G-spotter Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 It's a fun moderate day out where you climb lots of pitches, and the last pitch is the crux. Bagging on the UE is like bagging on Royal Arches in Yos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 8, 2007 Author Share Posted January 8, 2007 Anyone done this climb. Your thoughts. Â Buddies of mine say it is WAY lame. Â Hersay at its best! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 8, 2007 Author Share Posted January 8, 2007 It's a fun moderate day out where you climb lots of pitches, and the last pitch is the crux. Bagging on the UE is like bagging on Royal Arches in Yos. Â Well spoken G-spotter, bravo, bravo. Â I usually bag on climbs that are underbolted with little pro, rotten rock and there was a remarkable amount of undo stress involved. The UE has remarkable rock quality, amazing views, lots of good pitches stacked on each other, great protection and you top out on the highest point on ALL the three peaks in Squamish. If you find fault in these things on any giving climb, than check your ego at the door, because its fuckin huge. Â Â Sorry bill, when Mags and I did it, we had no camera. Too bad it was a bluebird day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 Dude Bone  None of the pitches is three-star, and it goes to second summit, not the highest summit.  Hyperbole won't help. It's fun cumulatively. The first and last pitches and a couple of others are decent climbing but some of them are just connection pitches. It runs with water in the spring time and some parts get dirty from that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 8, 2007 Author Share Posted January 8, 2007 Dude Bone None of the pitches is three-star, and it goes to second summit, not the highest summit.  Hyperbole won't help. It's fun cumulatively. The first and last pitches and a couple of others are decent climbing but some of them are just connection pitches. It runs with water in the spring time and some parts get dirty from that.   Ok all that might be correct. I might be a whimp climber but it was my kind of climb. Not sure about the water, only been to Squamish in summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 I usually bag on climbs that are underbolted with little pro, rotten rock and there was a remarkable amount of undo stress involved. Â Shit man hate it when adventure starts to seep into my climbing experience. How dreadful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 8, 2007 Author Share Posted January 8, 2007 Shit man hate it when adventure starts to seep into my climbing experience. How dreadful.   It is my experience that climbers that make statements like this one have big egos. We all climb for different reasons. Don’t forget that. You climb what calls you and I will climb what calls me. In the end, I hope you and I enjoyed the day. For that is what it is all about…..right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 Yeah well, how much you bench? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 No Dirty, you don't seem to understand: numbers mean nothing to him, to the point that he needs to let everyone know how little they mean to him, over and over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 8, 2007 Author Share Posted January 8, 2007 No Dirty, you don't seem to understand: numbers mean nothing to him, to the point that he needs to let everyone know how little they mean to him, over and over. Â Explain please. You make no sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tradclimbguy Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 My wife and I did that one last summer with another couple. I'd been avoiding it for some time hearing it was total crap, but it turned out to be pretty good I thought. We did Diedre and a couple more pitches right above that into the forest. I didn't think the hike in between was too bad but next time I might try the slab pitches further right and see if i can't eek out just a little more climbing between hiking. The second part of the climb was nice and mellow I thought. It had tons of bolts and good pro throughout. A few of the upper pitches were a lot of fun although on the easy side. We ended up doing both finishes, the 11a wasn't bad at all but it wasn't great. I hit the top and lowered back to the belay cleaning on the way down, then lead the traversing 10 which ended up being way better in my mind (5 stars finish). Â I wouldn't rate it above some of the other classics though and I didn't really think it went at 5.9 but more like easy 5.10 on some of the lower bolted pitches, especially if you are short there were a couple long reaches for a 5.9. Then again I hear they rated it 5.9+ just so more people would get on it since a lot of people shy away from anything in the 10 range, whatever. Â I'd probably do the climb again, but in my mind it wasn't worth doing that much. I guess you can get 20+ pitches in although I think we did it in around 16 with a few simul pitches tossed in, whatever felt good. Â I'd say it's about the same as the squaw or angles crest and I'd tack it in at number 3 in that list. On the slightly harder tick list I'd say Freeway followed by the chief and then Millenium Falcon would round out the top. If you feel like you can tackle a few moderate 10's I'd recommend MF way way way over UE. And with MF you can even walk off at BellyGood and avoid a couple nice 11 slab