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Everything posted by lightnfast

  1. Lame-o. I one spent shall we say, too much time on a route I started way too late in Eldo years back in the middle of winter. Getting back to our car frazzled and tired at 9p, I started my car and started driving to the gate to find it...closed. I lowered my head in defeat, and was blown away when the gate started to open. Then again, if they installed such a system they wouldn't be able to fill the coffers as easily.
  2. 2 Black Diamond Half Dome (new style) helmets in like-new condition. Asking $30 each. Used two weekends at Smith, zero falls, purple/white pattern. Like new with a little Smith dust, still has the shiny dry treated feel. I'm moving on Wednesday January 21 so this needs to go NOW! Save $135 over retail. Local pickup in PDX. Pics here: http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/spo/4846665120.html
  3. Hit up Mist, again, early this morning. As above saw headlamps below Crown Jewel at 6:40am-ish. I climbed a pitch and went to work. What's better than that? Except for more pitches...and less work Looked like they were descending as I drove back to town around 7:45, at least I could see someone at the belay atop pitch 1 but no where else. Yay ice!
  4. Gorge Ice 2014 style

    Scratched around in the gullies right of the main Mist flow. It was fun, the usual climbs were super soft and not quite ready. Looks colder out by Hood River; can anyone point me towards potential ice up there?
  5. Pictures to come - camera issues. Lots of sweet gear to offload. Nothing wrong with any of it, just some closet cleaning. I have a gear problem, and I'm working on it... NWAlpine Salopette - Size Medium - Black - $175 Perfect condition, badass amazing layer that I'm sad to let go of. Made in the USA here in Portland, OR. Kept me dry climbing ice at Mist Falls, which if you are from PDX should mean something. Outdoor Research Mentor Jacket - Size Small - Orange - $250 Like new condition, I generally wear a medium but this fits just right, current model, no stains, purchased last year, only worn ice climbing several times. DWR is still baller as hell, GoreTex Pro won't let you down. Black Diamond Dawn Patrol Approach Pants - Size Small - Black - $150 Perfect condition, no nicks from 'pons. Schoeller is amazing stuff. Black Diamond Dawn Patrol Hybrid Jacket - Size Medium - Black - $175 Perfect condition, ditto the above, buy them both and be an alpine ninja. Mountain Hardwear Compressor Jacket - Size Medium - Orange/Black - $130 Like new, no stains, bought last year, incredibly warm and light. Patagonia Houdini - Size Medium - Black - SOLD Sick wind/rain shell for a little mental security on long climbs when you aren't sure what the weather will do. Excellent condition. Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer Hooded Jacket (not DOWN) - Size Medium - Acid Green - $80 Same as above, stupid light, packs stupid small, freaking awesome I just don't need it. Walrus Rapeede XV 4-Season tent - Orange - $150 Excellent condition, all poles, guylines, stuff sacks, fly, stakes, etc. BADASS super burly double wall 4-season tent. Walrus was acquired by MSR, who replaced a pole section when it bent (in storage, not use) and honor the lifetime guarantee of the tent still. Black Diamond Enforcer Glove - Small - $60 Never worn, new without tags. Black Diamond Punisher Glove - Small - $50 Same as above, never worn, new without tags
  6. Alpine Apparel For Sale - NWAlpine, BD, OR, MH

    Salopette, Ghost Whisperer, and Punishers sold!
  7. Best of luck to you both!
  8. Oregon Bolt Replacement

    I'm very interested in helping with the replacement of anchors in the Pacific NW. I've been climbing for 13 years and want to do my part to payback the climbing community. I'm looking for someone who is actively involved in this process so that I can learn the correct methods for such work. I have a strong background in acccess issues, and understand that anchor/bolt replacement can be a very complicated issue and am more than willing to do my homework before heading out and causing a ruckus. Shoot me an email at lightnfast@gmail.com if you have anything scheduled around Portland and would be willing to share their knowledge and have a helping hand. This goes for route development/cleaning as well. Thanks, Scott Robertson
  9. Viper or Quark

