slothrop Posted June 3, 2002 Posted June 3, 2002 Sweet! Thanks for the info, Dru. So the harder 11a section is the only part that's bolted? What sort of gear do you need? Quote
Dru Posted June 3, 2002 Author Posted June 3, 2002 There are lots o bolts not only on the 11a as a lot of it follows juggy dykes. (Trask?) You also need a standard rack to 3 inches. Quote
allthumbs Posted June 3, 2002 Posted June 3, 2002 Well, you certainly have the 3" covered, don't you Dru? Quote
Dru Posted June 3, 2002 Author Posted June 3, 2002 I always take one 8 inch piece along just in case Quote
Dru Posted June 3, 2002 Author Posted June 3, 2002 quote: Originally posted by dberdinka: What good is a juggy dyke?! If you are one you might appreciate another one. You might object to a guide drilling you though. Quote
allthumbs Posted June 3, 2002 Posted June 3, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: I always take one 8 inch piece along just in case is that a strap-on for wannabees? Quote
fishstick Posted June 4, 2002 Posted June 4, 2002 Superb route! Hat's off to Kris for an exceptionally well thought out effort. Â GB Quote
jordop Posted June 4, 2002 Posted June 4, 2002 What ever happened to the attempt to put up a moderate multi pitch in the area of the Dihedrals/Crap Crags? I'm not thinking of the DeMenech/Maddaloni 12d nightmare; I could've sworn I heard about another. Or am I just smoking crack on this one? This is what Squamish needs! I sure hope Wild is getting kickbacks from the tourist bureau or the chamber of commerce, cause Peasants Route and the new Echelon thing are easing the pressure on the the moderate classics we all know and love. Â [ 06-03-2002, 09:59 PM: Message edited by: jordop ] Quote
Dru Posted June 4, 2002 Author Posted June 4, 2002 Local Squamish guide Kris Wild has finished this years scrubbing project. A new 10 pitch route from above the Apron up to Second Summit of the Chief. All 5.9 and easier* except as noted below. This is basically a clean version of Echelon which you can look up in your guidebook. Â A topo can be found at Valhalla Pure in Squamish (same mall as the Starbucks). Â Basically: climb any route on the Apron. Then climb up Boomstick Crack or Memorial Crack as for Squamish Buttress. Hike to the base of Kashmir wall/Squamish buttress, then go left along trail into gully. Downclimb gully about 150m to large obvious clean corner (visible from approach). Climb obvious cleaned line trending up through forested ledges. 10 pitches of 5.9, except last pitch is 11a or 5.9 and 3 A0 moves pulling on bolts. A ramp pitch to the left of this will allow a true 5.easy finish but hasnt been cleaned yet. Â So basically this together with the Apron route of your choice will be an all free, clean, ~16 pitch 5.9 route topping out on the summit of the Chief - a good option for those for whom Squamish Buttress and Angels Crest are too hard or if you have already done them multiple times. Quote
Dru Posted June 4, 2002 Author Posted June 4, 2002 You are smoking crack Peters. The moderate line has always been in the vicinity of Echelon, and Warriors of the Wasteland is 12a not 12d. Quote
fern Posted June 4, 2002 Posted June 4, 2002 Bruce Stover scrubbed and fitted something in the W. Dihedrals last year in the vicinity of Illusion, I can't remember how 'moderate' it is but it was easier than 5.12. I'm pretty sure it's in one of the new route logs. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 4, 2002 Posted June 4, 2002 Does Hugh Heffner have the ultimate everthing Naked hard body babes surrounding and fondling him. Quote
Dru Posted June 4, 2002 Author Posted June 4, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Does Hugh Heffner have the ultimate everthing Naked hard body babes surrounding and fondling him. Ya silicion jugs, that is "hardbody" literally. Quote
Necronomicon Posted September 7, 2002 Posted September 7, 2002 Does anyone have a topo for this route? I thought that there was one posted here, but I can't seem to find it... Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 7, 2002 Posted September 7, 2002 It's on Bivouac.com adn supplied by Steve Harng Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 7, 2002 Posted September 7, 2002 Thanks to Steve Harng and Dru Sprayshaw. Â Some other notes are that it is available at Valhalla Pure in Squishy. Â ***Notes from Steve Harng on Bivouac.com below*** Â Story: Dave Gerbrandt and I went searching for this route last weekend when we heard its existence on the north side of the South Gully. We didn't know a map was availible from Valhalla, so we thrashed up from the base of the Shariffs Badge and towards the South Gully...bad idea. With some luck we found the start of the route, a lot closer to the gully then the badge. We hop on the climb and had an easy day of climbing in a beautiful setting. Â This area is brand new in terms of climbing route development. Shouldn't have given that away... :-) Â Access: Approach to the route is on the map; it's pretty simple. The map is available to everyone in Vahalla, if you ask and pay 25 cents to the store. ***End of Steve Harng notes*** Quote
Necronomicon Posted September 8, 2002 Posted September 8, 2002 Climbed this route on Saturday with Mike (part of a 23p day) and feel that it should be named "The Ultimate Something-Or-Other" Many thanks to the FA folks for there labors (which must have incluced a fair amount of shoveling) though, for they have provided an easy route to the summit for slobs like myself. We found the difficulties very short-lived, and felt that the route was a tad over-bolted (for Squish). The 8th pitch has a bolt next to a perfect gear placement, for example. THE HORROR!! In all, though, an awesome romp with awesome views, and a touch of the for too oh on the summit to boot. -J Quote
layton Posted September 8, 2002 Posted September 8, 2002 Yeah, it's a fun way to top out on the cheif. If you haven't topped out on the chief, do Angel's Crest. I'd say the Ultimate Everything is just as good as the Squamish Butt, except there is no one "stellar" pitch. I'd down-grade every pitch by a number, however so the folks from Wyoming,Canmore,and Cali don't think we're pussies. Some bolts could be chopped to make it more sporting. I'll 2nd Necro's thanks to the F.A. party. That wasn't an easy line to spot, and our waltz came from a LOT of hard work for which I am very very grateful. You guys are awesome and thanks for the new route present. Â If you are a 5.8 climber, you can do this route and have fun on it w/o being scared or run-out, I promise! Â For the hardmen...lots of new variations abound! For example, there is a really hard lookin crack just left of the one on pitch 5. Bring the big guys. Â Time-wise, it took us and a party from Canmore 3 hours. It can be done much faster, and of course, much slower. We're average climbers, so don't get up toooo early (like we did). Also, we didn't bring 2 ropes, and I think if it rained, we would be FINE finishing the route, even if it was wet and slimy concidering the pro, and short-lived cruxes. Of course, I'm not responsible if you do get fucked following this bit of info. Â [ 09-08-2002, 04:18 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ] Quote
snoboy Posted September 12, 2002 Posted September 12, 2002 OK y'all, Just a few things about the Ultimate Everything. The 25 cents goes to the bolt fund, not to the store. As for the "folks" who shoveled and scrubbed - it was all cleaned and equipped by one person! Let us all give thanks to the wild child. Quote
genepires Posted September 12, 2002 Posted September 12, 2002 FYI for anybody heading out that way. It rained hard on sunday and monday. We did it 2 days after the rain and there is still run off on the first 2 and the fourth pitches. Those pitches are natural water courses. Probably wouldn't be such a good route right after a rain storm as there are forests that will drain water for quite a while. (Unless you enjoy wet 5.6 moves, you alpine hardmen) Quote
Dru Posted September 27, 2002 Author Posted September 27, 2002 Speaking from personal experience I can say that this pitch is probably much better now that it's clean and all the rotten trees have been removed Quote
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