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Winter

Katahdin Beta Request

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I'm doing a little research for a trip back east to vist the family this summer. We're hoping to have some time to climb Katahdin. Anyone have any good beta on the technical routes? Can't seem to find much on the web. Any good guidebook suggestions? Thanks. :brew:

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IMCS ( http://www.ime-usa.com/imcs/index.html ) in N.Conway could point you in the right direction, as well as suggest alternatives if the red tape get to be to big of an issue.

 

I can't comment on summer climbs, but winter accents require alot of paper work, resumes of each climber, who the group leader will be, gear checks by rangers before the start of a climb, and parties must set out by 6am for any technical route.

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Hey Chris,

The Knife Edge is awesome! Other than that, I have no idea. I did this so long ago (freshman in college I think!)I can't really remember what the rock was like, but I'm sure any technical routes would be awesome. You'll have to let me know what you find out. If it isn't tourist season yet you should hit the climbing in Acadia, it's awesome!

-Sue

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Hey Sue, what up? Thanks for the beta. I'd really like to find some info on the more techincal routes but am having some trouble digging it up. I'll track down some of the leads.

 

Did you hear about the earthquake on Acadia earlier this year? Apparently it sent down some serious rock fall at the Precipice/Story of O area and shut it down to climbing for the time being - bummer. Not sure what the current status is. We climbed there in 2004 and loved it. We plan to pass through Acadia again this summer and will do some more climbing as well.

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...but winter accents require alot of paper work, resumes of each climber, who the group leader will be, gear checks by rangers before the start of a climb, and parties must set out by 6am for any technical route.

 

You're shitting us right? They've got staff for that?

 

I guess this sort of shite might not be that far off for us out here, given the latest Hood falderal. :rolleyes:

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Winter,

 

Ya, Katahdin is somewhat famous back east for being on of the few mountains requiring permits/paperwork to be allowed access, especially in winter, due to its relative remoteness (as well as the excess of city boneheads.)

 

If I remember right, there is a classic knife edge rock traverse route that has always looked incredible in the pictures. I can't remember the name of it, but I am sure the Apppalachian Mountain Club and/or their guidebook to Katahdin will show you the info in detail. http://www.amazon.com/Katahdin-Guide-Baxter-Park/dp/0974167762

 

I don't think the traverse is a tech route, but for a "hike" it sure looks like one.

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That's going to be a great trip Chris. No, I hadn't heard about Acadia, that's crazy. I wonder how much the routes were affected.

I'm hoping to make it back east sometime this spring/summer myself. I've haven't been back in almost 2 years, so it's probably time! Plus I'd really like to get to the Gunks and maybe White Horse and Cathedral in NH.

Hope you guys have a good New years, see you soon?

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Thanks the beta guys. Much appreciated. I'll check out that guide book but I couldn't tell if it had the rock routes in it or just the walk ups so was kind of hesitant to buy it.

 

Sue, let me know if you're gonna be back east sometime around the end of July early August 'cause that's when K and I wil be there.

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One time I went ice climbing in New Hampshire and it was whack. People from New Hampshire are whack.

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I remember reading that Messner and Haebeler got hassled by the rangers (i.e. need resumes and gear list plus an early start) to climb.

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And don't show up on a motorcycle. Baxter State Park doesn't allow them. At least they didn't when I was there. :mad:

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Get there before 6 am if you are going to climb in the summer. There's a long lineup of cars and they have a limit of how many people they let in. I used to try to be there by about 5:30 and never had a problem. The ranger station in Millinocket is open all year, so you could call them. They're probably pretty bored right now.

