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kevbone

Adding a bolt to a Portland route

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kevbone, i think blowboarder was very moved by your thread.

 

blowboarder, i would think that failure would be common place for you.

 

 

:tup:

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Kevbone,

Just to add another vote: Critical Mass does not need an added bolt.

While the climbing to the anchor may be heady or psychologically tough, anyone who's made it through the crux should be able to pull off moves from the last bolt to the anchor.

I've never taken a fall from that slab before the anchor, but I actually think that the last bolt before the slab is positioned where it actually sets it up to be a relatively clean fall.

 

If you're thinking about using your drill to do something benevolent at Broughton, I think you'd be better off using it to fix or replace some of the rusty, manky old bolts on some of the climbs. They're probably more likely to get someone hurt when they break/pull than the slab at the top of Critical Mass.

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ahhh...i see that you've got kev'sbone out of your piehole now, so you can speak up...

 

:rolleyes:

 

when are you going to tell your wife that your gay?

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Kevbone,

Just to add another vote: Critical Mass does not need an added bolt.

While the climbing to the anchor may be heady or psychologically tough, anyone who's made it through the crux should be able to pull off moves from the last bolt to the anchor.

I've never taken a fall from that slab before the anchor, but I actually think that the last bolt before the slab is positioned where it actually sets it up to be a relatively clean fall.

 

If you're thinking about using your drill to do something benevolent at Broughton, I think you'd be better off using it to fix or replace some of the rusty, manky old bolts on some of the climbs. They're probably more likely to get someone hurt when they break/pull than the slab at the top of Critical Mass.

 

Thanks for your comments. As you can see this thread was started for conversation only. I have no desire or time to add any bolts anywhere. I wish I had time to fix all of the shit anchors at Broughtons. Not me. To busy being a dad. Take care.

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Jesus christ you guys are so fucking annoying. I hope someone bolts the shit out of every "secret" stupid crag you losers like to wank at the base of and posts a huge online topo for everything. Then maybe when you bickering fucks are done, you can go climb some mountain routes.

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kevbone, you've heard the answer to your hypothetical question, which the audience has taken to have implications for other similar routes:

 

the overwhelming consensus is that it would be bad form and would set a bad precedent to add a bolt, even with the FA party's permission.

 

there are plenty of routes i wish had "just one more bolt" yet i either don't lead them at all, or i lead them on a day i am feeling bold, and then i can actually feel proud that i managed my nerves and performed under pressure.

 

when you add bolts because you are afraid of the route, you are cheapening the experience for everyone after.

 

there are thousands of routes in oregon, lead the ones you think are risk-free, and don't tinkering around with existing routes by trying to get the FA party to feel sorry for your fear of boldily harm.

 

PS: i've lead that climb a few times and don't necessarily enjoy the upper section, but i think it is as safe as a 20-25 foot fall into space - with some potential to swing back into the wall - can be. you won't hit a ledge or anything, there's nothing but air.

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the overwhelming consensus is that it would be bad form and would set a bad precedent to add a bolt, even with the FA party's permission.

 

Thanks for the response B……I will not be adding any bolts to this route. Never was. Just wanted to talk about it. Thanks all for the enlightening discussions.

 

As far as your comments above go I might have to disagree a little. If the FA asked me (or anyone else) to add a bolt or did it him/her self , it would not be setting a bad precedent. If you have the original artist of the route tinkering with it, it is open for interpretation by him/her and everyone else who doesn’t like it can fuck off and go climb something else.

 

I do say that if they did add a bolt you and everyone who climbed it from then on out would happily clip it.

 

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everyone else who doesn’t like it can fuck off and go climb something else.

Nice.

 

Looks like archypoo took me off her ingore function (at least for now).

 

 

 

Archenemy 1

Kevbone 2

 

 

Buyah!!!!!!

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If you have the original artist of the route tinkering with it, it is open for interpretation by him/her and everyone else who doesn’t like it can fuck off and go climb something else.

 

Right. So by this logic, chipping is totally valid as long as it's done by the FA party.

 

You're a toolbag. Minus the bag.

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If you have the original artist of the route tinkering with it, it is open for interpretation by him/her and everyone else who doesn’t like it can fuck off and go climb something else.

 

Right. So by this logic, chipping is totally valid as long as it's done by the FA party.

 

You're a toolbag. Minus the bag.

 

Did you chip your tooth as a kid?

 

 

 

You are not supposed to spray.....remember.....those are your own words. "my last post in spray".

Edited by kevbone

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