jonmf76

I've spent over 30 years using the clove hitch to clip in with no problems ever. It is simple, it works, it's adjustable and the most important thing...IT'S SIMPLE! There are no rules. Always make your own as you go. ALWAYS think for yourself. That's what makes a leader.

sounds more like your feet are the ones needing to be broken in..

- cell phone (some spots get perfect reception 16,200, decent at 14k, etc..) - FM radio for the hours stuck in tent. - crazy creek chair - stove board (1/4" plywood sheet w/ or w/o metal on one side) - -40 down gore-tex bag. no point in being cold if you don't have to. - down pants if you can spare the weight and space. saves calories and misery. - down jacket goes without saying - book? trade with others en route? 1 qt nalgene's with insulated covers for putting in your sleeping bag at night filled with boiling water. one at your ankles, one at your gut. there's plenty more...

I have been teaching students to tie a knot in the end of their rap rope and they all just laugh (other instructors included), even though rapping off the end of the rope seems like it might be the most common cause of death in climbing. Maybe living just isn't that cool...it must be cooler to fall off the end of your rope.

You guys are clearly a bunch of dumb pussies. 30 of you looked at this post and not one of you had an original thought on the topic. Is everyone on this board an asshole for a specific reason or were you just born that way?

Phil, Again, you missed the point. I DON'T feel that way, but you go tell anyone in the climbing world that you didn't make the summit of a mountain, and that is the response you will get..

Phil, You missed the point.

Over the years of slide shows and talks I have given, it has occured to me that the most important course has never been taught. And that is specifically about when to retreat from a climb. Retreating has been made into an embarrassment, when it is actually sound judgement and climbing wisdom in action. "Oh, you didn't summit? Too bad your climb was a failure.." OK, talk amongst yourselves..

OK, all the recent deaths in the climbing world, combined with my own personal experiences got me to thinking about how far we are all willing to go for a route. Having seen corpses on mountains and in the wilderness and coming close to becoming one myself a number of times has changed my entire view of my climbing and my pursuits as a climber. Is it worth it coming that close to death? I don't think so anymore. I like living. I like life. "They died doing what they loved" This, to me, is a weak excuse for taking too much risk. And yes, there is such a thing as too much risk. When you don't come back from a trip, you've crossed that line. So how many of you have actually seen corpses on mountains or rivers, etc. and how has it changed your approach, if at all? And are you secure enough to admit it? Why is it considered cool to die doing what you love? In the old days, it wasn't considered cool to die climbing. We did every route in as precise control as we could, with the ultimate goal of getting back down. I remember Climbing Magazine had a miniscule Obituary page 20 yrs. ago. In the late 80's and early 90's it seemed to bloom into a long list, mostly of guys found dead at the bottom of a cliff from free soloing falls. So why has falling to your death become glamorous? And please, drop the juvenile personal attacks. They serve no purpose.

21-ML-47497-ML- The OP took it down to Spray level on his third post...

Winter, Ya, Katahdin is somewhat famous back east for being on of the few mountains requiring permits/paperwork to be allowed access, especially in winter, due to its relative remoteness (as well as the excess of city boneheads.) If I remember right, there is a classic knife edge rock traverse route that has always looked incredible in the pictures. I can't remember the name of it, but I am sure the Apppalachian Mountain Club and/or their guidebook to Katahdin will show you the info in detail. http://www.amazon.com/Katahdin-Guide-Baxter-Park/dp/0974167762 I don't think the traverse is a tech route, but for a "hike" it sure looks like one.

Scarpa Invernos with both high altitude liner and the regular one. The most comfortable double plastic I have ever worn.

I am on my 7th Suunto Vector, but I love it. The only problem is that it is quite large and catches on stuff all the time. I beat the crap out of them and they lose their seal and get all steamy inside. It is super accurate though...to 10'

One of the ones with a loop pole can make a sack a lot more bearable. If weight is your primary concern then they aren't as good, but if you've ever slept in one in a storm completely sealed, you'll appreciate the space around your face. Talk about claustrophobia! Velcro closures are really nice when you want to get out fast and you're covered in a layer of ice from the previous night's freezing rain then snow..

Just get the ACR personal locator beacon (406 MhZ) located here: http://www.acrterrafix.com/ Your family wants you to be able to get rescued if you break your leg way out there snowshoeing, right? BTW, get the Terrafix with the built in GPS. It is about $100 more, but it pinpoints your location more accurately. Avalanche beacons are only useful if you are traveling in a group where the others have one and can attempt to find you buried under the snow within the first few minutes after an avalanche. Otherwise, they don't call 911 for you..Conversely, the PLB won't do much for you if you are buried in a pile of snow either.