 

 

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You could try asking or searching on the NEclimbs.com forum. There is alot of info on routes in a notebook at the chimney pond ranger station. The best idea would be to get into the park the day before a stay up there, to get in the day of the climb won't always work because the cars start lining up at the gate in the middle of the night and they only allow a certain number into the Roaring brook lot. I've climbed Pamola 4 (5.4)and Armadillo (5.6) in the summer, both easy and very scenic but you need large cams for Armadillo (60 ft fist size crack). there is a 5.10 to the right of armadillo called flat iron and a long 5.9 or 10 in the north basin called Black Fly (much bigger cliff)

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Hey Winter,

 

The only guide book for the Katahdin area is up at the rangers camp at Chimney Pond. Technically you are suppose to register for any rock climbing excursion at Chimney Pond, make sure to bring your 10 essentials and helmet or they might not let you go, they are pretty strick, it is pretty rediculus. If you climb in the Chimney Pond basin it is pretty hard to skip checking in with the ranger. Probably the most classic route up there is the Armadillo. It goes at 5.7+, several hundred feet of slab climbing broken up with blueberry ledges (5.5), to the right hand side of an obvious triangular feature, climb the chimney for 1 pitch (5.7+), to the base of nice hand/fist crack (5.7+) protects well with #3 Camelot, follow crack to arete, then the arete to the Knifes Edge (4th class easy 5th). The Knifes Edge is not as extreme as people make it out to sound. It is a hike. The are other routes such as the The Diamond (5.9) and The Flatirons (5.9) that are in Chimney Pond basin that look good, but I would suggest going to Hamlin Basin.

 

In Hamlin Basin (ie north basin) there is a 1000 foot wall that has some great climbing on it. It is NW of Chimney pond and can be seen as you are hiking to Chimney Pond. The great thing about it you can easily forgo visiting the rangers to discuss a climb. Good clean granite considering it may get climbed once or twice a year. I done a few routes up there a while ago and drew up a topo and all, but I am not sure if I still have it. If I find it I will post it. On that wall you can find anything from 5.6 to 5.11. The left side of the wall is easier and not so steep and lots of ledges the right is little less than vertical. Basically everytime I have gone there I just go to the base scope a line a go. (Note: Black Fly is an ice climb)

 

There is another wall that is call Klondike, it is up and over Hamlin Peak to the west. I have never been there but it is rumored to be about a 1000 feet. It is a difficult area to get to since there are no trails. Bushwhacking on the east coast is quite difficult and if you are not familar with the area I would reccomend against it. Also you would probably need a backcountry permit which are hard to get.

 

There are a couple of other smaller cliffs, but they are very remote and again would need a back country permit. Dude have fun. If you are skipping visiting the ranger for a climb definitely keep all signs that you are a climber inside the pack. Also definitely get at the gate super early, I think it opens at 7am but it best to be there first thing.

 

Well is sounds like you already been to Acadia, crazy to hear about the earth quake. Also for some good climbing and Acadia has some great stuff. Don't bother with Otter cliff's that is where all the bumblies go and there are usually masses of tourons there. For some hard exciting routes go to Great Head, the easiest climbs there are 5.8-5.9 and they up from there to 5.13. Facing the cliff on the left hand side there is an awesome 10+ blunt arete, I would highly reccomend. Check the tides before you go!

 

Mt Champlain Precipice has great climbing there to beautiful cragging with ocean views. I had many of times out on that cliff climbing There are a ton of classic routes there. There is also several other cliffs scattered on the island. There is a rock shop in town where you can probably get a guide book and or info.

Edited by ken4ord

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Ok, no some real beta - thanks Ken. Much appreciated. I'd love to see the topo you have if you manage to track it down.

 

 

 

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you might have already seen this page on SP?? There are a few rock routes (not the best pages :rolleyes:) in the routes section. Not sure if this helps but here you go. Katadin

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Alright Holmes, here is some pictures. I looked around for my notebook and I think it is in my storage unit back in Seattle. Sorry I can't offer much more detail, but at least the pictures might help you get oriented up there.

 

This view is from the north of the Chimney Pond Basin, up on Cathedral Trail (I think it Cathedral Trail), so from the pond it will look quite different. Go around right side of pond to approach climbers trails going into the basin.

Mount_katahdin.jpg

 

Ok this picture is from the east from Pamola Slide trail.

baxter_1.jpg

 

 

Here is a picture of North Basin wall. As you are hiking up to Chimney Pond you will see a trail cutting off to the right for Blueberry Knoll (sign posted). From Bluberry Knoll it is pretty obious where to go.

North_Basin.jpg

 

 

 

 

Moto what the hell are you talking about, I haven't a clue?????

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