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ZimZam

Cascades '40's-'50's

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Where can I find information on climbing history in the Cascades, both WA & OR, during the 40's-50's. I have limited access to PNW reference material in this part of the country. I'm interested in people, routes, equipment, styles, or anything else you may think relevant. Thanks.

 

 

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You should ask Lowell. He and a bunch of oldsters are on the Mountaineers History Committee and they have a bunch of records from back then.

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The Mountaineers used to publish an annual which recorded many first ascents. You can find copies from the 40's and 50's at their library.

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All good suggestions.

 

The Cascade Alpine Guides have the most extensive history of first ascents, but you won't get much of the flavor of the period from them. You might also try to find the following books:

 

"The Challenge of Rainier" by Dee Molenaar

"High Adventure" by Bob and Ira Spring (text by Harvey Manning)

"High Worlds of the Mountain Climber" by Bob and Ira Spring (text by Harvey Manning)

"The Mountaineers: A History" by Jim Kjeldsen

"Lou Whittaker: Memoirs of a Mountain Guide" by Lou Whittaker

"A Life on the Edge" by Jim Whittaker

"The North Cascades" by Tom Miller (text by Harvey Manning)

"REI: 50 Years and Climbing" by Harvey Manning

"Of Men and Mountains" by William O. Douglas

 

If you read all of these, you'll have a good start toward appreciating the "Khaki Gang" that climbed in the Cascades during the 1940s and 50s.

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Coming in late, I second Cascade Voices; Conversations with Washington Mountaineers, by Malcom S. Bates. Exactly what you're looking for.

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Don't forget the Mazamas library. The Annual published every year has a list of all the climbs as well as articles about major expeditions, climbs, and outings of the year.

 

Vera DeFoe is a living legend in the Mazamas. She runs the museum. She's in her 80s and just recently stopped leading climbs. She has been active in the Mazamas most of her adult life, so she would have first hand experience. Jeff Thomas has a lot of notes on the history of climbing around Oregon. All of the folks could probably be contacted via the Mazamas office.

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Coming in late, I second Cascade Voices; Conversations with Washington Mountaineers, by Malcom S. Bates. Exactly what you're looking for.
Three Fingers, also by Mack Bates, contains quite a few mountaineering stories as well. Not having read Cascade Voices, I wouldn't know if those stories are redundant or not.

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"The Challenge of Rainier" by Dee Molenaar

"High Adventure" by Bob and Ira Spring (text by Harvey Manning)

"High Worlds of the Mountain Climber" by Bob and Ira Spring (text by Harvey Manning)

"The Mountaineers: A History" by Jim Kjeldsen

"Lou Whittaker: Memoirs of a Mountain Guide" by Lou Whittaker

"A Life on the Edge" by Jim Whittaker

"The North Cascades" by Tom Miller (text by Harvey Manning)

"REI: 50 Years and Climbing" by Harvey Manning

"Of Men and Mountains" by William O. Douglas

 

Great list :tup: :tup:

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Climbingin North America,by Chris Jones, Copyright 1976

Library of Conggress Catalog card #75-3771

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Just picked this book up at at a second hand store in the Dalles,

seen it there a few week's back!!!

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Just picked this book up at at a second hand store in the Dalles,

seen it there a few week's back!!!

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