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Favorite Climbing Trip


Peter_Puget

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What’s your favorite climbing trip and why?

 

Mine was one to sunny So. Cal. where we climbed the Vampire, Insomnia, Valhalla and I took a screamer on a funky pin on Etude. :eek: Fantastic climbs in the sun after a long winter! Just feeling warm clean rock would have made he trip a success but these routes made it stellar.

 

Checkin' airfares as I write......

 

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Stuart West Ridge - Good company, great granite. I learned alot about my own abilities and about team dynamics. The trip really helped solidify a good climbing partnership too.

 

The climb was so relaxing you could just enjoy being there instead of worrying about having to be somewhere else. Which is why we also learned a bit about how to plan better for an....unplanned bivy LOL.

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south of france, 1995 with the evil doctor (never had a more motivated partner)...4 weeks of fine food, wine, limestone and whippers...

 

gotta agree with kevbeenboned that the creek is pretty good too...

 

also, any trip to the NRG is pretty stellar also...

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My first climbing trip... this june down to yosemite. some semi-aquaintances invited me along, help split gas, and it grew my stoke for climbing. i read up on the knots i needed to know, munter, clove, stuff like that, reading on the ten hour drive down or whatever it is. learning multi-pitch, sleeping in staff backyards and hammocks, no bigwalls though, bluegrass at the gas station up in toulome (sp?), laughing at tourists on busses who were severly missing out, meeting famous climbers, shooting the shit with them, then finding out they were famous hardmen, trying to clean gear while totally pumped 600 feet higher than i had ever climbed before, a frog that jumped from the top of one climb when i toped out, pretty sure there was nowhere for him to land, general debauchery with king cobra, waking up at the base of el cap to a bottle of tequilla and drinking it while watching a youth group leader put kids up a climb after asking us how to tie a figure 8 (scary so we left after fixing him a rope) basically just loving the art of finger jamming! ha. the next week i bought a rope and sporty gear to get me and other n00b friends up at smith. not a bad way to start climbing...

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Summer of '95. We loaded up the Oldsmobile and drove 36 hours straight to the Tetons. We then proceeded to climb the Durrance Route on Symmetry only to summit and discover we were on Storm Point (one peak to the east)! After that we took note of things like route finding and then ticked off classics like Guide's Wall, Irene's Arete, the Durrance Route and the Owen Spalding. On the marathon drive back we bivied at the gates to Devil's Tower and at dawn ran up the Durrance Route and were back on the road by noon for another marathon drive back to the east coast. I was 20 and the mountains blew my mind. After I returned to the east coast I decided it wasn't for me and began planning to move.

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There was one summer that really sticks out for me. We started out in the Tetons and climbed a bunch of the classics on the Grand. Then myself and 3 friends drove up to the Canadian Rockies. We did a few things but the biggest standout were 2 climbs we started by climbing the N face of Edith Cavell then we all drove to Robson and climbed the Wishbone arete.

 

It was a great summer unfortunately right after that I had to drive back to Seattle and pack up for going back to college.

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My friends Tony and Mark and I climbed Liberty Ridge as an overnighter from White River in the early eighties. At Thumb Rock bivy we met Tom Hornbein and his son Bob ...with whom I later became friends while attending the Evergreen State College. A fierce storm hit the mountain just as we topped out on Liberty Cap, and we clawed our way down the Edmonds Glacier. Epic overnighter!

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My favorite climbing trip is the climbing trip during which I had the most fun...

 

So, that might have to make it a combination of the last nine thanksgivings in a row, which we have spent with a small core of great friends at climbing areas around the SW (J Tree for 7 of the 9, red rocks once, and cochise once). We deep fry wings and turkeys, drink a lot of tecate, and climb whatever's warm and sunny...so fun...can't wait for J Tree next November!!!

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My favorite trip was late Oct. 2003

My brother, a friend, and I hiked up to Glacier Lake '9300, 30 min south of Red Lodge, MT, on the Beartooth Plateau. Stayed on a lil island in the middle of the lake 5 freezing nights, and hiked all over the plateau, Goat lake, Mary lake, Heart lake, and numerous unnamed lakes. Hiked to grasshopper glacier up to the top of Beartooth Plateau '12000 and got some AWESOME pics of Granite Pk, the only mtn higher than us!