    ^^^ I'll second that.
  10. packing check list for climbing

    First of all it's great to know that the Hunter is loved by many; hard to find a cheaper, better cure for what ails you. Fireball, in my experience, is for people who want to say 'I drink whiskey!' but can't really drink whiskey. But I have a certain affinity for Hot Tamales, and Fireball is essentailly a liquid version that also inebriates me, so I'll take a pull if offered one. In my experience Canadians are too busy climbing harder than me, downplaying their achievments, or just generally being hard to bother with checklists (but I freaking love lists).
  11. Great report. The Crown must go down next freeze... You guys must have been the first party at Mist on Saturday yeah? We showed up behind you (two orange-jacketed bearded monsters), saw the same guy on Crown, wondered the same thing. Fun climbing on the right of Mist, fun on the left too, ropeless is the way to go over there, with the old Sword of Damocles hanging above, whiched was wildly sculpted from the wind. Ice Tally for 2013/14 Season: # of Days Portland: 3 Bozeman: 2 Canmore: 2 Portland is winnning?!
  12. WA/OR Ice climbing Partner this weekend?

    Possibly down for a Leavenworth or Snoqualmie trip...same ability level, WI4 leading, rack, etc... Never climbed ice at either, but spent plenty of time in Leavenworth, climbing for 13 years, guiding, etc. I won't get you killed and could possibly save your ass. That's a pretty fitting description. WFR too... On that note, any good online (or print) resources for Snoqualmie pass ice routes?
  13. [TR] Mt Hood - Old Chute [Mazamas Chute] 1/26/2014

    For the time being...taken at 5am Sunday the 26th of January.
  14. [TR] Mist Falls - ? 12/6/2013

    Was there the past two days. Both sides are fat as all hell and were getting fatter today. Roped up and climbed the left side, placed 3 screws, belayed up high to the left, escaped left and downclimbed. Ice was thick enough for a v-thread but didn't have the tool... The right side was fun also, long traverse right through crazy 4" diameter iced over slide alder then easy down climbing. SO AWESOME!
  15. Gorge Ice

    Yeah Mist was looking very thin today; wouldn't recommend going out there...
  16. Dragontail descent

    Last question, best guidebook for the area? I'd like to check out the descent option mentioned above, Kahtoolas and axes as a backup.
  17. Dragontail descent

    Thanks man much appreciated. Headed up there at the end of the month.
  18. Dragontail descent

    Also wondering what the descent of Dragontail is looking like, any info greatly appreciated. Crampons necessary?
  19. Boot Question

    Here's the deal... I have two pairs of boots right now, the Scarpa Liskamm and a very slightly used pair of Scarpa Alphas. I'm trying to determine which boot I really want to keep, and which to get rid of, that's where all you opinionated NW climbers come in, drop some knowledge (or opinion...). The majority of my winter/spring climbing pursuits involve steep snow, and perhaps some ice. I'm looking at developing my ice skills in order to work on harder mountaineering routes. I don't need two pairs of boots (or do I...). The benefits I see for the Alpha's are they are plastic and perhaps warmer, the removable liner can be slept with for overnight trips, pretty light, and the crampon interface with my Sabretooths is magically perfect. The Liskamm's are taller (actually purchased them because they met USFS wildland firefighting specs, and didn't want to spend money on a dumb pair of Nick's or White's) and definitely more stable ankle-wise, I supposed that's the main benefit I see. On the negative side, if I work my ass off all day, and get them nice and wet, they'll freeze overnight and I get to deal with that in the morning (or rest of day). The variable I keep wondering about is that ankle height. Picture front-pointing in Converse All-Stars versus the Liskamms, I afraid that the Alpha's are too oriented towards ice, the cuff height is too low, and might necessitate more physical exertion than necessary on long, steep snow routes where the high cuff height of the Liskamm could offer some support beyond your own muscle's. Does any of this make sense? Some of my concern may stem from climbing Hood's south side last year with the Alpha's, but using a borrowed pair of Grivel Rambo's (vertical front points vs. the horizontal goodness of the Sabretooths). Was that the source of my frustration (front points just levered out each step)? Spray your opinions all over this thread, much appreciated.
  20. Boot Question

    Hah, I love it, luckily most of the time at work I'm wearing Alpinestars, I honestly only wore the Liskamms when I was posted up at the top of Nahaum canyon earlier this summer when it was on fire. Liskamms for Road Guard duty, what the hell...
  21. Boot Question

    Glad there are others out there that think too much about gear. I figured I'd be using the Alpha's during the winter, had looked into the Omega and it'll be a good purchase when the time comes. If the Liskamm's ever get to see action at work, it involves everything being on fire and the use of a hand tool, capice? Main concern there is delaminating soles. Right on, I'll continue using the Alpha's til I can afford something better. Thanks for all your help.