TrogdortheBurninator Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Trip: Mountaineers Creek - Various New/Undocumented Date: 1/14/2007 Trip Report: About two weeks, when it was really cold, Eric8 and I went to check out the NF of Index. At lake Serene we encountered deep slop and decided to bail. Much discussion about drive time, conditions, comfort ensued and ultimately we went to leavenworth. Driving up the icicle was a rather depressing look at nearly limitless thinly iced 40 ft slabs. Things were looking a little bleak, so we decided to check out mountaineers creek, where neither of us had climbed. Because we were planning an alpine climb, we didnt have a tent. It was really cold camping overnight (negative F), and it made it hard to pack in a wintry 12 hours of sleep. Approaching mountaineers creek the next morning we were pleasantly rewarded. First, the approach is easy, as in really easy. Much less than an hour to the creek, a few minutes to find a crossing (we crossed on easy frozen rocks, but there was a snowy log alternative), then maybe 15 min to the first climbs. There were ice lines everywhere (only a small glimpse shown): Lines extend from about a quarter mile downstream of the Mr Seattle area up to the Mr Seattle area. In addition a bunch more climbs are found uphill. The guidebook lists only of handful of climbs, but there are many more. After looking around slack jawed, we first tried the unled route left of Mr. Seattle, mentioned in "rumors of ice". Eric led, and immediately encountered climbing much harder than it looked from the ground. The single digit temps resulted in very brittle and very physical ice for all the climbs in the area. Ultimately we decided to just top rope the climb. It was pretty hard, but with more plastic ice it would go. Next we checked out a cool looking line we saw on the approach. I tried to lead it, but got scared at a section of thin brittle ice. Eric took over and styled it. It is about 60 ft of sustained WI3+ with cool exposure and a mixed finish. There is some good rock pro at the top for the exit moves. There is a great tree at the top to rappel from. We decided to call this route "Shorts Over Polypro". That ended the first day, but we were excited to come back. Sunday night was cold, but not as cold as Saturday. On Monday we checked out a few more lines. First we climbed this broad flow to the left of "Shorts Over Polypro". The ice was still really brittle and challenging, but based on the angle it can't really be considered any harder than WI 3. 60 ft of great climbing lead to ~25 ft of snow and another 25 ft WI 2 step. This lead to more snow and a huge belay tree. It is possible to walk off from the intermediate belay ledge, so you could get by with one rope. We however decided to do a 40m rap back to the base. We called this route "Nametag on Helmet." The lower section promptly received multiple TR repeat ascents from a nice couple who arrived as we were finishing up. Next we climbed a route immediately left of "Nametag" starting in a gully, ascending a WI3 flow, then finishing a sketch M2 slab. We decided to call this route "The Ten Essentials" (notice a theme). Finally we scoped out a gorgeous, but short pillar a 200 yards up and left of "Ten essentials". The climbing was great, starting in a groove, moving up to a rest, then moving on to the pillar. The pillar top had bomber rock gear, leading to low angled ice and a final awkward iced over downed tree. There are some small/dead trees just above the ice, but 40 ft up steep snow is a gigantic tree that makes a great anchor. We named this route "Gaiters on Slab" WI3+. I can neither confirm nor deny the presence of large numbers of unclimbed ice and mixed routes in this drainage . Gear Notes: Some screws, including stubbies, decent size rock rack is useful. Approach Notes: Relatively short and super easy. Walk up road until you feel like dropping in to creek. Cross on logs or frozen rocks. Climb whatever looks fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstreet Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Cool! What a fantastic playground. Nice work climbing and exploring so much of it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstreet Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 PS/ Sweet pictures! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 would you ppl stop putting up all the FAs?? I can't keep up dammit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Schweet :tup: The second edition is gonna be twice as big as the first isn't it Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Who's gonna bolt the mixed route to the left of the climber in the 4th picture? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Schweet :tup: The second edition is gonna be twice as big as the first isn't it Alex The guidebook is still practically brand new! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 the mixed potential in that valley is crazy. Most will go ground up on natural gear for those strong enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevino Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Where is mountaineers creek in relation to icicle creek road? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Who's gonna bolt the mixed route to the left of the climber in the 4th picture? Why? For like the one time every twenty years the route comes "in"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbconlin Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Where is mountaineers creek in relation to icicle creek road? approximately perpendicular... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cynicalwoodsman Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 Alex, I'm sure I'll drool all over the new one too! I'm savin' my pennies already! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cynicalwoodsman Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 So I can assume the scene is good in Leavenworth, or just up Mountaineers creek? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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