Psychological Cascade Routes

[scottgg]

Ok, what about psychologically challenging Cascade routes? It seems some of the more hyped hard climbs are well within most of our technical range, but due to the mysterious aurora (whether deserved or not) they receive few ascents.

 

Last week I saw two parties bail off saber ledge on Castle Rock, after deciding against the canary route. After seeing both parties climb the first pitch (harder) I know the intimidating pitch was within their technical reach.

 

What are some other technically moderate routes with a big psyche-out factor?

[catbirdseat]

For its grade, Saber is intimidating. A lot of new leaders bail off of it. Yes it's only 5.4 or whatever, but judging from the bootie you get off of it, the proof is there.

[still_climbin]

Again for its grade, Midway is also intimidating with lots of exposure and the classic step-accross.

[mattp]

The last pitch of Aries at Index has a pretty intimidating 5.8 chimney move out around a roof. Some lower portions of the route are just plain hard for the grade more than they are intimidating per se.

[mattp]

As to "aura," I think the Curtis Ridge route on Mount Rainier sees few ascents in part because of the fact that there was at least one bad accident there many years ago. I've been told it is a good route, though.

 

Also, the 5.9 off-width on Backbone Ridge seems to deter parties who are plenty capable of climbing it.

[scott_harpell]

Cadaver Gap on Rainier is another easy one that probably just doesn't get done anymore because of the major accident back when it was guided really frequently.

[genepires]

Pickets....but what the heck do I know about them since I have never been in there.

[Blake]

MisterE described Sagitarius to me in the following way on our drive to index:

 

5.10a... and it's the hardest .10c climb you'll find. Should be called Sagi-Scary-ous.

 

That had a psychological effect on me.

[dan_forester]

the most psychological cascade route is the one scaring the most climbers

[G-spotter]

any route without a cc.com TR is harder, then it gets easier the more TRs there are for it. Mox East Face won't ever have the psych factor of the Russian Route.

[ivan]

johannesburg - not hard but mean and grungy and not easy to get away from once yer wick's wet

[layton]

any route without a cc.com TR is harder, then it gets easier the more TRs there are for it. Mox East Face won't ever have the psych factor of the Russian Route.

 

Which Russian route?

[Gary_Yngve]

MisterE described Sagitarius to me in the following way on our drive to index:

 

5.10a... and it's the hardest .10c climb you'll find. Should be called Sagi-Scary-ous.

 

That had a psychological effect on me.

 

I don't understand all the hype that Saggitarius gets. It's a little burly, but not that hard technically. And the pro is great for the 10a lieback up top.

 

Now the top part of the approach pitch to Thin Fingers, that thin crack above the ledge, that's spooky because rope-stretch will likely make you hit the ledge.

 

G-M p3 feels more awkward to me than Saggitarius.

[G-spotter]

any route without a cc.com TR is harder, then it gets easier the more TRs there are for it. Mox East Face won't ever have the psych factor of the Russian Route.

 

Which Russian route?

 

either one of them.

[EWolfe]

any route without a cc.com TR is harder, then it gets easier the more TRs there are for it. Mox East Face won't ever have the psych factor of the Russian Route.

 

Check yoself, G. You're leaking weaksauce.

[layton]

i dunno the one on inspiration wasn't sooooo bad.

[G-spotter]

see! you should have been all reticent and shit!

[MisterMo]

johannesburg - not hard but mean and grungy and not easy to get away from once yer wick's wet

 

Second that. Also Middle Peak of Index for the same reasons.

[wayne]

Pickets aren't so bad, The routes that jacked me the most: CBR,Bear, Theilsen, the wrong way, Logan nw ridge,and Colonial.

[EWolfe]

How about the one alpine peak that a famous tick-list climber didn't climb (for posterity), and took Mike 4? 5? tries?

 

Saggitarius: Thanks, Blake. Anyone who wishes to call themselves a 5.10 trad climber should be able to do this benchmark climb, to the second anchors. Apparently, easily!

To say it is not hard and psychologically challenging, even to an experienced climber, is a

 

That is a person who has lost their beginnings, and probably, the true path that Dean has shown us.

[G-spotter]

here is a route that has probably not been climbed since 1974:

 

South Hozomeen, North Ridge

 

"It's only 5.4"

[layton]

How about the one alpine peak that a famous tick-list climber didn't climb (for posterity), and took Mike 4? 5? tries?

 

actually, i went on my 6th attempt, but most of em weren't my fault! also, not so bad.

[JoshK]

Whatcha talking about willis? Nutsack tower??

 

Also, it isn't even just climbes - there are some approaches that people avoid, probably due to them being hyped as so god awful.

[DirtyHarry]

Hyperspace on Snow Crick.

 

No, actually, that IS hard!

[Blake]

I've heard E. Ridge of buckner is really really frightening, and it looks like such an ascetic line from Park Creek Pass. The FA was circa 1939 by a female climber as well...