pitches that are well bolted if slab aint yo thang. Â There is my diatribe, can you tell I must need to go climbing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 (edited) I did the UE back a couple years ago. It was, "ok," but I wouldn't call it great. If I remember right the only interesting bit is the last pitch. It might be a better day to hike your gear to the top then rap and climb the last pitch. Afterwards have a nice picnic with a cute woman. That would be a good way to spend the day. Edited January 9, 2007 by AlpineK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 9, 2007 Author Share Posted January 9, 2007 If I remember right the only interesting bit is the last pitch. It might be a better day to hike your gear to the top then rap and climb the last pitch. Â AlpineK, your kidding right? Not if the last pitch was the best single pitch in Squamish would I do this. Half the fun of climbing the LAST pitch is that it is the last pitch of many to summit. Just my thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstach Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 Afterwards have a nice picnic with a cute woman. That would be a good way to spend the day. Â When I climbed it, I toped out to a guy and a cute woman having a nice romantic picnic. And by the looks of things, if I had been 1/2 hour later, I may have seen "the ultimate everything". Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 If anyone wants to know where to find a secret hibachi, for your summit romantic BBQ on the UE, send me a PM. Cause there is one up there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyree Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 Now thats a great idea, a little hot sausage action on the UE. Its a great g-friend/wifey route other than that I thought it was a waste of time and bolts. At least with squamish butt there is a real 5.10 pich at the end. My vote is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 whatEVER. the buttress is a 1-pitch wonder with brushy wanderings below. at least on the UE, the route is pretty much sustained around 5.8 all the way from the highway if you climb sparrow to start, and clean too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 18, 2007 Author Share Posted January 18, 2007 whatEVER. the buttress is a 1-pitch wonder with brushy wanderings below. at least on the UE, the route is pretty much sustained around 5.8 all the way from the highway if you climb sparrow to start, and clean too. Â OMG...for once, I agree with you G-boy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 Now thats a great idea, a little hot sausage action on the UE. Its a great g-friend/wifey route other than that I thought it was a waste of time and bolts. That was my thoughts when I climbed it. You take the odd pitches and the GF takes the even ones, which are easier (except for the last). She'll think she's pulling her weight. Bring steak and charcoal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanstaafl Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 Actually, if you swing leads, each person leads one 7, one 9, and one 9+ pitch, and the person with the odds get a 6 and an 8 while the person with the evens gets a 7 and a 9A0 or 10b. Pretty lame to consider your partner on a climb that evenly divided as not pulling their weight, regardless of which pitches they get. Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 19, 2007 Author Share Posted January 19, 2007 Actually, if you swing leads, each person leads one 7, one 9, and one 9+ pitch, and the person with the odds get a 6 and an 8 while the person with the evens gets a 7 and a 9A0 or 10b. Pretty lame to consider your partner on a climb that evenly divided as not pulling their weight, regardless of which pitches they get. Â You have way too much time on your hands! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 I did the route last year and had a pretty good time. We were the only party on the route that day, which made extra nice. The 10b finish is really fun, and I liked Boomstick crack for the link up. The start move was fun followed by walking the crack to the tree. Likely not worth the hype, but an enjoyable 20+ pitch outing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 19, 2007 Author Share Posted January 19, 2007 I did the route last year and had a pretty good time. We were the only party on the route that day, which made extra nice. The 10b finish is really fun, and I liked Boomstick crack for the link up. The start move was fun followed by walking the crack to the tree. Likely not worth the hype, but an enjoyable 20+ pitch outing   Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanstaafl Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 Dude it took all of three minutes to look at a topo. But you’re right, I should have been planning what to go slay this weekend instead.  When I climbed it (Calculus Crack/Memorial Crack start) I thought it was a pleasant enough moderate day out, but meeting Dirty Harry and Cappellini was easily the most entertaining part of that day.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink_chalk Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 Kevbone: Â Thanks for starting a thread on this particular climb...been wanting to check it out. Sounds like an ultimate top-out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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