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two nuts....to start a rack


Knottygirl

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sooo its one of my climbing partners b-day coming up and he's just getting into lead climbing. i want to get him a pair of nuts. (i'm going with two because i don't want to go overboard). so i'm wondering which sizes are used the most and would be good as duplicates since he'll probally buy a set of nuts soon.

thanks much!

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sooo its one of my climbing partners b-day coming up and he's just getting into lead climbing. i want to get him a pair of nuts. (i'm going with two because i don't want to go overboard). so i'm wondering which sizes are used the most and would be good as duplicates since he'll probally buy a set of nuts soon.

thanks much!

 

two nuts will get you up alot. how about a #5 & #6 wildcountry (rocks).

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dmm's are alright but get stuck easier it seems cuz half the dmms on my rack are booty i found at squamish

 

i'd recommend the wild country rocks.

 

bd stoppers are junk.

I don't know how you can say this when possibly half the climbers use them. They are essentially the same as ABC Huevos/Smileys, except that they are a bit sharper on the corners.

 

I don't like the Wildcountry because they don't have a transverse taper on the wide axis, which I find to be so useful in placements involving shallow, flared cracks. They are probably the only stopper that does not have this taper.

 

I do love the DMM and have not found them to get stuck any easier than the Smileys. They do place better in certain situations. The large DMMs, especially, are a lot lighter than similar sized nuts of other brands.

Edited by catbirdseat
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I've got 1 1/2 sets of BD stoppers that have endured abuse for 10 years, they are all still in fine operating condition. I also have a set of DMM's that I really like. I find that the two brands fit in different types of rock better. DMM's for the tuff and other stuff given to weird shapes, the stoppers always get the nod on granite.

 

The BD sizes that I am a happy man when placing: 8,9,10 (fingers).

Edited by hefeweizen
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dmm's are alright but get stuck easier it seems cuz half the dmms on my rack are booty i found at squamish

 

i'd recommend the wild country rocks.

 

bd stoppers are junk.

I don't know how you can say this when possibly half the climbers use them.

 

American climbers use'm cause they are American made and relatively cheap. Nobody else does.

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American climbers use'm cause they are American made and relatively cheap. Nobody else does.

 

"Cheap and effective?? BAH!"

 

Almost as good as saying we shouldn't use leashes because nobody in Europe does.

 

It's like driving a Ford Taurus instead of a Subaru. It might be cheaper but you know it's not as good.

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