joeschmoe

Lookouts can be rented and must be reserved in advance. Here is the link for the cabins/lookouts and reservation info http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/recreation/rentals/

No, Pamelia Lk. road is not plowed, but they sometimes plow open the road entrance so x-skiers can park there and get off hwy 22. I was up there the Sat. after Thanksgiving on a snowshoe trip up the Grizz. and there was about 16" of snow on the road but we still managed to drive all the way to the trail head. Beware though, that the trail washed out very badly back in Oct/early Nov during the flooding and it now has a lot of big boulders and blown downs. Someone did go through and flag the trail, but we found it easier to get to the lake with map/compass than following the route through the boulders (as if you could get lost there, anyway...it's a straight shot to the lake). One bit of good news...the bathroom at the trailhead is brandspanking new as of the fall. I will post an update on the access board if I hear anything else.

I used to be a gear junkie too...but have given a lot of stuff away to SAR over the years or loaned it out and never gotten it back. Now I just stick with what works and what I use the most. I tend to be more thrifty in my old age...if KK were closer I would hook her up with some stuff

How did D-a-n Osman die?

don't forget to check sierratradingpost.com you can get some great deals there. go to their site and request a free catalog

EDIT: this is really weird: I keep typing "D-a-n Osman" but some crazy reason, CC makes it appear as "he Osman", no matter how I try to correct it. Go figure. The word D-a-n will not appear. sk8r...I know...it was driving me nuts too, D-a-n just will not come up, must be a glitch in the forum type somewhere...not sure whether or not I saw the Osman video...send me a link if you have it. I got that one from a member of a climbers e-group. back to workkk on the dreaded first day of the year..augh!

thanks sk8r...I have been trying to get this post up on another forum, but it keeps coming out weird for some reason. I think I have a keyboard glitch tonight...check this out...a good video of what the best of the best can do http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4832527121139830698

i give up

testing, 1 2 3 dan, dan, dan

what's up with this dang keyboard! it is DAN POTTER

that would be Dan Potter, on the nose...July 2006

I hate computers...sometimes

Kat; Well, that’s a loaded question. Technically, alpine means above the tree line, so alpine rock climbing is climbing a rocky mountain above the tree line. If you are climbing just rock, the kind of boot/shoe depends on the rock type. Most NW rock climbs can be done in a good flexible pair of cross trainers, though places like a gym, Smith Rock and some granite climbs require bona fide rock climbing shoes (small tight shoes with sticky soles for rock climbing only). I have soloed Mt. Washington here in Oregon (a volcanic rhyolite mtn that is all rock climbing, except for the approach) many times in just my Saucony runners, but I have seen climbers on the routes with rock shoes, too. If you are carrying a heavy pack, though, you need more support than a pair of trail runners. Rock shoes should NEVER be used for anything but rock climbing or you will ruin them. To me, mountaineering is climbing with technical equipment like crampons/harness/ropes, etc. whether it is rock/snow/ice or a mixture of two or three of those. Some climbers do the approach in a pair of good hiking boots, then don the mountaineering boots (very stiff boots that can be used with crampons) for glacier/ice/snow, though some don’t like lugging the extra wt. of a heavy boot in their pack, so they just wear the mountaineering boots for the hike too (which are very expensive, and very stiff with no flexibility but are warm and great for snow, but hella hard on your feet on dry ground). Ice climbing is just that, climbing ice, whether it be a frozen waterfall, a glacier headwall/crevasse or an icy snowfield, all of which require crampons (the metal spikes that fit on the soles of your boots). You can use a good stiff hiking boot with some crampons for hard snowfields but it is never recommended if you will be on ice or any steep slope (the flexibility of the boot won’t allow you to dig into the ‘good ice’ and will slip off the hold too easily). You may not get to use crampons in your climb school until you are actually on a climb that requires them, but walking in them is easy to master, with practice. I hope that answered your question. I tried to post this once and lost the connection before I sent it and had to retype…augh!

Kat; Well, I just spent 20 mins posting a reply and my wireless computer connection timed out...AUGH. I will post it again in a few mins.

Kat; Well, I just spent 20 mins posting a reply and my wireless computer connection timed out...AUGH. I will post it again in a few mins.

freethinker...listen to the advice on mountaineering boots. They are gonna hurt like hell, especially in the beginning. Like a lot of equip, it is better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. For hard ice climbs/glaciers, you will need crampons and should have a full shank solid boot, double or not. I have a love/hate relationship with my old Koflac's...I got them used at a scratch/dent sale at REI several years ago and replaced the inner boot for a new fit. I lucked out, I guess. Keep watch for some used ones. Beware, new means lots of benjis...

