Mos_Chillin Posted March 14, 2006 Posted March 14, 2006 With his new route " coup de grace", 5.15a, he has joined Chris Sharma and Tommy Caldwell in breaking the new barrier. Even though he isn't officially an "American" anymore.... Quote
chirp Posted March 14, 2006 Posted March 14, 2006 Umm you dont provide some gratifying linkage...what did he free? Givlers crack left wall? I need details!!! Quote
G-spotter Posted March 14, 2006 Posted March 14, 2006 i thought the American Trio was Outer Space, da Toof and Disappointment Cleaver? Quote
chirp Posted March 14, 2006 Posted March 14, 2006 ...and since when are actual numbers very impressive? I thought it was all about being hep and vague? ...dude yeah I climbed that and it was like heinous and ethereal and shit... What ever happened to Refiners Fire?, did he or didn't Louie Anderson do the route?? Dammit, am I out of the loop or what? Quote
Mos_Chillin Posted March 14, 2006 Author Posted March 14, 2006 Umm you dont provide some gratifying linkage...what did he free? Givlers crack left wall? I need details!!! Awright, here's what I got for the google-challenged There's also a writeup at RC.com Quote
larrythellama Posted March 14, 2006 Posted March 14, 2006 this happend in november. why is it big news now? Quote
DirtyHarry Posted March 14, 2006 Posted March 14, 2006 Hey did you hear Colin and Mark did the first winter ascent of the full north ridge of Stuart?? Quote
G-spotter Posted March 14, 2006 Posted March 14, 2006 Well dude Micah and Topher told me they just set up the SWEEEEETEST slackline with Dean and were like, playing hacky sack and juggling on it. That's way more trad and impressive than any sport climb! Quote
layton Posted March 14, 2006 Posted March 14, 2006 Well dude Micah and Topher told me they just set up the SWEEEEETEST slackline with Dean and were like, playing hacky sack and juggling on it. That's way more trad and impressive than any sport climb! Quote
Johnny_Tuff Posted March 14, 2006 Posted March 14, 2006 No wonder you F-ing losers are mystified by the impenetrable 5.9 ceiling. Holy shit--wake up and smell the progress! Quote
larrythellama Posted March 14, 2006 Posted March 14, 2006 jt how is that progress? 5.15 does not really change climbing for like 99% of climbers. the way it is described on that website that is linked it sounds like a boulder problem and not a route....kinda dumb to mix the grading like that. Quote
mountainmatt Posted March 14, 2006 Posted March 14, 2006 Awright, here's what I got for the google-challenged There's also a writeup at RC.com The clips of that route are sick! Quote
dalius Posted March 14, 2006 Posted March 14, 2006 The route starts with 11 moves at V12/13, goes directly, with no rests into a 15 move V11 section.... blah blah blah Yeah, what's up with calling this "5.15" a V12/13, etc? Is this a highball boulder problem? Why is it called a route? Quote
G-spotter Posted March 14, 2006 Posted March 14, 2006 translation for chuffers: The route is a 14d to a 14c to a 14a to a 14c Quote
DirtyHarry Posted March 14, 2006 Posted March 14, 2006 And what's up with that Jason Kiehl dude, who claims he solos 5.13? Look at the picture, its just a long boulder prob with a bunch of hippies and 20 crash mattresses waiting to catch him if he falls. Quote
larrythellama Posted March 14, 2006 Posted March 14, 2006 harry, there are bolts on that 5.13 route...all 4 of them. gnar! Quote
DirtyHarry Posted March 14, 2006 Posted March 14, 2006 But for midgets its the equivalent of 60 mtrs Quote
billcoe Posted March 14, 2006 Posted March 14, 2006 I've never gotten up 5.13 no hangs or falls, let alone 5.14, where the holds are almost invisible. The strength to weight ratio on these folks like Caldwell, Sharma, Rodden, Keih...must be incredible. Pretty impressive to me, but you're still OK ..........for a Llama. Quote
RuMR Posted March 14, 2006 Posted March 14, 2006 The route starts with 11 moves at V12/13, goes directly, with no rests into a 15 move V11 section.... blah blah blah Yeah, what's up with calling this "5.15" a V12/13, etc? Is this a highball boulder problem? Why is it called a route? its called a "route" because its 80 feet long... the V nomenclature is used to describe the difficulties of the moves themselves...not to imply the route is a boulder problem...duh Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted March 14, 2006 Posted March 14, 2006 Somebody ought to put a new route up on the backside of like Kangeroo Temple and rate it 5.16 and see how many of those guys fly up here and make the trod to try it out. Quote
dalius Posted March 15, 2006 Posted March 15, 2006 ...the V nomenclature is used to describe the difficulties of the moves themselves...not to imply the route is a boulder problem...duh I still don't get the mixing of grading. Why not just call them 14d 14c moves? Why go to the bouldering rating system. It's the first time I've ever seen that. You don't see routes on insert rock wall here rated with sections of V9 followed by 10 feet of V12 blah blada blah... Quote
G-spotter Posted March 15, 2006 Posted March 15, 2006 it's the first time you've seen it, so it must be wrong? more like you don't get out much. it's a common method of describing the difficulty of cruxes. Quote
Johnny_Tuff Posted March 15, 2006 Posted March 15, 2006 The route starts with 11 moves at V12/13, goes directly, with no rests into a 15 move V11 section.... blah blah blah Yeah, what's up with calling this "5.15" a V12/13, etc? Is this a highball boulder problem? Why is it called a route? Because it's 80 feet tall, genius. Quote
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