Knottygirl Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 sooo its one of my climbing partners b-day coming up and he's just getting into lead climbing. i want to get him a pair of nuts. (i'm going with two because i don't want to go overboard). so i'm wondering which sizes are used the most and would be good as duplicates since he'll probally buy a set of nuts soon. thanks much! Quote
cj001f Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 The Derek Hersey models would cover all situations. Quote
catbirdseat Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 The two BD/Smiley sizes I use most often are #8 and #9. Quote
pink Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 sooo its one of my climbing partners b-day coming up and he's just getting into lead climbing. i want to get him a pair of nuts. (i'm going with two because i don't want to go overboard). so i'm wondering which sizes are used the most and would be good as duplicates since he'll probally buy a set of nuts soon. thanks much! Â two nuts will get you up alot. how about a #5 & #6 wildcountry (rocks). Quote
layton Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 (edited) Two red black diamond nuts, no question, hands down, the best size. That and a yellow alien will get you up anything. Edited August 30, 2007 by layton Quote
Dannible Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 Funny, I was gonna say that wildcountry nuts suck. I have a few and I don't know why, but for me they never seem to fit right. Now I only bring them when I might want something to leave behind. DMMs are numero uno. Quote
kevino Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 Two nuts are good. One nut removal tool is the perfect phallic shaped object to round out the present. Quote
selkirk Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 Will second the DMM's Best ones out there IMHO. Go for any two that are roughly finger sized. Quote
fenderfour Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 "Grow a sack and buy some nuts" Â -Comment to a sport climber Quote
counterfeitfake Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 Red number seven BD just like Mike said. Or blue number seven ABC Huevo... same thing but cheaper. I've got three of them on my rack. Quote
billcoe Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 Will second the DMM's Best ones out there IMHO. Go for any two that are roughly finger sized. Â 3RD for DMM. They are the lightest/strongest out there. Quote
Knottygirl Posted August 30, 2007 Author Posted August 30, 2007 does climbmax sell DMM thanks guys! i appreciate the help! Quote
G-spotter Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 dmm's are alright but get stuck easier it seems cuz half the dmms on my rack are booty i found at squamish  i'd recommend the wild country rocks.  bd stoppers are junk. Quote
G-spotter Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 as to what size to get - the #4 and #5 wc or dmm (wc and dmm are same size and numbering) are the finger crack bizniss. they get placed the most. Quote
catbirdseat Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 (edited) dmm's are alright but get stuck easier it seems cuz half the dmms on my rack are booty i found at squamish i'd recommend the wild country rocks.  bd stoppers are junk. I don't know how you can say this when possibly half the climbers use them. They are essentially the same as ABC Huevos/Smileys, except that they are a bit sharper on the corners. I don't like the Wildcountry because they don't have a transverse taper on the wide axis, which I find to be so useful in placements involving shallow, flared cracks. They are probably the only stopper that does not have this taper.  I do love the DMM and have not found them to get stuck any easier than the Smileys. They do place better in certain situations. The large DMMs, especially, are a lot lighter than similar sized nuts of other brands. Edited August 30, 2007 by catbirdseat Quote
hefeweizen Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 (edited) I've got 1 1/2 sets of BD stoppers that have endured abuse for 10 years, they are all still in fine operating condition. I also have a set of DMM's that I really like. I find that the two brands fit in different types of rock better. DMM's for the tuff and other stuff given to weird shapes, the stoppers always get the nod on granite. Â The BD sizes that I am a happy man when placing: 8,9,10 (fingers). Edited August 30, 2007 by hefeweizen Quote
G-spotter Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 dmm's are alright but get stuck easier it seems cuz half the dmms on my rack are booty i found at squamish i'd recommend the wild country rocks.  bd stoppers are junk. I don't know how you can say this when possibly half the climbers use them.  American climbers use'm cause they are American made and relatively cheap. Nobody else does. Quote
rob Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 Make sure you pick the right brand of nuts, it's REALLY REALLY important  Quote
billcoe Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 Dude you're such a ...a Canadian. Â BTW, dump that avatar pic of Bat Boy will ya. Too disturbing. Quote
RuMR Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 #7 or #8 HB aluminum offset and #4 HB brass offset... Â i use these ALL the time... Quote
counterfeitfake Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 American climbers use'm cause they are American made and relatively cheap. Nobody else does. Â "Cheap and effective?? BAH!" Â Almost as good as saying we shouldn't use leashes because nobody in Europe does. Quote
G-spotter Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 #7 or #8 HB aluminum offset and #4 HB brass offset... Â i use these ALL the time... Â HB went out of business. DMM makes the same nut now from the Hugh Banner design. Quote
G-spotter Posted August 30, 2007 Posted August 30, 2007 American climbers use'm cause they are American made and relatively cheap. Nobody else does. Â "Cheap and effective?? BAH!" Â Almost as good as saying we shouldn't use leashes because nobody in Europe does. Â It's like driving a Ford Taurus instead of a Subaru. It might be cheaper but you know it's not as good. Quote
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