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The story on Hozomeen in winter


NoahT

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I'm sure other winter alpiners have daydreamed, at least once, over this, but what's the winter history of Hozomeen's S and N peaks--specifically N peak's W face (zorro) and S peak's N face? Access? Attempts? Ascents? The Scurlock photos are just downright fancy...who can share somethin about these???

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A water approach via ross lake could get you there much quicker.

However, due to the pain in the ass that would be, and the odds that it won't be in (concidering the rumors that it's crackless), most climbers wanting to do a big FA in winter have a limitless amount of other routes to choose from.

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So the n peak appears to have been done in winter via the n face (1988), most ascents took place in may, june because of water, there was no beckey reference as to how they got in there in feb, but that mt has enough issues to warrant serious thought about any big new route at all in the best of conditions.

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It isn't easy to even fly to in winter. From my pov it stands at the center of the void. Counting N & S pks as one, it gets my vote for Greatest Number of Evil-Looking Faces in the range. And maybe the lower 48?

 

Give Slesse's NEF or SEM's EF the nod for the single Most Evil-Looking Face? Admittedly subjective, but these each have two or three ELFs total, whereas H has, what, five or six?

 

What a mountain - fascination & dread all rolled up in one.

Desolation's dark angel for sure.

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agreed, certainly other big FAs to be had at much less of a cost, mentally and physically. If it weren't for it's "evilness" (read fascination in the minds of those who enjoy a bit of suffering for a little-climbed line) and place in literary history, it probably wouldn't get much attention at all.

 

 

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Drive to Manning Park. Park at Lightning Lakes (~4000'). Ski along Lighting Creek 8 or 9 absolutely flat to slightly downhill miles to the base of the NW Face of the North Peak. Easy, in good conditions you could get there in half-a-day.

 

Looks like a wicked ski descent for those of you inot that sort of thing ;)

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Looks like a wicked ski descent for those of you into that sort of thing ;)

 

In srping the N face of N peak has ~1/2 pitch of water ice (the Hourglass). Complete guess as to whether it gets filled over during the winter. Might make a ski descent a touch gripping . . . (it has crossed my mind)

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