Where to begin?

[freethinker]

Yeah so I woke up and decided that I want to climb the Tetons. Then I came to the realization that I want to climb a lot of mountains. Then I came to the realization that I've really never climbed much - other than just dinking around in part of the Wasatch Range.

 

Is there a separation between rock climbing and doing what I've mentioned (climbing mountains)? Is what I'm interested in doing called Mountaineering or is it all just sorta grouped together? Not really interested in doing Everest-type stuff but would love to climb some peaks that maybe aren't so technical.

 

I would ask where to get started but having read through the other thread on this forum, I feel like I've got a decent idea. I'm in Idaho Falls and will probably just start climbing some of the smaller mountains around and what not. Any other suggestions or thoughts?

 

Thanks

 

PS - What type of boots/shoes should I be looking at?

[ClimbingPanther]

Boots: La Sportiva Trango series. Depending on what season you will use them in, you may want to go with one of the insulated versions. Best all-around boot you can buy, in my opinion of course.

[ericb]

You might think about taking a basic climbing course through either a climbing club or guide outfit. It think some of the services around there (Exum???) include some climbing fundamentals training with their climbs (Grand Teton). This is typically the expensive way to go. Clubs (if they exist) are generally less, but spread out the training over more weekends.

 

Pick up Mountaineering, Freedom of the Hills, and probably an Avalanche safety book.

 

If there's no clubs/classes there, and you have some $ and can take a couple weeks off of work, you can take a multi-day alpine climbing course through Mountain Madness, Alpine Ascents, etc. in the Cascades or elsewhere. These are typically 1-2 grand, but pack a lot of learning into a short period of time.

[freethinker]

Thanks for the replies. When I do take on the Tetons I'm certainly going to take a guide or an experienced climber. I saw that book today at a local outdoor shop - looks quite informative. The Sportiva boot looks nice. Wonder how it compares with the Columbia Titanium Ice Field. Thanks again.

[ryland_moore]

Teton Mountain Guides and Exum will take you up the grand in a group type enviuronment. One af my friends and his wife did this and they hadno previous climbing experie nce. I think they take the newbies out to the Park and do some warm-up stuff around Jenny Lake and then head out for two days up the grand. Don't know about costs.....

[kevbone]

You might think about taking a basic climbing course through either a climbing club or guide outfit.

 

I agree.

[freethinker]

Very nice. Will check them out. From what I've heard, there's only one spot while summiting the Grand that can get a little dicey. The rest is pretty straightforward.

[Kevin_Matlock]

Is there a separation between rock climbing and doing what I've mentioned (climbing mountains)? Is what I'm interested in doing called Mountaineering or is it all just sorta grouped together?

 

Some good advice was given in the preceeding posts and guess I'd only add the following regarding the quote above:

Don't get too hung up on being a "mountain climber" or "rock climber" or whatever. Just do what you have fun at and let others label you.

Personally, one of the dead give aways that you AREN'T a mountain climber is when you run around telling people "I'm a mountain climber" (-insert chest beat here-). 'nuff said?

[OrganDonor]

Start reading and look for more experineced partners that can teach you how not to kill yourself. Or be like me, read, start on smaller climbs and work your way up, then read some more. First hand knowledge from an experienced climber is best IMO.

[freethinker]

Thanks for all of the replies so far - excellent advice.

 

FWIW I wasn't looking for labels, just trying to filter through all of the info available on the web and was curious if there was a clear distinction between the two types of climbing.

 

I think I'm going to start riding to and from work and doing some hill climbing around here and then start with some small mountains. I'm really excited to get going! Thanks, again.

[dbconlin]

The Sportiva boot looks nice. Wonder how it compares with the Columbia Titanium Ice Field.

 

They don't:

 

 

[freethinker]

The Sportiva boot looks nice. Wonder how it compares with the Columbia Titanium Ice Field.

 

They don't:

 

 

I gather that you're saying the Sportiva is much better (from my research, they're much higher in price and look a little nicer/more rugged), although being a Newbie, it's hard for me to tell the difference between the two from the pictures. Am I correct, here?

[kcclimber3]

From the pictures, the Columbia doesn't seem to be able to accept either step-in or newmatic crampons. This could be an important difference...not to mention that La Sportiva is a far more accepted mountaineering brand.

[dbconlin]

Also consider:

 

Rigid midsole/shank

Heel bail at minimum, toe bail nice

Vibram sole/good rubber

sticky rubber rand

ankle flexibility

 

While brand name isn't everything, there is a reason certain brands are commonly chosen and others aren't.

 

In my opinion, that Columbia boot would be totally inappropriate for climbing/mountaineering.

 

[freethinker]

Also consider:

 

Rigid midsole/shank

Heel bail at minimum, toe bail nice

Vibram sole/good rubber

sticky rubber rand

ankle flexibility

 

While brand name isn't everything, there is a reason certain brands are commonly chosen and others aren't.

 

In my opinion, that Columbia boot would be totally inappropriate for climbing/mountaineering.

 

That's what I'm talking about - good knowledge and experience. Thanks.

[cynicalwoodsman]

About the boots: yes the columbia's would be good for snowshoes phobably. The Sportiva's 'r fer climbin'. Ultimately it'd be good to have a pair of each type if ya plan on snowshoe'n or ya just get out in the winter to play.

 

If yer gonna be strappin' on or steppin' into crampons you'll need a pair like the sportivas. But don't get hung up on brand names for either style.... feet are fussy, and nothing will test the term "fit" more than hikin', climbin' 'n stuff like that.

