Dru Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by fern: quote:Originally posted by Dru: I think Fern still wants to drag me up it as a 1 day trip this weekend but we will see. we will see ... this is what they call chestbeating in advance. now everyone will laugh when we fail. It would be cool to have you along Ray , ... if we go. Your other comment is inaccurate. I am already practicing my evisceration skills for when we end up doing the forced bivi and I have to cut open a goat and crawl inside it to stay warm. SINCE it sounds like Fern is gonna kick me if I suggest spooning Maybe Ray will spoon with me. Or show me the secret 1954 beckey cache of tennis shoes and Sterno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 No spooning Drul you can cut open a goat or just die from frostbite. Day climb is easier in a lot of ways. Dont carry squat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: No spooning Drul you can cut open a goat or just die from frostbite. Day climb is easier in a lot of ways. Dont carry squat 3 nuts, 2 hexes, down jacket, pipe, bud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COL._Von_Spanker Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Jim: If you're talking about the crack throught the face left of the ridge that goes through black lichen I thought it was a stiff 5.8, but I lack finesse on cracks. Are you referring to the "first pitch" If so, everyone free'd it, though it was a little tricky with a rope in one hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: No spooning Drul you can cut open a goat or just die from frostbite. Day climb is easier in a lot of ways. Dont carry squat 3 nuts, 2 hexes, down jacket, pipe, bud. Something like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 It was "Golden Week" in the Enchantments. This is the name Peg and Bill Stark gave to their annual pilgramage every first week of October for over thirty years. They didn't give up this tradition until they reached about age eighty -- or did they? Were there some old folks camped on a rock above the N. shore of Lake Viviane? Thanks for the pictures... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COL._Von_Spanker Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Jim: If you're talking about the crack throught the face left of the ridge that goes through black lichen I thought it was a stiff 5.8, but I lack finesse on cracks. Are you referring to the "first pitch" If so, everyone free'd it, though it was a little tricky with a rope in one hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COL._Von_Spanker Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 fuckin' back button bring two ropes for the rappel, it'll help. But I had to rap to the end f my rope, untie the shoes that tied to them to get it down with all the wind, and then drop off since they didn't reach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 I can't say I would bring 2 ropes for rappels. Nor would I recommend carrying the extra stuff in there. It sounds like you hit some wind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Schuldt Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 Hey Scott did you get higher than the summit? If so, good. Nice TR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted October 8, 2002 Author Share Posted October 8, 2002 quote: Are you referring to the "first pitch" If so, everyone free'd it, though it was a little tricky with a rope in one hand.Not the first pitch, plus we took the right side version of that pitch that gained the ridgeline below the 5.7 slab pitch. We were able to complete the climb in 3 pitches. We did not take the direct 5.8 leg eating crack to the summit as I watched someone in front of us do it and it looked totally awkward. The 5.4 chimney that was around the corner on the top was easy but not too exposed, only had to put in 2 pieces on that last pitch, it was just too much fun. We started that pitch in the hand crack that had the blue runner in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COL._Von_Spanker Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I can't say I would bring 2 ropes for rappels. Nor would I recommend carrying the extra stuff in there. It sounds like you hit some wind. Twin ropes are the answer. it's easier to split up anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 Hey whatever man. I have climbed that peak a few times. Everyone has their own ideas. Most of the times alternate anchors are found on ledges and you can walk around safely anyhow. I have never used more than one rope. One time I used a single 30 meter line too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COL._Von_Spanker Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 Yer right CPT. It' not necessary and there are plenty of anchors. It just seemed to go faster, and I'm used to a twin system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 Right on Col. (saluting) Less rope to manage could be deemed as quicker too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COL._Von_Spanker Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Right on Col. (saluting) Less rope to manage could be deemed as quicker too. Yeah, Clove hitching twins in a regular locker is a bitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 Yeah, I'll second what Ivan said...the car-to-car made it a challenging day in terms of effort required, but the climb itself is not very difficult at all. I thought the final chimney was the most difficult by far, and from everybody's posts, it seems we did some sort of 5.8 variation chimney instead of an easier 5.5 or 5.6 one. In any event, I only saw the one chimney, so that made the decision easy. Also, I would definitely recommend *against* bringing 2 ropes. The north side rappel is actually quite blocky and we got the rope stuck once even with just a single. I think the knot would be a huge liability. If I did the WR Prusik again I would take a light 50m half rope. I'm pretty sure 50m would reach all the repells and for the 2 spots where Ivan and I belayed you could double the rope as they aren't long at all. That's just my opinion, so YMMV. -josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 Yeah camp at your car or climb it in a day cuz that place is ugly to camp at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 Between attacks of goats thirsty for your pee, and s trying to get your it is a wonder campers ever get to sleep up there at all!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 Greg Crouch puts a pretty picture on the last page of the new rock and ice and now even boulderers wil be hikin pads up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted October 8, 2002 Author Share Posted October 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by texplorer: Greg Crouch puts a pretty picture on the last page of the new rock and ice and now even boulderers wil be hikin pads up there. There seemed to be so many boulder problems up there on some of those boulders just right off the trails, I'd wouldnt be surprised if there were just a ton of classic problems up there. Wont catch me hauling anything less than I have to up that evil snow creek trail But, the boulders at the bottom of Aasgard Pass have some potential eh? Thanks for the biner again Tex! my friend appreciates it watch out for cougars smokin in the hut! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kellyclimbsnow Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 Tell anybody to "take a number" on Prusik while you were in the Enchantments Scotty? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 Yeah I told the guide to. Does it matter? He let us pass without issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Chips Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 Yes the area is quite beauty but when one cannot obtaina permit he must make a day of it. If I may chestbeat here, I have also climbed the west ridge and returned to my truck in about 8 hours. I was not 'going for time' either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gapertimmy Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 thanks for the great tr and photos, granite looks nice, but not quite as nice as smiffy tuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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