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Oregon Bolt Replacement


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  • 3 weeks later...

If anyone is looking for a good bolt candidate to replace, I always thought the third or fourth bolt on the second pitch of New Generation at Carver, the one right before you traverse to the left, is the worst looking bolt I've ever clipped.



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  • 4 months later...
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The last two bolts on Double Trouble at Smith are pretty sketchy. Might as well be plant hangers, esp the last one which spun 180 deg. I didn't even bother clipping it. The anchors are also a little unnerving, there was definitely a significant amount of creaking going on during the lower.

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  • 2 months later...
Twin Pillars - Mill Creek Wilderness

Main Pillar - Campfire Route?

1 Lead Bolt

1 Anchor Bolt


W Brian Schmitz 4/19/07



did the main pillar go free?


ha for us hardly i think we did that F6 A3 route but who even knows!


the main pillar is free via the "north face route" f7!!!! the campfire route could be free, but it would be a ballsy endeavor, not something you would do onsight, having only done the lower half free on TR, I thought the overhang would go around 5.11, maybe harder.

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thanks & thanks for the efforts Tyler.


so the F6 A3 line goes up the groove in the photo above guy's head by chance?




edit: sorry dont know why photo's not showing up but the link's right.

Edited by fgw
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yeah...and the north face starts about 15 feet left of the groove in a right facing corner. The second pitch of the north face climb...joins the weakness above the groove.


did you guys climb the pillar? We didn't find anything in the way of anchor material on top, we were wondering how long its been since the thing has been summited.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Smith Rock


Diheadreals - Methuselas Column

5 Lead Bolts

2 Anchor Bolts


Diheadreals - Rattle Snake Chimney

1 Lead Bolt


Diheadreals - Bunny Face

6 Hangers

2 Anchors Bolts, to top out.


Diheaderals - Rabbit Stew

2 Anchors Bolts


Cocaine Gully - Hippos On Ice

3 Lead Bolts


All with Jim Ablao 5/9/09

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