 

You'll probably find some brands fit better 'n others. They're all different. Fit is paramount. Nothin's better than happy feet. Or at least nothin' sucks worse than unhappy feet.

 

Also, boots fer climbin' are no fun to hike in. They're uber stiff and they don't give at all! If yer gonna mostly climb. Get a pair of nice stiffies that fit well 'n hike in 'em. It's good "training" for the climbin' and approaches, and ya can still use 'em with snowshoes.

 

Climb on.

[Bug]

... From what I've heard, there's only one spot while summiting the Grand that can get a little dicey. The rest is pretty straightforward.

Dicey for me after many years of climbing. It is very easy climbing but the exposure is around 1000'. That is enough to mess with your head and make you do something stupid.

 

Yes, boot fit is most important.

But for beginning climbing, you might not need the really stiff boots. Find a few cheaper boots to test out. Look in second hand stores and garage sales. Until you are really sure about what you want your boots to do and how to fit them to your feet, don't spend a bunch of money. I slog up Rainier with hiking boots and flexible crampons. If you are getting into ice climbing then you need the stiff boots. If you are getting into alpine rock and snow, lighter boots are better.

The climbing style is important. Laces that allow you to control the snugness around your lower foot and toes is important.

Those Titanium ice fields would not be adjustible at all for the lower foot. I would not even consider them for mountaineering if I were you.

[joeschmoe]

freethinker...listen to the advice on mountaineering boots. They are gonna hurt like hell, especially in the beginning. Like a lot of equip, it is better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. For hard ice climbs/glaciers, you will need crampons and should have a full shank solid boot, double or not. I have a love/hate relationship with my old Koflac's...I got them used at a scratch/dent sale at REI several years ago and replaced the inner boot for a new fit. I lucked out, I guess. Keep watch for some used ones. Beware, new means lots of benjis...

[mattp]

For many of the summits in the Tetons, all you need is a good pair of hiking boots (just about any kind will do) and some common sense -- not the Grand or Mount Owen or Mount Moran, perhaps, but several of the others.

 

If you want to go for it on your own, I say go for it and have a good time. Keep your stupidity in check, climb EARLY in the day (thunderstorms are pretty regular in the afternoons), and choose summits that the guidebook says are class three. You don't need a guide or any significant technical skills exept snow climbing skills for these, and you'll have a great time. (Steep snow can be dangerous, though, so watch out!)

 

Just pay attention and try not to get killed on that stream crossing where you fall through a thin snowbridge and end up beneath the snowpack or the gully where a brief step on the wrong rock will result in the big ride. There are lots of ways you could hurt yourself, but most of the danger is fairly obvious if you are paying attention. Don't underestimate what a loose piece of rock may do to you, or what you may cause it to do.

 

To answer one of your first questions, the Tetons are definitely a "mountaineering" range in that you will have to employ techniques and judgment related to "real" mountain climbing. They are big, there are lots of steep snow slopes, the weather changes quickly, route finding can be complicated, etc. etc. But they are a great range and in times past it was thought that the Tetons was THE place to train for alpine climbing in the United States. The best climbs are generally the technical rock routes, long and moderate by "modern" standards but both challenging and exciting in most climbers' book. Whether you go backpacking or climb the North Face of the Grand, the Tetons rock.

[Mark_Husbands]

i would get a pair of sportiva makalus or somehthing similar, strap on crampons, and a 70cm ice axe. Get someone to show you ice axe arrest technique and practice on a little slope. Then find some local climbs that are class 3 rock and/or 40 degree snow. bag some summits with good friends. then think about a longer/more serious snow climb like Mt. Shasta or maybe Hood where you can get a lot of mileage on crampons and the feel of a big mountain.

 

at the same time, get some friends to take you out top-roping on a rock crag or even in a climbing gym. perhaps read about basic multi-pitch rock climbing progression. try a multi-pitch rock climb when you are ready.

 

at some point the rock climbing and mountain climbing will intersect.

 

decide now that you never want to climb a big wall or go on an alaskan expedition and then later, wonder why you didnt pay attention to yourself. have fun.

[dbconlin]

In my opinion, there is no reason to get strap-on crampons with a mountaineering boot. Hybrids/newmatic are the most versatile.

[freethinker]

Thanks for all of the tremendous information and advice. A local outdoor had some Asolo Fugitives and FSN 95's that I tried on today . They felt pretty good. The salesperson indicated that for the Tetons in the summer, that's all that I would need. Being from Oregon, I get back there to visit so I'll probably want to do Hood and the Sisters at some point so it sounds like I'll probably want to get something that accepts crampons.

 

The Vasque Alpinista looks nice as it is a single boot design so it probably wouldn't get too warm for summer climbs. Does it have enough bend though to navigate what I might find around the peaks of the Tetons? Anyone have any experience with the alpinista? Thanks.

[montypiton]

hey Freethinker - I grew up in Idaho Falls - check out the Idaho Falls Alpine Club. The guys I knew there would be pretty old by now, (I'm in my mid-50s) but that club was a great source of instruction for the boy-scout group that were my first climbing partners. And before you dump several hundred dollars into boots, consider that for summer climbing in the Tetons, most experienced climbers use "approach" shoes, unless they're planning on climbing ice. Even for Hood and the Sisters, a decent pair of medium-weight hikers may be all you need for starters... as you get into it, you may be surprised how much mountaineering is done in running shoes! good luck!