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Posted

 

My GF and I are headed east this weekend for about two weeks.

 

Where should we go? What should we climb? What non-climbing things should we do?

 

I've been to COR twice and the Tetons once. She has been to neither.

 

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Posted

Wind Rivers, WY. Cirque of Towers is one popular destination (high concentration of good lines incl. two [easy] North American Classic lines).

Devils Tower, WY. So much of it & so close together.

Sawtooths, ID. Elephants Perch formation has many good lines and is easy to access. Much backcountry rock too.

Posted

Sounds like the Big Sandy Road (access to Cirque of Towers) is not open yet. Any idea when it usually opens?

 

John Frieh tells me that we might be early for the Elephant's Perch area as well. Too much snow. How early have ya'll climbed there?

 

As for Vedauwoo, I don't think the GF would enjoy runout, sandbagged, off-width climbing. And if she would, I'd probably come up with some other excuse to avoid having to go there and lead stuff.

 

Devil's Tower might be cool but is a long drive.

 

Hey MCash, can you give me a link to more info on "Chimney" in N. ID? I've never heard of it.

Posted

That's cool that you have that much time to spend somewhere.

 

I guess I'd head to the Tetons, but that's the only place out that way I've been blush.gif. Glancing through the Ortenburger Book, there has to be some stuff to do that's pretty chill. I think my pal said that he went up to do the Teewinot via the easy route with his girlfriend, and also, he took her up the Middle Teton, I believe.

 

Then you have Yellowstone, of course. And, The Bunnery in Jackson has great breakfast. The brewpub left something to be desired, though. frown.gif

Posted

The GF can follow 5.10, so it doesn't have to be too "chill".

 

She is CORE, yo.

 

However, it does have to be OMG-Blow-your-hair-back awesome climbing though.

Posted

Nah, let the recommendations fly!

 

Quality is quality.

 

5.6 can be thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif too.

 

Edit: Case in point - the East ridge of Wolfshead (III, 5.6) looks awesome:

 

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Posted
Can she climb a full 30 meters?

 

Yes, she's done Minnesotan multi-pitch-style clambering before.

 

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I did a route called "Caveat Emptor" (a Jim Beyer route) up in Death Canyon in the Tetons, that I would recomend. It wasn't alpine and didn't go to a summit (but that might be better considering the time of year), but was super good crack climbing - I'd say physical 10a, about Grade III+. With the approach is more or less a days outing. There was also a popular 5.9 next door which is also supposed to be good, but I can't remember what its called. Caveat Emptor was one of the funner routes of that type I've done.

Posted

Jackson Hole is to be avoided if possible during the height of tourist season. Definitely hit the Winds in addition to the Tetons, if the roads are passable. May be out of the way, but the drive up to Beartooth Pass is spectacular. Not sure if it would be open yet, either, it goes up to around 11,000' I think.

Posted

If what you want is OMG-blow-your-hair-back awesome climbing I'd say go to the Winds. Wolf's Head is indeed super fun and there are endless beautiful lines there. Watch out for the afternoon thunderstorms though; they might blow your hair back for real.

Posted

John Frieh tells me that we might be early for the Elephant's Perch area as well. Too much snow. How early have ya'll climbed there?

The earliest I've been up there was 4th of July in 04 (Mounties Route). Might want to give Finger Of Fate a shot (need high clearance to get in or you'll need to do some painful additional 5mile approaching) - at most you'll waste a day and you'll have a good feel for conditions in the range. If you go to www.idahosummits.com, the guy has links to various webcams in ID including one in Stanley pointed at the SAwtooths. John's posted a ton of topos for SAwtooths here and there's more beta on summitpost:

http://www.summitpost.org/area/range/171128/sawtooth-range.html

 

Not sure about Big Sandy TH. IF you get in, E. Ridge of Wolfshead really is a classic climb. Much of it is 4th class but still memorable. NE Face of Pingora felt kinda overhyped in my opinion but worth doing once you get in there. The guidebook topo was a bit off (shoot me pm if interested, I'll give you more details). NE Face of Warbonnet (5.7, though it looks good from below) was a chossy adventure climb. Feather Traverse (5.10) looks better though.

 

DT will be scorching hot but probably OK if you stick to the shade. Some classic lines (incl. El Matador) are closed I think till July??

Posted

How much of a climber is she? You asked about non-climbing things and maybe you'd want to go somewhere that is not a climbing destination and has less potential for Mr. Fox to be distracted by alluring pieces of stone. Consider the Steens Mountain, Malheur, Alvord Desert, and Denio Nevada area for some wild country, hot springs, exotic desert and birds, etc.

 

Many years ago, I used to take a girlfriend on trips like this and she did pretty well, managing to climb the Grand Teton and Snowpatch Spire and Athabaska, but the fact is she later told me she was scared much of the time and really didn't like it. Our hiking trip to the Grand Canyon was more of something she actually enjoyed.

 

My wife has climbed Liberty Bell and camped in a snowcave when it was -20c outside, but she'd really rather do something other than be cold and scared on the weekends. Go figure.

Posted

Sawtooths Update:

 

Finger 1st pitch is still wet/snowy/ice... should be good to go by July.

 

Elephant's Perch/Warbonnet/all that other stuff accessed via Redfish Lake: east - south facing routes are in and ready to go however the river crossing right now is spicy (dangerous) as the log is washed out and the river is up... plan on getting wet.

 

No one has been in this year though 2 kids are headed in this weekend... should have an update by next week.

 

Bottom line: hit the sawtooths on the way back. If you truly want to enjoy the routes get them when they are in... no need to force it.

 

And afternoon buildup is a common occurrence out there... alpine starts are in your best interests.

 

PM or call me you have other questions or need a topo.

Posted

If you find yourself passing thru Idaho Falls consider eating Mexican food at Morenita's and sipping on a beer (or glass of wine) at Marcellars.

 

Fyi, Salt Lake is just a few hours out of your way and there's more granite here than you could climb in a decade. I'd even consider lending you my guidebooks.

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