Adding Cams to Trad Rack

[b-rock]

Ok, I'm sure to get all kinds of differing opinions on this one, but I need some advice on picking up some cams to add to my fledgling trad rack of BD stoppers and miscellanious tricams. I'm new to placing pro and am starting to get decent with placing the stoppers, but I feel somewhat limited in many situations, namely larger and parallel cracks.

 

Any thoughts on Rock Empire Robot Cams? They seem to be cheaper. Or should I stick with Metolious or BD and get fewer? Advice on sizes that are most versatile? Thanks.

[erik]

brock,

 

start with sizes that you feel less secure with. slughtly larger and slightly smaller then hands.

 

i am sure everyone has a preference on what cams to buy, but they all work. if money is an issue then concentrate on the finding deals or going with a less expensive brand. if not, go for what you think is the best cam for your money.

 

one thing to note, is that some of the cheaper cams may not last as long/ durability issues.

 

best= black diamond

best deal= trango

[Peter_Puget]

I am in the minority but I say consider the old style friends. The are cheap and robust enough to last the rest of your climbing days. If you can get to MEC you can get them plenty cheap. In the smaller sizes tho the flexible cam does come in handy more often than the larger sizes.

[Yos]

If you need to save money for more important things (women & beer), pick up a rack of cheapo cams from acmeclimbing, rockempire, etc. Not as smooth but just as durable and they'll catch ya if you fall.

[Matt]

Just my opinion, I may be right or wrong, but...

 

1st, buy a set of hexes. With a set of stoppers and a set of hexes you can climb almost any alpine route.

 

2nd, get four el cheapo cams: .5, .75, 1, 2 (matching BD sizes)

 

3rd, climb your brains out and if you still love it you will find the money for a set of Black Diamond Camalots.

 

4th, do what you can to scrounge for booty. You'd be surprised how much free gear is out there.

 

Good luck.

[Highlander]

I would stay with these brands wild country, Black diamond, Metolius, and Aliens (for small sizes). You can get forged friends fairly cheap. Then double those with camalots 1,2,3 when you have the money. Metolius TCU's are good for small pieces, but I prefer Aliens.

[Cpt.Caveman]

Old style friend are great workhorses. I have 2 or 3 of these.

 

BLack D makes good cams but I dont prefer them unless they are the 3 and 4.

 

I think Metolius are great and so are ALIENS!

[Jens]

Forged Friends....

 

*Superlight

*predicatlbe loading

*don't walk

*last forever

*Feature a 70's patent on an optimum cam angle that the other guys drool for. BD got around this by making a double axle but their cams way a ton.

*You will only need to tie them off a lot if you climb at the gunks.

*are tough

 

Or better yet, get them as booty cams.

Seven of the cams on my rack were "stuck" on routes.

[arlen]

I got some Robots, and climbed with them and my pardner's Camalots. The Robots are liable to pivot on the two middle cams, which are close together. They feel a lot less secure than the Camalots, but both will walk into an overcammed situation. We've been able to clean them all, but a stuck Camalot stings harder than a stuck Robot.

 

Acme has a line of "Flexbots" that look a whole lot like the Trango Flex Cams. They're center stems, thus they probably pivot less.

 

Arlen

[dbb]

The main detractor from cheap cams like Robots are that they have a BIG reduction in usable range. They also are not as durable.

 

I say buy your big cams as forged friends: #2, 3, 4. As ppl have said, they're light, cheap ($25-35 at MEC) and bomber. Then drop the cash for Metolious or somthing good for the small stuff.

 

don't buy more than 6 cams to start with... (then start working on your "aid" rack )

[Gary_Yngve]

quote:

---

Originally posted by dbb:

I say buy your big cams as forged friends: #2, 3, 4. As ppl have said, they're light, cheap ($25-35 at MEC) and bomber. Then drop the cash for Metolious or somthing good for the small stuff.

---

Does anyone have any opinions on DMM 4CUs? (They are at Jim's store and are also available for cheap at MEC.)

[erik]

gary,

 

i used a rack of them last weekend up in squamish.

 

they seem to work fine.

 

one thing to note is this summer i have pushed myself to make some substantial gains with my ability. number one reason why?! i quite worrying about crap like what cams are better or if my rope is dope!! i now concentrate soley on the climbing....it is a miracle!!!

 

the more and more i think about it all, is that it does not matter which cam you use or own, they all will work. spend your money the way you feel you should.

 

ihave yet to find the weight an issue with camalots. then again i try to spend my worries on other aspects of the climb....like the climb. the pro will come, you will place it wheter it be a 6lbs camalot or a 4oz tech friend.

 

go with what your bank account allows.

[Matt_Anderson]

On Nelson's advice I bought a couple of HB Quad Cams. Now they just sit on my wall, waiting for a desert trip when I need multiples in that size.

 

They were fine to start off with and handled adequately, but I spent way to much time cleaning them. They get gunked up real quick and then the springs are to weak to push out the cams.

 

HB quad cams are my least favorite.

 

matt

[TimL]

I've found that you get what you pay for when buying cams. Metolious cams are really good for the price, range and durability. Same thing goes with Black Diamond except I've found they are more durable than any other cams I've used in terms of wear and tear. I'd say drop the money and buy the good stuff. I've never used DMM cams but HB, Treango and Clog cams are my least favorite.

[jhamaker]

$ for the Camalots are deffinatley worth it in the bigger sizes because of the huge range. On Cascade granite I find I use my #.5- # 2 sizes most. The # 3 or even #4 come in handy in the 5.5 to 5.7 range or anywere there are big cracks.

 

Buy a #1, then a #2, then a #3 - just to have it. Buy a .75 and .5 if you can afford it or fill the smaller sizes w/ cheaper cams - ones designed to also work as stoppers.

 

Don't bother doubling up - just add pieces from a friend's rack untill you have more money than patience.

[mwills]

for a comparison of sizes/weights/price of most manufacturers, check out these links:

 

by size

 

by manufacturer

 

i eyeballed a few of the ranges/weights with manufacturers specs and they agreed. great info - this guy had too much free time

 

[ 08-06-2002, 12:25 PM: Message edited by: mwills ]

[b-rock]

Thanks all for the info and links. Will probably be going with some Camalots in the next couple of weeks. Werd.

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

When buying any type of shellfish, remember to consider what area of ocean they came from. Clams take in a lot of water and sediment, and can carry a high amount of pollutants and ... oh, CAMS. Gotcha.

 

Ask a trad climber.

[Matt]

There is a .5 Camalot stuck on Godzilla. Anyone with more time than money can go get it. All the lobes are moving, it's just deep and the triggers are broken.

 

It's not mine. I don't care.

[RedMonk]

i second forged friends....they are inexensive and since they are lightweight, they make good double-up pieces when your rack becomes bigger and you start doubling up cams....that is what i ddi and i am happy with the results....