Bronco Posted June 18, 2002 Posted June 18, 2002 Alrighty then, despite buying the tightest fitting size I could possibly stand, I can now wear liner socks under my trusty Five-Ten Spires pretty comfortably. In other words, they have stretched out a lot. So now I am looking for a new pair of shoes and want be able to edge a little better and a little more suport for jammin' cracks. I don't know if I should buy a board lasted (really stiff) shoe like the Boreal Ace (fits pretty good) or try to stick with an all arounder slip lasted lace up like the Scarpa Inferno or Reflex or just get a tight slipper to take off at belays and hope my technique and foot strength improve enough for better edging. I like the idea of a board lasted shoe, but also recognize that a lot of shoe manufacturers seem to be moving away from it all together and wonder -WHY? Am I putting too much effort into finding the "right" shoe and should just lace my current shoes tighter and focus on improving my techniques? Well? Quote
erik Posted June 18, 2002 Posted June 18, 2002 TRY THE SPORTIVA MYTHOS OR THE 5.10 NEWTONS. i say avoid the shoes that hurt your feet. personally i see little benefit from potentially injuring yourself over a long period time, just for a little bit more performance. your shoes should never be the reasonn, you cannot send...... Quote
Greg_W Posted June 18, 2002 Posted June 18, 2002 Bronco; You will appreciate a slip-lasted shoe if you do any amount of slab/friction climbing (sensitivity). I bought a pair of Scarpa Infernos before last season and love them. I am looking to buy another pair for backup. They have performed well (I like them anyway) on granite and sandstone slabs and granite cracks. I bought them a touch snug and they have stretched enough that they are comfortable for a long day. I like them a bit better with 5.10 rubber on them now. Greg [ 06-18-2002, 10:06 AM: Message edited by: Greg W ] Quote
Figger_Eight Posted June 18, 2002 Posted June 18, 2002 Board lasted shoes like the Ace or great for long routes and cragging all day. Manufacturers are getting away from Board lasted shoes because despite the fact they edge better than slip lasted shoes, they aren't as sensitive or "performance" oriented. Since the trend nowadays is going towards gym climbing (they're making gym climbing specific shoes now...pathetic), that's where they're focusing their efforts. Quote
erik Posted June 18, 2002 Posted June 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Figger Eight: Board lasted shoes like the Ace or great for long routes and cragging all day. Manufacturers are getting away from Board lasted shoes because despite the fact they edge better than slip lasted shoes, they aren't as sensitive or "performance" oriented. Since the trend nowadays is going towards gym climbing (they're making gym climbing specific shoes now...pathetic), that's where they're focusing their efforts. sorry e-dawg, i cannot agree with that statement. the manufacturs seems to see this as a more cost effective shoe and one that wears out faster, there fore requireing replacement sooner. i have worn out 2 pairs of mocaysms in about 6 months. but i have poor footwork and am weak and fat..... i do not see the tend leaning towards slip lasted shoes as a result of increased gym or sport climbing.....i climb cracks and wear slippers.... peace out! Quote
RedMonk Posted June 18, 2002 Posted June 18, 2002 scarpa reflex is board lasted....at least if it is the on ethat i have....i'm pretty sure it is and it is a great shoe...but buy it at MEC cause you will save $30 Quote
sk Posted June 18, 2002 Posted June 18, 2002 I like board lasted cause I like cracks and find they ease some of the pain of the foot jam. But I do find them lacking as far as sensitvity for face climbing for smearing and frictioning. has anyone tried the red chilli's that suposedly have some sort of hibrid board lasted thing??? there found it. Red Chili Sausalito??? Quote
TimL Posted June 18, 2002 Posted June 18, 2002 Bronco, I really like the Mythos for all around climbing and find out they work pretty good on Index granite. With that said, buy them small because they WILL stretch. A friend showed me a pair of the Anasazi (sp) Mesa lace ups that looked really good edging wise but not to sure about jamming. Have fun! T Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 18, 2002 Posted June 18, 2002 slippers moccasyms. I climb cracks and like those mythos too. Same deal really just has laces.. Quote
Dru Posted June 18, 2002 Posted June 18, 2002 if you gut a snafflehound the skin should just fit over your foot. One on each foot and talk about fuzzy slippers!!! Quote
mwills Posted June 18, 2002 Posted June 18, 2002 i have the sportiva cobras and miras - and have ordered another with boards. these slip-lasted shoes are great for sensitvity, but as erik said they need to be resoled often. each have been resoled twice. i suppose, the number/type of shoes you have really comes down to the type of climbing you do. for me, i'm jack-of-all king-of-shit - happy on cracks, faces, slabs, etc. after a stress-fracture in my foot from too much edging on dime-edges with slippers i've decided to try out some shoes with a board. i oreded a pair of boreal ballet gold. these are a classic board-lasted shoe (similar to the sportiva mega). I ordered them a size larger than normal, which will allow for a thin sock. Although you do lose some sensitivity, i would opt for comfort over sensitivity on something like the north ridge of stuart. another shoe worth looking at is the venerable mythos - if you only buy one pair of those, get these. matt Quote
Bronco Posted June 18, 2002 Author Posted June 18, 2002 Thanks for all the great info. I will pass on the Invernos and snafflehoundskin but check out the rest. My wife has Mythos though, and I don't think my ego could take having matching shoes. Quote