ATC is an 'Air Traffic Controller' belay device...not the kind that works in airports...YOU are the air traffic. Here's a link to some good descriptions. http://www.rei.com/online/store/Search?storeId=8000&query=*&cat=4500695&vcat=REI_SEARCH:C click on the 'how to choose a belay device' and they give you all the info you need. I know a lot of folks on here don't like REI, but our store here in Eugene, OR is staffed with some great folks with a lot of experience. I also like to shop online for good deals. If you go to a rock gym, they will likely have lots of different ones for you to try out and see what works best. A climbing gym is great if you plan on rock climbing, but it is unrealistic climbing, especially for a newbie...but anything is better than nothing. I had a very positive experience with climbing clubs (small ones) and I highly recommend them. I now lead a very small club at my workplace for my pals. Clubs are certified to teach you climbing safety...the right way. Once you learn the 'ropes' and have climbed with some experienced climbers and learned a few routes, you can venture out with just a few pals and have some real fun. Everyone starts somewhere, but there is safety in numbers. I used to work as a volunteer in search and rescue (not in Oregon)and I taught an outdoor survival class for years, so you are going to get a lot of saftey-minded advice from me...sorry 'bout that. You don't need rock climbing shoes for climb school...but you will eventually if you choose to do rock climbing. I go over to Smith Rock a few times each summer, and I enjoy it, but nothing beats actual alpine rock climbing to the summit of a great mtn. with a great view...climbing gyms can't give you that. Go to climb school and then get out and really enjoy what the NW has to offer. Feel free to keep in touch via email and PM's here. jo

ditto climbingpanther...NEVER NEVER EVER...no matta what others say, don't do it, unless you enjoy the 'glory/shame' of being rescued...the SAR guys will appreciate our advice on this one

oops..that would be Dean Potter

hey tex, I wonder what Dan Potter's resolutions are...check this out http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4832527121139830698

thanks for the reminder about gearmail...I accidentally marked rei as spam and haven't been getting the coupon mail lately. I'm looking for a new rope

KK; If you are definitely serious about learning to climb, DO NOT purchase a used harness...you life literally depends on the quality of your equipment. If you borrow one, have an expert check it out for weak spots. A harness that is comfortable and fits well should be your first purchase, the second being a good locking 'biner and an ATC (or equivalent). Again, accept used equip with care. When I first started climbing in the late '80s I bought one or two items each paycheck until I had all the basics. I have replaced it all at least 2x or more. Lots of folks here have good advice. Take your time and don't buy impulsively. Just get the basics you need for climb school. Rent the ice axe, plastic boots (you will learn soon enough that plastic boots are hell on your feet), helmet and crampons for now...choose what works best later. I will be leading a small group up Mt. Adams in August...you are welcome to join us. By then, ice axe and crampons are all the climbing equip you will need, other than backpacking gear. Speaking of that... I can't emphasize enough that you get out and do some backpacking with a load (if you are not already a backpacker). I had a newbie on her fist climb ever (Adams as well)who was a marathon runner and in incredible shape, but she had NEVER carried a heavy pack before. It was a big snow pack year ('99 I think) and we had to park all the way down at Morrison Creek to start the climb (from about 3000')up to the lunch counter to base camp...long climb with full packs. She only made it as far as the first 3 miles in before dropping out and heading back (I walked her out and then caught up with the others later). Responsible leaders/assistants should never let others go back alone...at least that is my philosophy. Buying a pack is a whole 'nother ball game, where comfort rules the day...I will gladly help you with that too, if you wish. A good pack should be your most expensive single piece of gear (other than a good tent). Remember, it is OK if you don't summit when you don't feel you can physically do it. It is better to tell your fellow climbers you can't make it as early as you feel you can't make it. They will get over it. A team is only as strong as the weakest member. I tell folks to work hard at developing strong legs. If they give out on you, you don't have a choice but to retreat...if you get tired, you can rest...but good quads/hams are a must. But (I can't emphisize this one enough) the one essential piece of gear is your brain. Climb smart, always. Have fun, set a goal, and work hard to achieve it...you can do it grrrl!! jo

I know one of the rangers up there because I call that station a lot for updates on the area...they will appreciate knowing whether or not they get to it any time soon. I know a group will be up that way over the MLK holiday and I will inform their leader of it as well. Thanks again! Happy New Year

Thanks for the info on the Whitewater Creek Road access. How far up is the snow line right now? Did you drive all the way to the blockage? I am heading that way in a few weeks. I was in there at the Chemeketan cabin (but no further) over Thanksgiving weekend on a snowshoe trip to Pamelia Lake and the snow was at about 2500'. You should also post the info on the Access Report forum (on first page of forums). I will call the Detroit Ranger Station and report the downed tree (how big is it?). Thanks again.

You should probably get more beta on the Three Sisters Marathon before you plan the trip. I have never done all three in just 1-2 days, but I have friends who have done so and they all do the North one first. I recommend this as well (but some folks may differ with me on that). North is the one of the three that requires ropes and pro and you want to be fresh and strong and have your wits about you as you cross the Bowling Alley, especially if there is snow on the traverse...and don't forget your helmet! I have a yearly tradition since 1996 of doing a SSSS (South Sista' Summit Sleepover) in the month of August during the Persid (sp?) meteor shower...pj's are required (unless you are a nudie) and so is a mandatory bottle of wine to celebrate (although once we took Absolut Vodka, needless to say I slept very well at 10,000' and I think at least one person joined the 10,000' club with their partner, or so I heard)!