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Maestro

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Everything posted by Maestro

  1. Hmmm, I tried to confirm twice and it came back both times. Maybe I've got cooties or something. I'll have to try again tomorrow. Meantime, what did he say?
  2. So did I, but I got a reply asking me to verify my e-mail address and when I tried to do that, it was refused and bounced back. Did anyone else have this problem? I don't think the City of Anacortes wants to hear from us!
  3. Ditto that. We're going there the week of Thanksgiving and got a rental car lined up from Payless for 5 days at $74 total. Got a good deal on air fare too!
  4. It pointed out that his first-ever gym climb as a kid was 10b. One of those natural prodigies who starts out at an advanced level and never has to go through the learning curve. The Mozart of climbing!
  5. Trying to get a trip off the ground for late January and need some input if anyone can offer some. Waterguy mentioned Arizona. I've heard about Mt. Lemmon and it looks like a good option. Has anyone been there in January? Or any other good recommendations for late January? I've heard that J-tree is often cold and windy in January and Red Rocks the same plus sometimes wet. I know almost any place can be great or grim, and you never know what you're gonna get until you get there, but want to go with the best odds if I can find 'em.
  6. Has anyone actually climbed the rock variation that goatboy alluded to? How many pitches? What pro does it take? More time-consuming than struggling with the moat? I think I read somewhere that it goes at 5.6.
  7. It's been a while, but I'll try to remember the gist of it... Mosquitoes at Diamond Lake and on the trail were ravenous, so bring your bug juice. Follow the Mt. Thielsen Trail until it crosses the PCT and peters out. After that, you start heading up towards the summit horn. As you make your way up, you need to stay to the left. There is a big gully/valley off to the left and you want to stay fairly close to the edge. If you get too far to the right, it really prolongs the scree slog. The summit horn itself is about a hundred feet or less of fun class 3 (with maybe a little class 4) scrambling. You don't need a rope unless you aren't comfortable down-climbing and would rather rap. I think there are one or two technical routes on the other side, but I can't give you any beta about those.
  8. We saw your sign-in sheet at the ranger station when we stopped to sign in for Eldo, which we climbed Saturday afternoon. We heard those same sprinkles hitting our tents Sunday morning and were glad our climb had been done in Saturday's nice weather, but we thought about you guys. We didn't get the wind though! Glad to hear it cleared up and gave you a nice view.
  9. Maestro

    Other talents?

    Getting back to the topic at hand... I am an absolute genius at losing things!!
  10. When Mastrette and I climbed this route a couple months back, she led the last pitch and opted for that crack for her belay. There is no exposure or climbing moves above it, and we just walked the rest of the way to the top. Makes the most sense to me.
  11. The guy who took the ride is really low-key about it, as if it is no big deal. I had a climb planned with him later this month and I got this e-mail saying he had to bail because "I fell and hurt myself." Only later did I find out what kind of a fall it really was!
  12. I climbed the hogback route on Aug 26 a few years back. If conditions are the same as I encountered, here is what to expect: It's no big sweat until you get above the bergschrund, which by then is a huge gapping maw that you have to end-run on the left. Then the snow is deeply suncupped and littered with hundreds of rocks of all sizes, which tells you why it isn't so smart to climb up there at that time of year! The snow runs out a couple hundred feet from the summit and then it is a scree slog to the top. I have no plans to repeat that lapse of all sense. The rockfall potential is too big a risk. None came down on me that time, but I was just lucky!
  13. I gotta return to this spelling thing (collective groan!). Nobody has mentioned a glaring incongruity. The spelling in the poll is sub-third grade, but all the posts are well-written and--except for one "then" which slipped in--have almost impeccable spelling, as far as I could tell. Like you would expect from a Ph.D. Now who has a theory about that? Did minddoc have his second grade kid type up the poll??
  14. I lived in Albuquerque for many years and cut my teeth in the Sandias and other nearby areas. Thanks for the photos and memories!
  15. After all those legendary first ascents in virgin wilderness, Fred ought to feel very at home on dirty routes! AND...I can relate to his hearing problem cuz I've got it too (occupational hazard), but he's got a quarter-century on me!
  16. Ditto here. Just because the testimonial is there is no reason to boycott the book if it otherwise has good information. You don't have to read it unless you want to. And like someone said, tear it out if it offends you. So do you refuse to watch Seahawks games because Shaun Alexander does commercials for Casey Treat's church, or boycott the TV stations that run said commercials? Freedom of religion and freedom of the press are involved here. Now...my problem with that guidebook is that it doesn't have a usable map. The diagram of the trail system is very sketchy, not to scale, and doesn't show where the cliffs are in relation to it. This whole thread started because the various crags are so hard to find there!
  17. Many of the recommended climbs are in the North Cascades. If you liked the Elks, Crestones, and San Juans, then you'll love the North Cascades. What they lack in absolute altitude above sea level, they more than make up for in rugged terrain and wilderness ambiance. The approaches are longer, there is more snow/glacier travel, and the elevation gain is greater, but you should feel right at home.
  18. Actually...he went through the Mounties basic class, Tacoma branch.
  19. Thanks wcz! That's the one...howdja do that?
  20. If you take the mounties class with Everett or Tacoma, you'll get a better instructor to student ratio and get to know everyone better than in the Seattle mega-class. Then you can sign on to climbs with any branch.
  21. And don't show up on a motorcycle. Baxter State Park doesn't allow them. At least they didn't when I was there.
  22. OK, I tried to post a shot of cbs starting up party in your pants with weekend_climberz on belay, but I apparently don't know the drill so happy birthday anyway.
  23. Lets return to the title of this thread. Is when to bail taught in any class... Well, IMO yes and no. Yes, because in the basic climbing class taught by that organization that most people on this board love to hate, the priorities for a climb are stressed as 1)safety 2)fun, enjoyment 3)summit. No, because when to bail is so subjective that only experience can really teach it. MOO
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