KitCat, The best way to learn how to climb is to climb. And the best way to improve is to climb with someone better than you. And the easiest (not necessarily the best) way to find fellow climbers you can join with is to join your local mountaineering club. Long ago, before there were "classes" for climbing, people just went out with other climbers and the knowledge was passed on that way. That is, by far, the best way to learn. Gym climbing won't really teach you much, except climbing gymnastics, which is fine for exercise. But most gym climbers never leave the cushy comfort of a warm, dry gym. I have yet to meet any serious climbers in a gym, though I am sure there are a few somewhere. Mostly you meet people with cool clothes and even cooler attitudes...but not many real climbers. Learning to climb is kind of like learning to ride a bicycle...a million people can tell you technically how to do it, but ultimately, you have to get on the thing and peddle...same with climbing. One suggestion I have is to do a lot of hiking and to hike things that get progressively steeper as you go along, until you eventually are on class IV terrain. If you are unfamiliar with class IV it is basically hiking where you occasionally use your hands for balance. Next you get to class V, rock climbing. I would NOT recommend doing any traditional lead climbs until you are completely comfortable leading sport climbs (with bolts already in place) and following another climber's lead pitch. I have known of a number of people who tried to lead traditional climbs when they were beginners and some of them hit the ground - from up high. That usually ends their climbing career one way or another. As for gear, buy it where you feel comfortable. There is nothing wrong with REI, they're just big and many people don't like the big guy, no matter what. But they have enough gear to get you started. If you prefer to shop with the local shop, plan on spending more for the same thing, but keeping food on someone's table in the process. Sometimes only one place will have what you need, so the decision is made for you. For training, we used to lift hand weights, do lots of pullups (especially 4, 3 and eventually 2 fingers pullups when we got strong.) A Bachar ladder is a great training tool. It is essentially a rope ladder with rungs of large dowels that you stretch between 2 points at a 45 degree angle or so and climb the underside, with just your arms. Go up and down that thing a few times and you'll be gettin' ripped! But the training is perfect for climbing. And lastly, gym climbing is a good way to keep your fingers and forearms in shape. Real rock is the best, because you will also be developing a "head for climbing," which most gym climbers lack these days. They can pull superhard climbs inside, but when they get on real rock, they have little idea of what to do. This is why no one had any idea of how to "train for climbing" at your local gym - because they aren't real climbers, just gym rats..which is perfectly fine for exercise! Traditional lead climbing is the most risky, and requires the highest level of skill and focus to accomplish safely. And that focus is what drives many climbers to climb. It offers a moment of purity and clarity not often found in life. As for trying to learn everything "properly;" there really is no such thing. There are a million different opinions on how to tie a knot, but if you find one system that works for you, then that is fine, no matter what the windbag at the gym tells you...just take his suggestion as "one more option." Ultimately, it is what YOU think that matters. Good luck!

billcoe makes an excellent point about self arrest. Most mountaineering classes cover this but how many of the students really come away feeling confident with it? Not many it always seems. Yet on a big mountain in steep terrain it is usually the first thing on my mind if I think I might fall. In high winds I carry my ax head in my hand with shaft across my body with the other end in my other hand, already in the self arrest position. And I have used this to self arrest many times on really steep terrain in high winds with a large pack.

Is there a hot tub?

Umm Dechristo... It was a joke...der! Must have gone over your head. Next time wear a helmet.

utah, You have a friend named Everest? Cool! I agree with that philosophy. From what I have seen in the northwest, umm how shall I say it without pissing off everyone..let's just say big egos may interfere with effective SAR. And a whole lot of beuarocracy. I'd rather my buddies did it so they don't sit around waiting for official approvals and all that governement crap that prevents someone from just plain going up and getting the job done.

I use the Garmin III+, but I have never used it for mountaineering. I have always wondered if you could navigate through total whiteout on a mountain. This model has downloadable maps. One of these maps showed a river going up and over a mountain ridge, so I am not sure how much I'd trust them. That was in Alaska however so those maps often aren't as refined. Has anyone used one to navigate in total whiteout? I know reception gets to be an issue when the atmosphere is dense from crummy weather. Can usually only get connected to a few satellites instead of 8 or more when it is sunny out.

Post deleted by jonmf76

Pins hold an important place in an alpine rack. I like to keep it simple and carry 3 or 4 blades/lost arrow style/small angles. This is in addition to full ice rack of Black Diamond 22cm & 17cm screws, a couple of russian titanium screws for rapping, and pickets or snow flukes, depending on route of course.

"Freedom of the Hills" is the bible of this sport. Period.

For anything more serious, I'd suggest a better stove. The MSR XG-K is pretty much a standard on high mountains. I would go where it is cold without it. Field maintainable, multi-fuel, a work horse. The other thing which may have already been mentioned is crevasse rescue gear- minimum 3 pulleys, at least one ascender (Jumar or otherwise), carabiners locking and non-locking.. A bivy sack Pickets and/or snow flukes Probe Avalanche Beacon Cell phone Satellite phone (if you can afford it: $750 at REI right now) shall I go on? Remember to never get over confident in the mountains.