Crackhead Posted June 19, 2002 Posted June 19, 2002 Mark Twight can climb 5.11 in crampons. Superior edging ability, although slabs might be tough. Just fit them SUPER tight so you can pull off those big dynamic moves easy. Quote
iain Posted June 19, 2002 Posted June 19, 2002 invernos and s12s edge on a dime, the ultimate bouldering combo. Take 'em to PDX Rock Gym. They love that. 2 black prophets will round out the ensemble. Lets you mono off the smallest jib. Spotters beware. Quote
thelawgoddess Posted June 19, 2002 Posted June 19, 2002 Hey, unless you buy shoes made of steel, they're eventually gonna stretch. Fact of life: stretch happens. Here's my off-the-cuff opinion ... If you want a REALLY good all-arounder, I'd say the La Sportiva Mythos is the hands-down choice. I'd wear mine around town ... if they matched my jacket. (J/K!) I don't know how hard you climb and just how tough of a crack-jammer you are, but plenty of climbers do just fine wedging their Mythos-clad feet into cracks of all sorts. You can get shoes that are touted to be better for cracks or better for slabs, but who you gonna believe? I've seen a bunch of hella great climbers swear by their Anasazi's ... but god, aren't they ugly! (The shoes, I mean.) Just curious: why do you like the idea of a board-lasted shoe? Unless you're doing 20-pitch alpine routes or standing in aiders for weeks at a time it's probably not your best bet. I mean, you might as well get a *good* "shoe" shoe ... like the La Sportiva Boulder. Just get shoes you will wear. Never mind all the hype about a shoe that's supposed to help you bust 5.14 moves. It's not about the shoes, and unless you're in competition, your shoes shouldn't detract from your enjoyment. But if you *really* want to go all out and improve your technique, learn to climb 12's in an old pair of Vans. Quote
freeclimb9 Posted June 19, 2002 Posted June 19, 2002 Get shoes that fit your feet. The performance is up to you. Boreal goes with an anatomically "perfect" last that has the big toe longest. The other 40% of us with Morton's toe (second toe longest) have to live with a dead space in Boreal shoes. (I still dig Aces, and have had a pair in my quiver for 14 years). La Sportiva has a more nuetrally shaped last that fits more people. For me, La Sportivas are ready to go out of the box. With regard to slip, or board lasted, that's up to you too. Lynn Hill used to send wearing Le Menestrals (VERY stiff board lasted shoe. Like a Buster Brown with sticky rubber), and Steve Schneider does offwidths in slippers. Quote
sk Posted June 19, 2002 Posted June 19, 2002 I'm still climbing in the sportivia enduros I booght when I first started climbing. Mythos will mostlikely be my next shoe. But I find that I complain less about my feet in my enduros than anyone I climb with in their mythos, or aces or anything else. I jam harder for longer and come off the rock still smiling I climb every week and just finaly trashed those wonderful shoes. I will be sad to see them go. but I do need something a little more sensitive now that I am cranking so much harder Quote
Peter_Puget Posted June 19, 2002 Posted June 19, 2002 Freeclimb's advice:"Get shoes that fit your feet" I couldn't agree more. What size are your feet? What kind of climbing will you be doing most? PP Quote
Peter_Puget Posted June 19, 2002 Posted June 19, 2002 Well then all day comfort isn't so important. You're too close to my size for me to have any spares. Somewhere I have a couple of old boreals about size 38. Too small for me. Once while in barfeet on a belay ledge I dropped a hammer on my toe! Ouch. Screwed up the rest of the climb. Luckily it was mostly aid. So now on long routes I am sold on comfy shoes. Quote
Jedi Posted June 19, 2002 Posted June 19, 2002 I have a pair of Mega's that i bought too tight. Size 41. worn one day. great shape. $90 to your door in the lower 48. Unless anyone out there knows how to stretch these things. They hurt my big toe. Jedi [ 06-19-2002, 01:47 PM: Message edited by: Jedi ] Quote
Bronco Posted June 19, 2002 Author Posted June 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Well then all day comfort isn't so important. You're too close to my size for me to have any spares. Somewhere I have a couple of old boreals about size 38. Too small for me. Once while in barfeet on a belay ledge I dropped a hammer on my toe! Ouch. Screwed up the rest of the climb. Luckily it was mostly aid. So now on long routes I am sold on comfy shoes. Peter, I dont want second hand shoes, but thanks for your consideration and your story about the hazzards of taking your shoes off at a belay. I don't think I am headed that direction (really tight shoes) anyway, it sounds too painful for what little you pick up in performance. Jedi, I think those Mega's would be too small for me as well, good luck finding a buyer. Has anyone found the Boreal rubber to be less sticky than others? I know Five Ten Stealth C4 is supposed to be the best, but, really, is there a huge difference? Quote
Peter_Puget Posted June 19, 2002 Posted June 19, 2002 Everyone here thinks they know it all. These are new - too small for me to ever get on my feet. Got 'em for free! I sent my Mythos to be resoled before they even touched the rock. [ 06-19-2002, 02:42 PM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ] Quote
Bronco Posted June 19, 2002 Author Posted June 19, 2002 Peter, I don't know shit and I think everyone here knows it. My bad for assuming "old Boreals" meant they were used. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted June 19, 2002 Posted June 19, 2002 Sorry to be snippy Bronco. You may not know shit but climbing at Index means you have good taste! [ 06-19-2002, 02:52 PM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ] Quote
Bronco Posted June 19, 2002 Author Posted June 19, 2002 Does this mean I get a hug if I show up at Index Friday night? Quote
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