Borg Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 I have acquired funds for 2 or 3 new cams. I currently have (3) C4's (.5/.75/1) I'm convinced that I should get #2. So inadditoin to the #2, would I be better off building my rack toward the bigger end with a #3 or build smaller with a #.4? I have a full set of nut so I have options in the small dept, but not much in the larger end so I'm inclined to go for the #3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 Which have you found yourself wanting to place? I would say the #3 is a better choice; I own one and I don't own a #.4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 depends where you want to visit. Squamish? (get the smaller cam) Leavenworth? (get the larger) Index? (get the smaller plus balls!) washington pass? (larger) so where do you see yourself climbing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 Index? (get the smaller, plus balls!) F#&k, now I have to make another trip to REI. What aisle to they have these so call "balls" in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 I have acquired funds for 2 or 3 new cams. I currently have (3) C4's (.5/.75/1) I'm convinced that I should get #2. So inadditoin to the #2, would I be better off building my rack toward the bigger end with a #3 or build smaller with a #.4? I have a full set of nut so I have options in the small dept, but not much in the larger end so I'm inclined to go for the #3. ________________________________________________________________ Borrow some $ and buy them all. You know you want too:-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 Buy a #2 and #3. If you have some left over cash, start getting aliens or metolius tcus for the smaller cams. Repeat as needed for bigger projects... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbconlin Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 0.4 or better yet grey Alien Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 Best of all get a #4 and a #1 DMM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 Here's a better question: What is on your main partner(s) rack? See where the size gaps are so your combined rack is well balanced across the sizes. And I'll make a little different suggestion here. If you look at your combined rack and decide you're going to get a #2 Camalot, seriously consider getting an Omega Pacfic Link Cam (the #2/Gold one) instead of the #2 camalot. Now don't get me wrong, I love camalots, all my cams above finger size are camalots. I don't even own any of the link cams. BUT...I routinely climb with a partner who has a couple of them, and if I were in your position I'd get one. Here's why: For one thing, that one cam will cover the entire range of a 0.75, 1, and 2 camalot. So not only will you have a #2 camalot equivalent, you'll effectively have doubles of the .75 and 1. For another, when you are somewhat new to leading it's harder to eyeball the sizes properly...so you're more likely to get it to fit when you're pumped and trying to get gear. And yet another advantage is that you can save the link cam for the anchor so you're less likely to have burned your last piece that would fit in the anchor lower on the pitch. I've done all these in the last week...put the red one on back of the harness for the anchor (and used it) because I didn't know what size it was up there and needed all my .75s and 1s for the route itself. Led a thing that started with a bouldery roof yesterday and wanted a piece at the lip but couldn't tell from the ground if it would be a .75 or a 1...took a red link and was happy to have it because I was at my limit. A final advantage to these things is in a crack where the face of the crack is narrow but it pods out/widens a bit inside. Normally, you'd not be able to get a cam in there because anything small enough to go through the narrow front would umbrella in the pod...whereas a Linkcam will compress small enough to go through, then open and still be in it's operational range inside. They're a little pricey, about $100 I'd guess, and a 2 camalot is about $65 and much less versatile. If I weren't on permanent vacation (i.e. unemployed) I'd get a couple of them, but it's hard to justify spending the money when I've got triples and quads from tiny to bigger than fist...so I use my partner's and talk them up to my other partners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 Buy four TriCams. pinky, red, brown, blue. Spend the extra money on Rockcentrics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 you could get the link cam for 20% off at REI right now if you are a member. Softens the blow a little. (Then again you could also apply the discount to one camalot). I would echo what Will said, and add that if your primary partner does not have a rack, you are probably best off going with the 2 and 3 camalots (or #2 link cam and #3 camalot). I would especially go that route if you think you will be able to buy more small cams in the not so distant future. On moderate routes small cams are often more of a convenience than a necessity, whereas the med-large camalots might be the only pro available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprocket Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 I think that the 3 cams I use the most are #1 & #2 Camalots and a number #4 TCU (somewhere in the range of .5 or .75 Camalot). A #3 Camalot is on my rack now and I use it all the time. I think a lot depends on where and what you plan to climb most, how soon you will add more cams and if you prefer stoppers to cams in the smaller range. When I'm at my limit and need to shove gear quickly I go for a cam and have doubles down to #1 TCU so small cams are important to me. My friend in the same situation goes for stoppers first. As mentioned before where you climb affects what you need. I did a couple climbs up in the N. Cascades last summer and wished I had a #5 and #6 Camalot, but when I went to Squamish it seemed like you needed a lot of cams in the .75 range and down. I've used the Link cam and think it's useful but can be a little harder to place than a Camalot and think its a good cam to get when you are getting a second set because 1 cam can back up 2-3 standard cams. As mentioned earlier too, Tri-cams can be a cheaper alternative in the smaller range. I'm not a huge fan of them but a lot of climbers carry them, especially the 3 smallest ones. I personally like to carry the 3-4 bigges WC hexes. They are light and if your are at a comfortable stance they make bomber placements. I like to use them at belays for these reasons and it also saves the cams for the leader. Plus they are relatively inexpensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 Definitely buy the #2 camalot at least. you will use it everywhere. you can get by with hexes or cheaper cams (like forged friends) for the #3 and above camalots if you're just starting out. Eventually get a #3 sized cam though (I almost always carry one on rock). I would recommend you buy a #1 and #3 metolius cam or camalot C3 equivalent for your other cam. That's what I did when I started out and I ended up placing those two small cams a lot more than the 3 inch piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstach Posted March 3, 2007 Share Posted March 3, 2007 Buy a #2 and #3. If you have some left over cash, start getting aliens or metolius tcus for the smaller cams. Repeat as needed for bigger projects... I have metolius in smaller sizes (up to black) and camalots for my bigger sizes (#1 to #4 - rarely use my #4, though). I hear alot of people lately using aliens...what is so great about aliens? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 what is so great about aliens? Nothing that isn't done better by ZeroCams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted March 5, 2007 Share Posted March 5, 2007 Definitely buy the #2 camalot at least. you will use it everywhere. :tup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted March 5, 2007 Share Posted March 5, 2007 Buy four TriCams. pinky, red, brown, blue. Spend the extra money on Rockcentrics. TriCams rule! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstach Posted March 5, 2007 Share Posted March 5, 2007 what is so great about aliens? Nothing that isn't done better by ZeroCams OK, then. Whats so great about ZeroCams? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstach Posted March 5, 2007 Share Posted March 5, 2007 I second the suggestion that big hexes are great. I use them as light way to double up on big sizes or even leave your heavy cams at home for an easier route. I carry #8, 9 and 10 Hexcentrics, which fit in the #1 to #3 Camalot range. Also, these are *much* cheaper than cams if you have to bail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted March 5, 2007 Share Posted March 5, 2007 what is so great about aliens? Nothing that isn't done better by ZeroCams OK, then. Whats so great about ZeroCams? They can do yoga. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
still_climbin Posted March 10, 2007 Share Posted March 10, 2007 Rockcentrics. :tup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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