If you have a few hrs to kill and your near Yellowstone NP, head out to Cooke City and then towards Red lodge. At the bottom of the Beartooth Hwy, on the MT side, theres a lil road that goes to a bunch of NPS campgrounds, Rock Creek, go all the way to the end of that road and be ready for an advanced hiker hike! BRING PROVISIONS!

 

Any one got a really good Glacial hikes near Mt. Hood or Jefferson?

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July, 1983

 

After a week at Smith Rocks, I followed my much more experienced partner in an ascent of Stein's Pillar, a 4 pitch 5.10+ route that totally pushed my limits. A perfect day, especially when I read the meager cairn log that included just about every famous climber I'd heard of. At that time the log recorded less than a dozen ascents, and half of those up the aid route on the other side. I felt like I had really acomplished something, even though I whimpered at the end of my lead's rope most of the way up.

 

news_steins.jpg

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I think it was 03 or 04, I spent a long 3 weekish trip in the PNW.

 

I started by getting passed off from Icegirl, who picked me up at the airport, to Klenke-who took me to vantage? I cant remember!

 

Later that evening, Kurt nabbed me and we headed out to Lworth for the rope up a few days early. We climbed Outer Space, in which I did one of the sweetest leads thus far in my short climbing career. It was a picture perfect day. I also saw goats up close for the first time. Damn, they are cute but as you all know, not shy at all! I also had a chance to do some other leads and some rockin roof climb.

 

From there I scooted off with Uncle Tricky. We did some craggin' next to OB. Fun face climbing, which actually made me feel like I was good or something. HA! :o We also did a route on SEWS - dont remember the route, but it had 2 nice roofs. I was quite impressed with Patrick's leads. For myself, I actually had my first moment of panic while on lead due to exposure. Dinking around trying to find a piece, I wound up putting in like 3 within 5ft. The only one that was "bomber" I guess I didnt clip! DOH! :eek: Thankfully patrick didnt say anything until after the pitch.

 

We also did some 12 pitch? sport route around mazama. We didnt finish due to incoming weather. It was a sweet climb and much more relaxing to clip bolts for once.

 

Off to Smith for Love Fest. Though I didnt get so much time there, as always I enjoyed a number of climbs in the gorge. I ropegunned fern on "whereever I may roam", which was a sweet accomplishment for me to take charge of an entire climb.

 

Fern swept me off to vancouver from there. No heater in her car made for a frigid trip. I got my first taste of squamish rock and some visiting with dru and snoboy. I also had my introduction to IKEA, where we had a cheap breakfast one morning. The canadians loved my request to watch the presidential debates at the brewpub. It pretty much chased them all out the door laughing. I look forward to getting back up there.

 

I have a lot of good memories from other trips to the PNW. By far one of my favorite places to visit, and some of my favorite people to climb with.

 

:brew: to those of you who have always supplied lots of laughs, guidance, and floors to crash on. :brew: To those of you who havent - consider yourselves LUCKY! :lmao:

 

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shishapangma sw face , tibet.

5 of us with a cook an aid, no guide, only team on that side. with 6000ft of couloir waiting. no route/camp beta, no fixed ropes. 100mph winds. walking over and over past alex lowe's demise point.. and the powerful and deep himal just crushing manhood into your soul...... aaaaaahhhh.

 

 

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January - May of '99, I had just graduated college the previous spring and worked three jobs during the summer out in Jackson to save for a plane ticket and travel expenses to climb and travel throughout S.A. for 6 months. Got to climb Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, El Cayembe, sport climbing in Ecuador near the town of Banos, climbing Huyana Potosi, and Aconcagua. We topped it off with some cragging in Bariloche, and trekking and fly-fishing through Los Glacieres National Park, hanging out with Steve Schneider, eating salmon and drinking wine after his first ascent of Galazo on the Central Torres del Paine, visits to basecamps of Fitzroy and Cerro Torre, and hitchhiking the Caraterra Astral in search of grande trucha.........Ah, to have that lifestyle again!

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