the post with "I just bought a book". Maybe something like "has anyone I know bought one? any of my favorite locals bought one?". As for "shitting where I eat", everybody on this site is disrespectful to one another in one way or the other. The precedent was set long before my reply. I apologoze if I mis-stepped. However I don't know you and you don't know me, and I surely don't know everyone that replies to every message. I was merely carrying on, IMO, the merry jabbing that goes back and forth so frequently.

I was hoping for a picture of him where his hair all screwy, and he showing nothing but that pot belly. The best shot would be when he's selling condoms at the bowling alley, that's the photo I want.

My original message

I'm often curious as to what they say from behind the counter. When referring to me they probably say "look at that bald fat dude check'n out the honey's, for a guy in his thirties, who thinks he's in twenties, sure looks like he's in his forties." Actually, I'm quit the handsome devil, and all the woman love me. Especially the girl behind the counter. Crap! I was hoping for a really good photo of Woody Harrelson from "King Pin", That would have been perfect here.

This maybe to little to late... But... if your looking for climbing partners, try going to your local climbing gym first. The people that are nice to you, offer you a belay when they notice you are by yourself, and give you constructive beta without being condenscending are probably going to be good climbing partners. The folks that snub there nose at you, flash routes after you fall off a couple of times just to show you how it's done, but never actually tell you how it is done, are probably bad choices for partners. My reccomendation if your going to pick a climber based on just looking at this site. Read, read, read, and read some more, you can tell a lot about a person's presonality from how they respond to others. Some folks are nice, others... not so much. Read through the rock climbing forums and trip reports and you'll get an idea of who you can trust and those that you are thankful that you don't have to use your real name when posting. Best of luck from PDX

To tell you the truth I'm not sure what the name of it is, but it's a great shot of the climber. It looks like his head is going to pop he's straining so hard.

So... I just bought the new Portland Rock guide to see what would be in it. First, as much as we have talked about poor old lake "O", there's still no mention of it in the book. Second, without disclosing any names or mile markers, because I don't want all of Hell's furry and on-line slander coming down on me for saying the wrong thing. There is a little area in WA that hasn't made it into the book either. I thought that it was funny too, because I just saw the note, the "Chop Chop" subject was referring to this last week. Is the area supposed to be on a Super Double Secret Probation or something. I'd love to get some better Beta on the area, but it seems like a big "hush hush, it's my private play ground" kind of spot. Third, and I'm sure there is more to talk about, I like that the topos have been updated with pictures of the rock. It will help a lot when trying to find some of the more obscure lines at Broughton. Speaking of which, I climbed "dynamic Friction" yesterday, I'm really glad I was cleaning and not leading.

I wouldn't say that a world class climber may not stop by for a burn, rather I don't think the site will be hosting any major compettions or conventions. I like reading about the ethics of bolting though. In fact I'm very happy that I live in area that does bolt. I'm still a member of another climbing post "NE Rock Club", and those guys in CT are a little nuts about the no bolting issue. There are no, from my understanding, bolted routes in Connecticut, not even bolted anchors. Anyway... I think I'm going to day dream about my upcoming trip.

start = quote=nosepicker in between is [ ] with the Q on quote the first letter, no space, and the R on nosepicker the last letter before the second bracket. finish = Start = I think I'm getting the hang of it now. I quoted myself with a statement I never made... Ahhhh it makes my brain hurt. Anyway I could see where you could really irritate the Pi$$ out of someone by manipulating their quote. Here is a silly question... Is this just straight HTML code, or is it something else?

start in downtown LO by the starbucks, walk north one block, then west two blocks, pass three clothing boutiques, a gourmet chocolate place and another starbucks, then stop and listen for the telltale sounds of a bolting ethics debate. you'll find it no problem. That's funny...

Thanks I'll have to practice. I want to be cool like everybody else And thank you for letting me vent...

One quick question... I'm still getting used to using the site. I wanted my quote to appear in one of those cool little boxes. I used the quote button, but it still came out as a regualr reply. Should I have used the quick quote button instead?

