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corvallisclimb

Oregon Bolt Replacement

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ascacrap.jpg

 

Are the rusty chains on the right from Rooster Rock in the Menage?

 

Ya Rooster or Hen or any one of those pinnacles. The classic Anglin budget anchor sans hangers. Jim's budget hangers pictured to the left. Two orange one blue.

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Not sure if it's worth mentioning, but I replaced the first bolt off Bohn St. on the Monkey Face bolt ladder with a glue-in and removed a couple worthless old ones near the belay. In addition, I also removed an old one on the diving board and replaced that with a new glue-in that, coupled with the one decent expansion bolt, should make a decent belay for tyros and slacklining and such. I know a lot more need to be done on the bolt ladder, but I haven't gotten to them yet.

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ascacrap.jpg

 

Are the rusty chains on the right from Rooster Rock in the Menage?

 

Ya Rooster or Hen or any one of those pinnacles. The classic Anglin budget anchor sans hangers. Jim's budget hangers pictured to the left. Two orange one blue.

 

I'm pretty sure you mean the other left...

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Not sure if it's worth mentioning, but I replaced the first bolt off Bohn St. on the Monkey Face bolt ladder with a glue-in and removed a couple worthless old ones near the belay. In addition, I also removed an old one on the diving board and replaced that with a new glue-in that, coupled with the one decent expansion bolt, should make a decent belay for tyros and slacklining and such. I know a lot more need to be done on the bolt ladder, but I haven't gotten to them yet.

 

That first bolt scared the crap out of me, thank you. :tup:

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Smith Rock

 

Angel Flight Buttress - Original Route

3 Lead Bolts

2 Anchor Bolts

 

Angel Flight Buttress - High Sage

2 Anchor Bolts

 

Angel Flight Buttress - Follies of Youth

2 Lead Bolts

 

Angel Flight Buttress - Youthfull Indescretion

2 Anchors Bolts

 

W/ Jim Ablao, May 7th, 2011

 

 

dscf2593.jpg

Jim covered in rock dust but still smiling!

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Tyler, we need to find someone in the ME dept who has access to a breaker. I'd love to see how strong some of that stuff is... Anyone on CC here have a hookup?

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Ya Ian would be cool to see breaking strengths. I'll get some hangers pull tested next time I have a chance. Would be more interesting to see the breaking strengths of the bolts though, but since the weakest ones break before pulling them out of the rock it would be impossible to test the strengths of 30 year old bolts. I find it to be amazing what looks like crap can be totally solid and what looks solid can be total crap. What ever you do don't trust old stud bolts. These are nothing but crap. How do you break a solid rod of metal? You score it! Stud bolts are just that! The past couple weeks I've been replacing some of Jim Anglin's stud bolts on some of his routes from the early 80's in the Menagerie. He placed two different kinds, I believe a zinc plated, then regular old solid steel. The ones that are zinc plated look totally new by looks but no joke I snapped %90 of them with one light blow of the hammer. The solid steel ones that looked totally rusty and like crap I could not even sheer two of them and have to come back with a chisel and hacksaw. In my personal opinion stud bolts are total crap. Cheap yes, crap yes. Even the new ones I think are crap, my friend bought a box of 50 1/2" stainless studs to use at Smith. We used them on some routes on the Smith Rock Group and Red Wall. Due to being stainless you have to use some sort of lock-tite or something to keep the nut from loosening. We didn't, and now probably 45 of those 50 all have loose nuts and I've heard one of the routes is now missing a hanger or two. Requiring me to go back up and fix all that crap since Mr. Mark D is not around to help. I've sheared the few newer 3/8" stainless studs I've removed too with out much effort. Now this is just my opinion because I'm sure there are plenty of people that will tell me RAWLs are crap. To each his own!

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Yeah, I guess I'm one of the latter and don't care for the 5-pc bolts at all. They definitely turn into a corroded, spinning mess pretty damn fast - at least on this side of the Cascades. I'm down with SS studs and do use locktite(red) on them. Wouldn't consider ever going back to 5pc's. As you said, to each his own.

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Great work! We all appreciate your contribution to the climbing community. I was curious as to where you buy the bolts. I really like the Powers bolts and I would like to continue to use those but I don't want to pay shipping for a box of bolts. I live in Portland, do you know where I can buy local in bulk?

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Hey there, we get the bolts donated to us by the ASCA. Feel free to check out www.safeclimbing.org for some more info. And if your inclined you can donate some money and specify where for ;). As far as buying bolts, I've never bought bolts from a retail store so I would say the cheapest you'll find would be online even with shipping.

 

Cheers!

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Menagerie Wilderness

 

Panorama Point - Blue Duck

4 Anchor Bolts

W/ Steve Elder, October 2011

 

Panorama Point - More Bolts Than Balls

2 Anchor Bolts

W/ Steve Elder & Bill Amos, October 2011

 

Chicken Rock - Rawhide

2 Anchor Bolts

W/ Chris Fralick, 5/6/2012

 

Chicken Rock - Chicken Legs

2 Anchor Bolts

W/ Chris Fralick, 5/6/2012

 

Hen Rock - Poached

2 Anchor Bolts

W/ Chris Fralick, 5/6/2012

 

 

The chain anchor for Rawhide was pulled and replaced with normal bolts with no rings. To rappel climb over the summit to the Chicken Legs anchors and rappel.

 

The tree anchor for Poached/Autum Reigns/South Crack etc. died so now there is a bolted anchor on the ledge 10' above the tree and to the right. A much better location and more convenient for top roping the routes below.

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now there is no reason to not go up there and climb this route.

 

Smith Rock

 

The Wombat - Santiam Highway Ledges

14 lead bolts

6 anchor bolts

W/ Jim Ablao & Aaron Webb August 09

 

 

 

Thank you thank you thank you!!!!!!!!!!

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Second the :tup: for ASCA and all local developers (including Smith) that REALLY understand their local rock. Some post, some don't, but go find them and listen carefully.

Edited by matt_warfield

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I'm very interested in helping with the replacement of anchors in the Pacific NW. I've been climbing for 13 years and want to do my part to payback the climbing community.

 

I'm looking for someone who is actively involved in this process so that I can learn the correct methods for such work.

 

I have a strong background in acccess issues, and understand that anchor/bolt replacement can be a very complicated issue and am more than willing to do my homework before heading out and causing a ruckus.

 

Shoot me an email at lightnfast@gmail.com if you have anything scheduled around Portland and would be willing to share their knowledge and have a helping hand. This goes for route development/cleaning as well.

 

Thanks,

Scott Robertson

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On 9/7/2011 at 2:37 PM, corvallisclimb said:

...Due to being stainless you have to use some sort of lock-tite or something to keep the nut from loosening... 

It's been my experience that if you reef on SS bolts/nuts enough they'll lockup and you'll never get 'em to move again. However, this is in regards to antenna mounting hardware where "reefing" on the hardware is quite possible. This may not be possible with climbing anchors, I don't know. I've never placed anchor bolts. 

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