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peter puget, billcoe & the rest of you old farts..


RuMR

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Turn 55 this summer and I'm way happy any time I can just get back to solid trad 10 - anything past that is work / family dependent. Bill and I do have a couple of hard projects planned for this year somewhat harder than that but we'll just have to see how the year goes. None of what we have planned will likely be in the teens range if he and I get up them.

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Hmm this is funny I just going to post something concerning age and climbing hard. RumR is always going off about climbing 5.12 is not that hard, but I am always left thinking, "what hell is he talking about 5.12 is not hard and anybody can do it???". I have been climbing for 17 years and I never been able to pull a 5.12 and I have only managed a single handful of 5.11's. There has been times of being a climbing bum, and still I never seem to progress further than a few 11's sends.

 

So what gives, am I not driven enough? Hell I work out quite a bit, 3-2 hour long bouldering sessions a week, 2-3 mountain bike rides a week. I feel like that is quite a bit considering I working about 50 hours a week and trying to raise a child. I also know I like good food and good drink, is that is what is holding me back?

 

Am I too old? Well manboy's friend is older than I but obviously in way better shape. Is he one of the few mutants out there? Or can anybody get that strong? It impressive seeing that picture and definitely give me some hope of getting stronger. Ideally, well my dream, when I was younger and new to the sport was to lead 5.12 trad, but I am just not seeing it happen. I have been stuck maxing out in 10 land for so long, sometimes I feel like I would be happy to just hold onto climbing at that level, but still dream that I can get stronger.

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ken...this may sound heretical, but i'd suggest going and just pounding on a single route that is significantly harder than just something between 11/12...more like a solid 5.12or .12+...pick a route that you can do all of the moves on (or nearly all, and just missing a couple) and beat the thing into the ground...don't climb all of your routes this way, but just one...

 

you will find that a.) yes, you can climb significantly harder than you think and b.) your body will become used to a different "standard" and c.) a mental switch will be made...then, return to a style of trying to flash or get routes done in a couple of tries.

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Hmm this is funny I just going to post something concerning age and climbing hard. RumR is always going off about climbing 5.12 is not that hard, but I am always left thinking, "what hell is he talking about 5.12 is not hard and anybody can do it???". I have been climbing for 17 years and I never been able to pull a 5.12 and I have only managed a single handful of 5.11's. There has been times of being a climbing bum, and still I never seem to progress further than a few 11's sends.

 

So what gives, am I not driven enough? Hell I work out quite a bit, 3-2 hour long bouldering sessions a week, 2-3 mountain bike rides a week. I feel like that is quite a bit considering I working about 50 hours a week and trying to raise a child. I also know I like good food and good drink, is that is what is holding me back?

 

Am I too old? Well manboy's friend is older than I but obviously in way better shape. Is he one of the few mutants out there? Or can anybody get that strong? It impressive seeing that picture and definitely give me some hope of getting stronger. Ideally, well my dream, when I was younger and new to the sport was to lead 5.12 trad, but I am just not seeing it happen. I have been stuck maxing out in 10 land for so long, sometimes I feel like I would be happy to just hold onto climbing at that level, but still dream that I can get stronger.

I think its possible that some of us just have limits-period. I am not a talented climber. I have a level/grade of climb that I don't think I'll be able to break. I have had this experience in other athletic pursuits that I've focused on for years. At the same time, there are others that I have excelled at and "outdone" other folks who have been at it longer. There just seem to be some things that I am naturally better at than others. I assume that the same may be true for others.

 

But you know that the best climber is the one having the most fun.

 

Frankly, that one isn't me either. But what the hell, it beats watching football.

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Hmmm. Right now I'm just happy to be getting back to 5.9 at the gym. Even before I hurt myself 5.10 was pretty much my limit; though I'm only counting what I could do on an alpine route. I suppose I could spend more time at the crag, but I only view that as, "training for real climbing." That's just my viewpoint of things. I could see getting to 5.11, but 5.12 seems stouter than I'm ever likely to do.

 

I guess I'm less worked up about grade numbers and more into cool routes on cool peaks.

 

I do have 7 years before I hit 50 :)

Edited by AlpineK
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Not that I could ever climb worth a shit, with a stocky build like mine, I am more suited to mountain climbing, that I was into before the rock climbing thing came into my life at age 40, than when I got close to 50 things started to pull and hurt and now I am over 50.

Not long ago I was watching a thing on TV about the second biggest reason people are seeing the doctor next to the common cold or flue was Boomer ailments people my age or younger over doing it, be it baseball, football climbing or running ect.and it showed a bunch of old wankers like me and the surgerys there were getting. About the same time I was reading an article about a dude over 50 sending 5.14 at rifle, at first I thought there was hope, than the article went on to say how amazing it was after his shoulder surgery.

Now I don't push so hard, I am just glad to be healthy enought to get out and climb and enjoy sending anything and come away not hurt.

My girl friend got busted up a few years ago and has went through several surgerys and will never be back the same and without my sweeties bomber allways there belay it set me back. (thank gods she's back).

Climbing old is not about 5.12 or as Massy used to tell us, boulder to the next level, to me and my sweetie it's about getting out having fun, friends and staying in shape.

Climb smart ,Climb safe, Climb all the time

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Hey RumR maybe I have to beat to death a route sometime. In the past I have viewed cragging like AK, that it was training for the mountains, though I do really enjoy good cragging days. I always found it hard working a route, mainly because I found it boring mentally and really enjoyed getting mileage in rather pushing myself. Lately though, now that I have a bouldering wall in the backyard, I find myself able to work problems sometimes months before a send, so maybe I am in a better space to work a route. Now-a-days I also find myself maybe racing the age clock like Joeseph and thinking there is still things I want to do out there.

 

I agree that climbing should be fun, which it is, whenever I am out doing it whether it be cragging, bouldering, alpine, ice, whatever, it is all good. To me I am not necessarily chasing numbers, but what I saw early on is if I could climb 5.12 cragging then I could surely get on alpine 11's, which mean way more terrain available to climb. Also the great exposure on hard alpine climbs appealed to me as well.

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