B) There are many people who climb there who are beginners. Climb at your own risk. I just read this thread and I wanted to respond to this particular statement. Especially since, so many folks were kind enough to tell me that my grilfriend will likely kill me someday when she had an accident belaying. Lake O is just a small crag that is enjoyed by a lot of beginners. I understand that climbing has risks associated it with it and there is no replacement for good judgment. However, beginners do need to pratice, and what better place to practice than an over bolted piece of rock next to some train tracks. It's not a pretty area, not a lot of people go there, and I'm fairly sure it won't be home to any world class climbers. So... when I read a statement like "climb at your own risk" after referenceing the inconveince of beginners, I get a little frustrated. One of the aspects I most enjoy about climbing is the community of climbers. That people are generally looking out for one another. Though there seems to be some climbers out there that popped out of the womb hang dogging on 12a, and never had to go through the unfortunate status of being a "beginner". I commend and thank whoever bolted the lines at Lake "O". Yeah the 11- is a little wierd, but nobody is twisting your arm to lead it iether. You give beginners crap because they need to "sack up" to lead something that is over there head, and then turn around and say another route doesn't have enough bolts in the right place. Seems inconsistant to me... I think there bigger fish to fry than the climbing at Lake "O".

The route that we started on was not nearly as rotten. I lead the route first to make sure that it was safe. Plus I knew that the five year old would only get a few feet off the ground anyway. The second route I set up was for the older daughter. Though in retro-spect, I probably would have chosen a differnet route after I climbed it. I did not realize how loos the rock was until I got on the secodn route.

She has plenty of practice, and has belayed me often, I trust her with my life. I think that it was a conflict of interest "Do my kids get hit with a rock, or do I ignore them". I accept the repsonsibility of the incident. I should of had an additional adult there to watch the children. Also, I got some more information on treating the wounds. When their deep like they are, the fingers need to keep moving, it will hurt, but it will keep the fingers from freeezing due to deep scarring. Thank you for all of the other treatment advice as well, I will give her this information tonight.

I'm buying her gloves as soon as hers hands are healed enough to try them on. Her hands were burned pretty baddly. One of the pads on her right hand, finger next to the pinky finger, had burned pretty deep into the meat. We're leaving for Lake Tahoe, in two weeks, I don't think we will be climbing yet. Just watching from the ground, I think.

Trip: Oregon Cascades - Salmon Slab (Zig Zag) / Belay accident report Date: 9/2/2007 Trip Report: Hello All, I just wanted to write a quick report from my trip this last weekend. I climbed at Salmon Slab, located just south of Zig Zag. I took my girlfriend, and her two girls. The Slab isn't to difficult, there are two or three 5.7's a couple of 5.8's, and one 5.9 (that I didn't get to climb). I started on the 5.7 on the far left, it was an easy run and it seemed like a good climb for this kids, who are 5 and 9. The nine year old made it all the way to the top on her second try. We moved over to another 5.7 (second from the far right)with a bit of a bulge in the beginning, that turns into an easy low angle slab. I started climbing and noticed there was a lot of loose rock. I looked down as I heard my girlfriend telling her youngest to stay away from the wall while I'm climbing. I also explained to her youngest the danger of standing next to the wall. I clipped my third bolt and was about halfway to the next when I grabbed a juggy hold that came off in my hand when I pulled. I went backwards as I fell. My girlfriend saw me fall, but had been distracted by her youngest who was continuing to stand in the fall zone. My girlfriend did not have a tight hand on the brake, and I grounded. She was able to slow my fall, and suffered severe burns on both hands because of it. I was very lucky, she broke my fall enough for my feet to get underneath me, and I glanced off the slab just before the ground which seemed to sluff off some of my momentum. I apparently did a good rag doll impression too, and was able to crumple up at the bottom. My only injury was a pretty good rock rash on my elbow. As soon as I got up, I checked my girlfriend who was quite distraught with having just let me fall. I knew she was watching her kids instead of me (which I understand), and as bad as the situation is or could have been, I wasn't upset with her. So Beta for climbers at Salmon Slab, be careful... some of the rock is rotten even though it looks OK. Also, this is a very good example why the belayer has to be able to pay complete and total attention on the climber. I really enjoyed taking her girls out to the crag, but we are going to have work on some awareness issues, and listening issues too. Approach Notes: Look out for nails and broken glass when you park.

