The story on Hozomeen in winter

[NoahT]

I'm sure other winter alpiners have daydreamed, at least once, over this, but what's the winter history of Hozomeen's S and N peaks--specifically N peak's W face (zorro) and S peak's N face? Access? Attempts? Ascents? The Scurlock photos are just downright fancy...who can share somethin about these???

[G-spotter]

are you going to fly in there or what?

[NoahT]

Not me, but an "actual" hardman could probably figure something out. They're a daytrip in the summer, but is that the deal--they're just to damn far with the closed roads? Even from the Canuck side?

[jordop]

Road currently closed ~55km from Hozomeen. Most years you'd want a snowmobile . . .

[NoahT]

whoa! that'll do it.

[max]

http://www.pbase.com/nolock/hozomeen

 

for those of us too lazy to type.

 

What an amazing looking mountain....

 

 

[layton]

A water approach via ross lake could get you there much quicker.

However, due to the pain in the ass that would be, and the odds that it won't be in (concidering the rumors that it's crackless), most climbers wanting to do a big FA in winter have a limitless amount of other routes to choose from.

[wayne]

So the n peak appears to have been done in winter via the n face (1988), most ascents took place in may, june because of water, there was no beckey reference as to how they got in there in feb, but that mt has enough issues to warrant serious thought about any big new route at all in the best of conditions.

[John_Scurlock]

It isn't easy to even fly to in winter. From my pov it stands at the center of the void. Counting N & S pks as one, it gets my vote for Greatest Number of Evil-Looking Faces in the range. And maybe the lower 48?

 

Give Slesse's NEF or SEM's EF the nod for the single Most Evil-Looking Face? Admittedly subjective, but these each have two or three ELFs total, whereas H has, what, five or six?

 

What a mountain - fascination & dread all rolled up in one.

Desolation's dark angel for sure.

[layton]

Why don't you marry it then?

[John_Scurlock]

Why don't you marry it then?

 

Don't be silly, I would never betray Mount Britney Spears. And quit asking me to take you in there to see it.

[DirtyHarry]

There's a sweet coulior on north peak that looks like a good ski line. But I don't see much that looks like a stunning climbing line. The west face is unfortunately, west facing, which probably doesn't set up too well for snow and ice.

[wayne]

That was one of the best exchanges in cc history, Thanks John and Mike!

[Dechristo]

Why don't you marry it then?

 

It's not the kind of mountin' you take home to Mother.

[G-spotter]

They got to it in winter by skiing south from Manning Park, which is a 2 day approach. Believe it was a 5 day round trip.

[Alex]

Don't be silly, I would never betray Mount Britney Spears.

 

An Evil Looking Face, to be sure!

[NoahT]

agreed, certainly other big FAs to be had at much less of a cost, mentally and physically. If it weren't for it's "evilness" (read fascination in the minds of those who enjoy a bit of suffering for a little-climbed line) and place in literary history, it probably wouldn't get much attention at all.

 

 

[NoahT]

I'm glad to here someone has ponied up, and gone for it in the winter, though.

[powderhound]

Why don't you marry it then?

 

What a great Idea

[dberdinka]

Drive to Manning Park. Park at Lightning Lakes (~4000'). Ski along Lighting Creek 8 or 9 absolutely flat to slightly downhill miles to the base of the NW Face of the North Peak. Easy, in good conditions you could get there in half-a-day.

 

Looks like a wicked ski descent for those of you inot that sort of thing

[G-spotter]

Um, Lightning Creek downstream of Strike lake is a giant pit of sadism. And it is on the other side of the mountain from the NW face. But you knew that, didn't you.

[jordop]

Looks like a wicked ski descent for those of you into that sort of thing

 

In srping the N face of N peak has ~1/2 pitch of water ice (the Hourglass). Complete guess as to whether it gets filled over during the winter. Might make a ski descent a touch gripping . . . (it has crossed my mind)

[ketch]

Now if you were really good at snow-yacking one could drive to the Ross lake trailhead, snoyack the hill and then paddle in. A little rough on the way out but definatley a memorable approach.

[powderhound]

So what routes have been done on Hozomeen. Has the NE ridge been taken and what about the other ridges.

[jordop]

Yes.