Trip: North Cascades - (SEWS) South Early Winter Spire Date: 8/27/2007 Trip Report: Bear with me folks, this is my first trip report. An old buddy of mine used to do these, but he past away about two years ago doing what he loved. Anyway, this first report is dedicated to the memory of John Z. Andrew North and I climbed the SEWS on Monday Aug 27. The weather was beautiful, though it was a little chilly in the morning. This made the rock a little chilly to the touch, but after the first pitch my hands didn't care anymore, there was plenty of blood running through them. We made out approach via the parking lot and headed up to the South Early winter Spire, we met a few folks doing guided trips up the South arete (which we would later descend). We planned to climb the (as I believe) the south west rib (I think it is the classic route for SEWS). We planned a variation of the beginning, skipping the traverse out of the coular. The beta we had showed a 5.8 and 5.6 variation. Hoping to do the 5.6 variation, I began traversing across some low angle slabs up to an open book crack system just above and to the right of the tree. There was a small tree growing out of the crack that made one of the moves a little balancey. Above that, the rock steepened and my gear placements were less often. I was able to keep good hands in the crack with very sticky feet. However the crack ran out, and the slab got steeper than I had expected. I tried to make the move and slipped. Andrew came up behind me and was able to make the move. The top of the bulge had a descent location for a small sized cam as he prepared for the short traverse into an obvious crack/flake to the left. Andrew was able to make the move and get up to the bottom of the first real pitch of the climb the 5.8 crack. Compared to the rest of the climb the first pitch was the spiciest. The rest of the climb was uneventful and I had the privilege of leading the 5.6 black slab. It was a little airy, but from everything I had read prior to the climb, I was expecting it to be more exposed. I felt really comfortable on it. In retrospect we probably could have simul-climbed the last bit, but since it was our first time on the route we set up belays more than we probably needed to. We topped out and traversed over to the South Arete where we made our way down. There were a couple of tricky spots that actually required some down climbing and then we were on on the rappel. I think we rapped off the wrong tree, as we started the rappel we could see a much larger tree off to our right (climbers right) that looked like it would have been much better. We got to the bottom, and walked back to the big tree and put our shoes on. The hike was really pleasant, and to top it off we had a couple of cold ones sitting in the cooler in the car. It was a great trip, and I can't wait to get back up there and do it again. Charlie

No, but thanks anyway, I have a pretty good crew right now. Though, I'm always looking for folks who can climb during the day on Monday and Tuesdays. As for the other, I just thought I'd try and find a female partner this way. In retro-spec, seems pretty futile. I am heading to Smith this weekend, hoping that it won't be to swamped.

Does that mean you want to climb this weekend, or just a sarcastic accusation of my percieved intent?

Specifically... I'm looking for someone of the female persuasion who would like to go outside and play. I've lead 10c sport, and up to 5.9 trad. I have all of my own gear. I'm really just looking for a girl 25-40 who'd like to go climbing with me. If you'd like to trade pics E-mail me.

Ok I sorta jumped to the end, so that I could put in my two cents. However, I have strong feelings about this subject, as I stopped climbing wiht my former Ice climbing partner, becuase I didn't feel he was respectful to other climbers. We, were an odd pair, he was very experienced, world class, and I'm new to the sport, but in his words "a natural ice climber." So we complimented each other well. Last year we were climbing in Lee Vining California, and my partner, showed me his worst side. He was climbing a route other folks were setting up TR's on, and blowing off other climbers that he said he would help. All in all, just being a total ass to anyone that couldn't climb WI5 smooth and easy. I love ice climbing, in fact I may like it more than rock, but I think safety is the single most important aspect of the sport. Part of safety is being repsectful to other climbers, like not climbing on someone else line. A good example is the folks who died on Mt. Hood not to long ago, their lack of patience cost peoples lives. I know its frustrating to get to a route, and someone is on it already, you'll just have to wake up earlier next time. Experienced climbers have the responsibility of looking out and respecting new climbers, no matter what kind of asshole they are. New climbers have the responsibility of asking questions and ensuring that what they are doing is both safe, and respectful of other climbers. I stopped climbing with my former partner, becuase he was a total ass on the ice, and regretably he passed away over the last summer, and I'll never get to work out our issues. It was his recklessness and lack of respect for others that partially lead to his untimely passing. So, just like walking away from a route when the conditions are bad, I'll walk away form a climb where the climbers are not willing to respect other climbers, it just as dangerouse. I'll put the soap box away now, Thank you.

Cluck! cluck.. Cluckity cluck cluck... Bwaaaauck "plop" Cluck cluck cluck I think its passed, I'll tel you though, laying those eggs hurts like hell. They don't come out where you think they would.